18hp Johnson fuel issue? (video inside)

[tondss]

OK the carb has been cleaned. The fuel pump is pumping fuel. The idle screw is one turn out the high speed screw is 2 turns out. I have made minor adjustments to the screws to help it run better. But for the life of me I can't get this motor to run right. Please see the video I made. https://youtu.be/OQZfd83HhYc

 

[ryanorillia]

from things i've read on here the air leakage on the fuel line could be causing problems? does the primer bulb stay hard when it's running?

 

[racerone]

Something is wrong here.----Did not look at your video.----------The upper needle is the LOW SPEED mixture and is to be out about a turn and a half.----------The lower needle is the HIGH SPEED mixture and should be out about a little less than one turn.------------Those settings allow the motor to start and these needles MUST be adjusted once motor is on a boat.---Have you looked for spark on both leads ?-------Good spark must jump a gap of 1/4
with ease.

 

[tondss]

from things i've read on here the air leakage on the fuel line could be causing problems? does the primer bulb stay hard when it's running?

The primer bulb is not hard at all. Pretty squishy really. That's what I'm thinking to. Two weeks ago I had bought a new tank from walmart. It didn't make any difference :/

 

[tondss]

Something is wrong here.----Did not look at your video.----------The upper needle is the LOW SPEED mixture and is to be out about a turn and a half.----------The lower needle is the HIGH SPEED mixture and should be out about a little less than one turn.------------Those settings allow the motor to start and these needles MUST be adjusted once motor is on a boat.---Have you looked for spark on both leads ?-------Good spark must jump a gap of 1/4
with ease.

@raceron... actually i believe the high speed needle is about one turn out. I thought that might be a a little lean but i guess not. If i turn the idle screw out more then one turn it runs to fat and wants to die. I recommend watching the video it might help us figure this out. Has great spark as i shocked my self really good on both cylinders lol Thanks guys!

 

[tondss]

I had the motor running pretty good at the lake just doesn't wanna idle right. Now it's not running to good at all even in neutral with the gas turned to WOT.

 

[racerone]

Not sure why folks do not understand the importance of answering questions.-----I ask once more.-----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more ????

 

[tondss]

Not sure why folks do not understand the importance of answering questions.-----I ask once more.-----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more ????

Sorry I must have looked over this. I will go buy a sparkplug tester today if I can! If not I'll amazon it! I guess that tool is good to have lol.

 

[geoffwga1]

You don't need to rush out and buy a spark tester,you can make one out of a bit of wire and 2 nails banged into a piece of wood,just bend the nails to set the gap.One side to the plug lead the other to motor ground.
Test your primer bulb by disconnecting the line from the motor connection and see if it gets hard then,If not, something wrong with fuel line/bulb setup.
Check the packing on the low speed needle particularly,,Tighten packing nut and/or replace packing if needed.As R1 said,low speed needle,close and open 1 1/2 turns.High speed close and open 1/2 turn,tweak on lake in 1/8 turn increments.

 

[F_R]

The fuel pump obviously is working fine. The glass bowl is SUPPOSED to run nearly empty---don't try to reason it---that's just the way they are. The primer bulb has nothing to do with it once the motor is running, the fuel pump supplies the gas.

As for the throttle linkage, the carburetor butterfly is supposed to just barely be ready to start opening when the roller is centered on the mark. You adjust it by loosening the screw holding the cam and slide the small end of the cam in or out.

The tank in the video has an air leak at the connector, but you said you bought a new tank.

I think the carburetor needs to be adjusted--on a boat, on the lake. HOWEVER, there may be a problem in the carburetor's idle circuit. You cleaned it, I didn't so all I can do is believe you did it right (?)

 

[tondss]

The fuel pump obviously is working fine. The glass bowl is SUPPOSED to run nearly empty---don't try to reason it---that's just the way they are. The primer bulb has nothing to do with it once the motor is running, the fuel pump supplies the gas.

As for the throttle linkage, the carburetor butterfly is supposed to just barely be ready to start opening when the roller is centered on the mark. You adjust it by loosening the screw holding the cam and slide the small end of the cam in or out.

The tank in the video has an air leak at the connector, but you said you bought a new tank.

I think the carburetor needs to be adjusted--on a boat, on the lake. HOWEVER, there may be a problem in the carburetor's idle circuit. You cleaned it, I didn't so all I can do is believe you did it right (?)

Is there an informational video on how to adjust this? I returned the new tank because it didn't make a difference on how the motor ran. The Bulb is brand new and is working correctly. I did clean it. I believe i cleaned it properly. There is no gas leaks coming from it. At first there was a leak coming from the high speed idle because it wasn't packed correctly.

 

[tomhath]

When you say "carb has been cleaned" what did you do? The idle circuit could be plugged underneath the welsh plug...did you remove that and clean underneath it?

Also did you set the points' gap? That effects the ignition timing and has to be as close to 0.020 as you can get it, if the gap is off you'll still get a spark but it might be way off time. And remember that the spark is advanced as you twist the throttle.

 

[tondss]

Update: I have got the spark tester. It is jumping a 1/4 gap nicely. However when the engine sputters at wot in neutral I was see the spark stop for a split second almost not noticable. However I pulled the bottom plug and saw some water coming out of it. Also water coming out from the bolt behind the fuel bowl. Does this mean I just replace the head gasket? This seems a bit newer as well. It looks like it's spitting out water pretty good so I don't know how it would have over heated?

 

[tondss]

Bump for some help.

 

[AlTn]

that's the outer exhaust cover your screwdriver is pointing to...yep, there's an inner as well which is sandwiched between 2 gaskets..if the inner is leaking to the inside it can account for the water in the lower cylinder..on your vid...the lower cylinder spark plug boot looks "cockeyed" somewhat where it slips over the spark plug...if you have trouble snapping it on, that boot and spring can be purchased from a dealer and they just pull off from the spark plug wire..clip about 1/4" off the end of the wire and reattach the clip , then slide it into the boot...it'll look to be impossible to shove it into the boot but with a little wd it'll go right in...a ?..are both spark plugs the same?

 

[tondss]

When you say "carb has been cleaned" what did you do? The idle circuit could be plugged underneath the welsh plug...did you remove that and clean underneath it?

Also did you set the points' gap? That effects the ignition timing and has to be as close to 0.020 as you can get it, if the gap is off you'll still get a spark but it might be way off time. And remember that the spark is advanced as you twist the throttle.

I did not remove the Welsh plug and clean the idle circuit. As a matter of fact. Maybe I should take it apart and do that. However I think at this point I have a bigger problem lol. I did not set the points gap (timing) I didn't take the flywheel off. I believe that's ok.

As for Altn: awesome I hope it is the inner gasket. This screw seem awfully low. I don't have to pull the whole motor to get to those do I? And maybe it's time to replace the impeller. I mean if it overheated is that the only thing it could be? Will I need to replace every gasket or just the one that will be ripped? This motor is starting to get costly. :/

 

[tondss]

that's the outer exhaust cover your screwdriver is pointing to...yep, there's an inner as well which is sandwiched between 2 gaskets..if the inner is leaking to the inside it can account for the water in the lower cylinder..on your vid...the lower cylinder spark plug boot looks "cockeyed" somewhat where it slips over the spark plug...if you have trouble snapping it on, that boot and spring can be purchased from a dealer and they just pull off from the spark plug wire..clip about 1/4" off the end of the wire and reattach the clip , then slide it into the boot...it'll look to be impossible to shove it into the boot but with a little wd it'll go right in...a ?..are both spark plugs the same?

Both plugs are the same. I don't seem to have any trouble with the wires clipping on. Is that something I should take a look at?

 

[racerone]

You would do well to remove the flywheel to inspect the coils and condensers.----And post a picture of them.----If coils are original then you need 2 new ones !!

 

[AlTn]

remove the powerhead to replace the gaskets?...options.1.you have an offset screwdriver and the screws come out easily, that's as good as it gets 2. the head of screw just above your screwdriver in the pic has broken off ,but the outer cover will slide over it when the other screws are removed and that screw leaves a nub that a pair of vice grips will remove easily..3. other screw heads break off and drilling them out is the only option.. at this point removing the powerhead becomes the best option. Fortunately, it's not that difficult IF this isn't or has been a salt water motor and every screw/bolt has become corroded in place.

 

[tondss]

You would do well to remove the flywheel to inspect the coils and condensers.----And post a picture of them.----If coils are original then you need 2 new ones !!

I will watch some informational videos on how to do this. And post a pick hopefully it's not to invasive.