1981 Evinrude 35 Starter Help

AgTires4295

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Oct 17, 2012
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So I've recently had some time to see if this engine runs and my first obstacle has presented itself. I dribbled some 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and let it sit for about a week (no telling how long this thing has sat). Today, I attempted to start it by hitting the Start button after connecting it to a small lawn mower battery (275CCA... I know its small but thats all I have at the moment). The battery reads 12.6v without a load and I cut/recrimped the connectors for a better connection. I didnt get anything. It turned over about 2 weeks ago so now Im stumped. I put a voltmeter on either side of what I perceive to be a starter relay and saw 0. I then put the negative probe on the starters power supply and the positive probe to the top side of the relay and saw 12.6v. I'm guessing the relay is bad so I disconnected the two heavy gauge wires and briefly connected them, bypassing the relay and that jumped the starter to life. I'm hoping I didnt damage anything in the process but am wondering what's next/do I really need to buy a new relay? Did I miss something and is there anything else to test?
 
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AgTires4295

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I double-posted the photo and have tried to delete it but cant figure out how... feeling pretty inept today.
 
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Will Bark

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Check for a blown fuse in a connector close to the starter solenoid. Good luck
 

F_R

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Your test method is faulty. And the relay (solenoid) could possibly be bad, but most likely is NOT the problem.

Put your + voltmeter on one of the small relay posts and hit the starter button. Should show battery voltage. Do the same thing on the other one. Should show zero volts. Makes no difference which is which.

I can't tell by the picture, but it probably has a safety switch on the gearshift or throttle. If the shift & throttle aren't set to start position....it won't. Also the safety switch may be shot. Remove the wire and ground it. If motor now starts, everything is ok except the safety switch which may be doing it's job of preventing starting in gear/throttle OR...it's shot.

EDIT: I just checked, electric starting model does have a safety switch on the gearshift linkage. Must be in neutral to start.
 
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gm280

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I am guessing your solenoid is not your problem either. But like previous stated, you have to see if you are applying the voltage from the start button to the little terminals on the starter solenoid. And if you do read voltage on one of the little terminals on the starter solenoid then the other side should go to a ground point. So maybe your grounding point needs cleaned as well. But it may also go through a neutral safety switch and you are not in neutral for it to allow you to start it. There could also be a fuse or breaker inline as well. So follow the wires attached on both sides of the solenoid's little terminals and verify all connections are clean and shiny. And that does go especially well for the larger wire terminals on the solenoid. I see yours could use a good cleaning from your picture. I have to say that your solenoid looks like a standard starter solenoid that they sell most any place. Any auto parts store sells those things around $10 dollars...
 

AgTires4295

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Okay great advice here. I know almost nothing about this engine and didnt think it would be this complex (I guess thats a good thing). I dont see any in-line fuses anywhere. How do you unlock the throttle??? Both engines (I have a second ine nearly identical without a starter) have their throttle handle locked.
 
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F_R

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If you get battery voltage to the one small solenoid post when attempting to start, the fuse is good. If not, you will have to locate the fuse. Should be in a rubber molded bulge in a wire leading to the battery cable side of the solenoid.

I'm confused about the throttle question. Are you speaking about a remote control?
 

wrench 3

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The tests described above are right on the money. But if you do come up with a bad solenoid, The internal wiring on most automotive solenoids of that style is different than yours. Your solenoid needs power supplied to one of the small terminals and the other one grounded to turn on. Most automotive solenoids need power to one small terminal and the base grounded to turn on. The other small terminal on the automotive version is connected to the battery terminal when the solenoid energizes. If this terminal was connected to the wire to neutral safety switch it would burn out the switch or the wiring!
 

AgTires4295

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I'm so very appreciative of all of this wonderful advice! I reinstalled the solenoid, played around with the gear shift and it must have a touchy neutral safety switch. I had to jiggle it around/put it in just the right position in neutral to get it to fire.

LUCKILY I dont have a bad solenoid but man that sucker is LOUD when I push the Start button (referring directly to the solenoid). It sounds like a short and I had to see if sparks were flying somewhere thinking that I had a bad connection or ground. Nope, it was the solenoid making the sound.

SO on to the next adventure haha. I wanted to see if the spark plugs were firing so I pulled them out one at a time and grounded them on the block. No spark on either... hoping I have faulty plugs from years ago and not bad coils. Is there a way to test the coils without either getting shocked or blowing my voltmeter? I tried to swap spark plugs from the other engine but they are truly stuck in the block and I'm going to have to get creative in removing them. The spark plugs in this motor are different and look inefficient. There's no electrode (Ive never seen this). I was afraid that it broke off and was in the cylinder, scarring up the walls but both are identical and now appear to be stock.
 
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AgTires4295

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Oct 17, 2012
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If you get battery voltage to the one small solenoid post when attempting to start, the fuse is good. If not, you will have to locate the fuse. Should be in a rubber molded bulge in a wire leading to the battery cable side of the solenoid.

I'm confused about the throttle question. Are you speaking about a remote control?

Sorry for the confusion. Ultimately, Ill be hooking up a remote control but the standard tiller arm throttle is what's locked on both units. I've looked for any type of button, lever or slide to unlock the throttles on both but have come up empty.
 

F_R

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There is no "lock". But there is an interlock that limits throttle in neutral and reverse. Even so, there should be some throttle range within the slow speed range. If it is stuck tight, there probably is a tight part somewhere due to corrosion. OR....somebody may have forced it past the neutral interlock. You will have to examine it where you are, we can only guess from here.
 
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