91 Johnson 60 - seems to have heating issue with hood on

Fed

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Is the black primer solenoid handle right, looks wrong to me.
 
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Feb 24, 2015
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Your carb butterfly linkages look at slightly different angles to each other, do they all open exactly in synch when you look through the throats?
Also whats that spare wire with circle connector hanginf off your solenoid?

The butterflies do open and close in sync. I have checked that multiple times.

The spare wire is the ground for the solenoid, I had pulled it off before this pic was taken. It was just sitting there. Not sure if you can see, but if you look closely, you can see the bracket is off and the two threaded holes in the block.
 

racerone

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That is correct for the " run " position.-------Where is the silencer that mounts in front of the carburetors ?----Have you confirmed that apark will jump a gap of 7/16" or more ?
 
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That is correct for the " run " position.-------Where is the silencer that mounts in front of the carburetors ?----Have you confirmed that apark will jump a gap of 7/16" or more ?

The silencer is resting on the boat for the pic. It does exist.

As for testing the spark, no. I'm not saying it is impossible, but I feel if it was a spark issue, I wouldn't be able to make it run correctly at all. I can get it to either idle or run on the top end. Now it just wants to not run well when hot and is sometimes hard to restart.
 

racerone

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Sorry , but it is in your best interest to test for proper spark.---It is a " no money spent " test and a very good trouble shooting technique.---The other no money spent check you can do is the starter motor.---Take it apart for inspection and a simple ohm test on it.-A slow cranking motor will be hard to start !!!!
 

daselbee

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The real clue to your problems is staring you in the face. The idle fuel quantity and mixture is critical to proper operation of the engine.
Your mixture screws are not all the same, and they are not in the proper range...2.5 turns. They are way off.

Correct that before you can call it fixed.
 
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The real clue to your problems is staring you in the face. The idle fuel quantity and mixture is critical to proper operation of the engine.
Your mixture screws are not all the same, and they are not in the proper range...2.5 turns. They are way off.

Correct that before you can call it fixed.

I do agree with this. But I also agree with the statement it may be a problem with our solenoid letting fuel past. We are working on picking up parts for it. It does seem like a flooding issue.

I can't express enough gratitude for all the help so far from everyone. Hopefully some good news to come soon.
 

daselbee

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If you clamped off the INCOMING fuel line from the fuel pump to the solenoid (of the three small lines at the solenoid, it is the larger one, or the "center" one), then that is not the problem.
 

Fed

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You're right CC the primer position is correct I had to download the pic & brighten it to see it properly.
Thanks racerone you made me look.
 

Bosunsmate

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As for testing the spark, no. I'm not saying it is impossible, but I feel if it was a spark issue, I wouldn't be able to make it run correctly at all. I can get it to either idle or run on the top end. Now it just wants to not run well when hot and is sometimes hard to restart.

Its probably being covered here already but keep in mind that electrical components if worn out generally fail when hot. So spark testing when hot is the way to check for that
 

clanton

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Jul 9, 2001
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Take a look at these bulletins.

These are OEM Service Bulletins, you might want to look at. Some of these apply to the 60hp engine.

SB2221 temp sensor, pigtail tan/blue stripe
SB2225 thermostat seat
SB2271 jet kit/ timing change
SB2276R1 relocation of tattle tale nipple
432955 waterpump kit has different inpeller, thermostat housing cover, spring, and inclueds SB2276R1[/QUOTE]
 

Fed

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Are the exhaust bypass ports clear of the water and/or any possibility of an exhaust leak at the exhaust adapter.
 
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Feb 24, 2015
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Rebuilt the primer solenoid. Checked all the fuel lines. 1/1.5/2 turns from top to bottom carb after reset to factory 2.5. Can't find any other source of extra fuel going into carbs unless solenoid itself is just going bad.

I'm wondering if it has incorrect or drilled out jets? It ran well after warmed up, even with hood on. Only problem I had was trying to load onto trailer. Didn't want to idle and hard to restart sometimes. Seemed like the carbs were loading up with fuel.
 
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