Evinrude gas tank leak normal? (pic inside)

[tondss]

o the housing for my tank is leaking the motor hasn't been running correctly due to gas or spark. So I'm eliminating one thing at at time. The flat head is pointing where the air will seap out when squeezing the bulb.

 

[gm280]

tondss, something doesn't look right there. Something looks odd with that connection. But not that familiar with your tank connections, lets see if other will chime in here and pin point the problem...

 

[F_R]

See the brass washer around the pin? Behind that brass washer is an o-ring. The o-ring is leaking. To get at it, pop out the welsh plug on the opposite side of the connector, and pull out the pin & spring. Now stick a punch in the brass washer and rock it back and forth to remove the washer. Now you can replace the o-ring and put everything back together. You will need an o-ring, and a new welsh plug. The brass washer is held in by staking with a hammer & screwdriver.

Note: There are two sizes of the o-ring, according to year. Yours looks like the newer version from the picture, but I can't tell for sure. There also is an o-ring around the pin's valve seat, which you might as well order also.

EDIT: O-ring, pin is 307858. o-ring, valve seat is 305857, welsh (core) plug is 305243

EDIT, EDIT: Pretty sure you have the newer version (307858)

EDIT, EDIT, EDIT: Yeah after looking at it awhile, it is the newer version.

 

[racerone]

Picked up the parts to repair these QUALITY tanks one time.--Dealer said " why are you buying these parts ? , I just sell people a new plastic tank "---Did the repair many , many times in the late sixties.--You can tell when tank needs repair as one pin will stick out further than the other.

 

[Silvertip]

Judging by the malformation of the screwdriver slots in the housing mounting screws, this will not be the first time this unit has been apart and reassembled by someone with a bit much force on the screws.

 

[racerone]

Most folks think that it is the gasket that is leaking , hence the extra effort on the screws.

 

[rolmops]

When air comes leaking out of the tank when you squeeze the bulb in the fuel line,it is a sign that you have the fuel line connected in backward fashion, because squeezing the ball should increase pressure towards the engine and suck fuel away from the tank. Air leaking out over there happens when the tank is over pressurized like when it is laying in the sun.
Unless this is a pre 1959 pressure tank in which case I am completely off base

 

[racerone]

When you connect the hose you push in the 2 pins.----One is a valve that lets air in ( vent ) and one lets fuel out.--------A quality tank used in the 1960's and 70's ----- Far better quality than the plastic ones sold today.

 

[Chinewalker]

I have rebuilt many of those tanks in recent years as the o-rings don't always play nice with the ethanol gas. Once repaired, the tanks work very well. Costs about $10 and takes about 15 minutes. Well worth the effort!

 

[tondss]

Thanks for all the help guy it's so amazing how much you guys help people out! I found a new omc housing unit for 20 bucks on Ebay. Would it be easier to just purchase that?

 

[tondss]

See the brass washer around the pin? Behind that brass washer is an o-ring. The o-ring is leaking. To get at it, pop out the welsh plug on the opposite side of the connector, and pull out the pin & spring. Now stick a punch in the brass washer and rock it back and forth to remove the washer. Now you can replace the o-ring and put everything back together. You will need an o-ring, and a new welsh plug. The brass washer is held in by staking with a hammer & screwdriver.

Note: There are two sizes of the o-ring, according to year. Yours looks like the newer version from the picture, but I can't tell for sure. There also is an o-ring around the pin's valve seat, which you might as well order also.

EDIT: O-ring, pin is 307858. o-ring, valve seat is 305857, welsh (core) plug is 305243

EDIT, EDIT: Pretty sure you have the newer version (307858)

EDIT, EDIT, EDIT: Yeah after looking at it awhile, it is the newer version.

I'm going to attempt this for fun. If I can't get it I will purchase the new OMC housing.

crud. I might have messed something up. I got the welsh plug out . Pulled the pin and spring. Looked inside it looks like there are 2 orings inside . However I tried popping the brass washer out from the Outside in because it looks like it wouldn't go from the inside to out. There were little metal divits holding it into place.

 

[tondss]

When you connect the hose you push in the 2 pins.----One is a valve that lets air in ( vent ) and one lets fuel out.--------A quality tank used in the 1960's and 70's ----- Far better quality than the plastic ones sold today.

OK I might have messed up then :/. Gas was only coming out and making the sucking noise when I would LET GO after squeezing the bulb. Maybe the tank was ok? And on the other hand maybe gas isn't supposed to leak at all? Because it was leaking. We went to high altitude yesterday and by the time I got back I could see gas on the tank.

 

[F_R]

Re-read my instructions. Stick a punch in the brass washer and rock it out. Yes, the little "divits" are holding it in. You will create new "divits" when you re-stake it.

 

[F_R]

OK I might have messed up then :/. Gas was only coming out and making the sucking noise when I would LET GO after squeezing the bulb. Maybe the tank was ok? And on the other hand maybe gas isn't supposed to leak at all? Because it was leaking. We went to high altitude yesterday and by the time I got back I could see gas on the tank.

The squishy-squishy sound you get along with leaking gas when you work the bulb mean that either the fuel connector is bad, or the little o-ring we've been talking about is the problem. You pointed to the little o-ring with your screwdriver----a very common leakage point, especially with an old tank. In any case, no it isn't supposed to be leaking.

 

[tondss]

Re-read my instructions. Stick a punch in the brass washer and rock it out. Yes, the little "divits" are holding it in. You will create new "divits" when you re-stake it.

Ok. So am I sticking the punch in from the inside where the orings are and rocking it out to the out side or rocking it in to the inside past the orings? Sorry I'm not the most savy at do mechanics.

 

[tondss]

Also is there a part # for the brass washer because I trashed it a little trying to punch it out. towards the inside of the orings. Opps. I should have reread the instructions

 

[F_R]

Ok. So am I sticking the punch in from the inside where the orings are and rocking it out to the out side or rocking it in to the inside past the orings? Sorry I'm not the most savy at do mechanics.

Standing on the outside of the tank, stick the punch in the washer and rock it back and forth. Or do you now have it out? Part number is 307857, called a "retainer".

 

[tondss]

I don't have it out. I didn't wanna mess anything up in the mean time i was cleaning the carb of my 6hp johnson. I have 2 outboards an 18 and a 6hp. I couldn't believe how high it's reving now!! Its running amazing! However, It's almost scary like it's going to blow up. Is it possible to tighted the high speed idle bolt ( no needle) to tight making it rev super high? Also I went ahead and ordered a whole new housing for the gas tank. Maybe I'll repair this housing and have it as back up.

 

[F_R]

OK, sorry but I gotta ask is it in the water and in gear? And shear pin not broken?

 

[tondss]

OK, sorry but I gotta ask is it in the water and in gear? And shear pin not broken?

I'm not to sure where the shear pin is located. Yes I have it in a 50 gallon drum. I was reving it in neutral. Not in gear. Also I did notice after there is a high speed needle which I did not remove lucky I cleaned it all out real nice. Only removed the bolt.