What should I look for before purchasing this Johnson 9.9 HP outboard?

[Acton]

So I'm kind of of new to the world of small outboards, and boating in general. I own a small 5hp seaking, and that has it's own gas tank attached. When I bought the motor I made sure the lower unit wasn't seized just by seeing if the propeller moved around. I had the guy start the engine and checked to see if there was adequate water flow, since it's water cooled. I got the thing real cheap so as long as it worked I didn't really go into it further then that.

At this point I'm looking to upgrade to this 9.9hp johnson. The guy wants $150 for it, and I'm supposed to go look at it this week.

This engine is a little more complicated then what I've dealt with before with the seaking. For one I'll need a separate gas tank for a motor this size right? From the picture it looks like there isn't a gas tank on the actual motor. . . How does that work exactly? From what I've seen in youtube videos you have to "prime the bulb" to get gas flow from the tank to the engine right? I've seen gas tanks for these size outboards being sold on CL. . .

It might be reasonable to consider the possibility that I might not be able to actually see the engine run before purchasing this outboard before buying like I've been able to ask for with smaller outboards. In that case how can I be sure that I'm buying something that's in good condition or at least is in running order?

Of course the engine needs to be in a barrel with water to run safely, but is there anyway I could hit the carb with starting fluid to see that the engine turns over and the lower unit works? I only need to see it run for a few seconds.

I can deal with carb issues. My seaking has some carb issues, all I have to do is hit it with starting fluid before I head out for the day and it's fine. Starts up easily enough when its warm

Obviously I'm kind of lacking on knowledge in the small outboard department. I know some really basic info but that's it. . . can anyone point me towards any resources so I'll know what I'm supposed to look for when purchasing outboards in the future?

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

1974 model.-------A case of buyer beware for sure.---Hear it run properly in a barrel before handing over any hard earned coins !

 

[Acton]

So I found this youtube video, and I learned a lot from it. . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88RNlB-snao

Lower Unit:
So first thing I want to do is put the motor into neutral then see if the prop will spin, otherwise the lower unit is seized?
I'll also want to check if the shaft is straight. What happens if it's not straight. . . ? This is different then just a broken sheer pin right?
I'll also want to check the seals on the lower unit by slightly unscrewing the lower screw with a flat head. If the oil in the lower unit is creamy colored; that means the seals are bad. If the oil isn't creamy colored I'm all good?
Check the cylinder heads and see if they're discolored. If they are that could indicate cooling issues, ie bad water flow through the lower unit?

Motor:
I'll want to check cylinder compression, which means buying a compression gauge. I'll have to take off the spark plugs, attach the compression guage and have someone pull the pull cord. Compression should be equal in both cylinders right?
The video mentions actually looking at the spark plugs themselves. Apparently if there's "flakes in the spark plug that means the bearings on the crankshafts are bad." I can understand how that'd be a terminal issue, but it's hard to actually physically see these "flakes" in the video.
Then the video suggest looking at the head itself to see if there's corrosion, which seems simple enough.

If the guy claims that the engine runs, but can't actually do a demo is there anything else I should be looking for? And again if he is willing to do a demo but doesn't have a gas tank, is there any other way to do a demo ie hitting the carb with starting fluid. . . ?

​thanks!

 

[F_R]

As already suggested, 1974 models had serious problems that even the factory couldn't fix. Considering your inexperience, my advice to you is turn away, start running, and don't look back.

 

[Acton]

I think you guys are right. Unless he can do a full demo and I see that the engine runs fine for a few minutes with good water flow through the lower unit I'm probably going to run. I'm definitely going to check it out at least though. The guy only wants $150 for it. . . . obviously this is fishy, but its winter and the guy has a few outboards he's looking to sell quick.

I've learned a lot from taking advantage of "fishy deals" though. I picked up a 1.75 hp air cooled game fisher from a friend for free that had issues with the fuel line. I cleaned out the carb and checked the fuel line. Turns out it as an issue with the "fuel petcock bowl". The threads where stripped, so it was allowing air to get into the fuel line. Had a neighbor take a look at it, and he threw some sort of industrial glue on it. Purrs like a kitten now.

I ended up buying a 5 hp 53 seaking for $125 last summer after that. Most people told me to run from that too. All I had to do was hit it with starter fluid at the beginning of the day and I was good. Can't beat that. Just had to do was throw down $125 and I had something to use for the whole summer. I'm looking to upgrade to something bigger this year. For $150 I'd be willing to deal with issues. Even if I get one season out of it I'd be happy. Obviously trouble shooting with any sort of issues the engine will probably have will give me the experience I'm looking for too. I'm hesitant to buy a new 9.9 hp motor that'll cost me around $1500+ around here without actually knowing too much. Better to start with a cheap piece of crap and go from there right?

Still there's a point where it's foolish to invest in something that doesn't work at all. So I think you guys are right, I should def see that it at least turns over and the lower end isn't seized. I think I'm gonna insist on a demo before I buy.

Edit: So I took a look around, and apparently staring an outboard with starting fluid continuously is pretty bad for the motor because of the lack of lubrication. Good to know for my seaking! Still don't regret spending $125 for a motor that I got a full season out of. Definitely need to move onto something else at this point.

Do you guys have any suggestions for where to look other then craigslist for a quality 9.9 hp under $1000?

 

[ondarvr]

You can find good running 9.9's for under $1,000 on CL all day long.

I wouldn't even go look at that 1974 motor, just look for something different, and newer.

 

[ondarvr]

Answering your PM

You aren't going to get a new motor for under $1,000, but you can get a very good running older motor.


http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/boa/4831716911.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/boa/4851394258.html

http://rochester.craigslist.org/boa/4852811663.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/search/boo?query=9.9

http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/boa/4831668546.html

 

[ondarvr]

You could have $500 into the 1974 quickly and it still wouldn't run well.

 

[gm280]

If you are a tinker and have the tools and fortitude to work on such an engine, then offer him $100 straight up and take it home. However, if you know nothing about such engines and don't want to learn anything about it either and want a crank and go engine without much effort, walk away. It seriously all depends on what you want and are capably of doing. Do I believe it will run without any issues...certainly not! But know what I know how to do, I would take it for a little project engine...if the price was right! JMHO!

 

[ondarvr]

I wouldn't take it on as a project, if the 74' is the model I think it is, just leave it be, it's not a good design. After several years of boating and you think you want to resurrect a piece of junk, buy a motor like the 74', or better yet. buy one a year or two newer, they are a very good design.

 

[gm280]

Does the model number actually cross to a 1974 year? Reason I ask is because that color scheme seems like a '76 or newer color scheme to me...

 

[ondarvr]

The pic didn't show up on my phone, that's the early years of the newer design, much better than the older one. First year of a new design can be questionable though.

 

[Acton]

I omly have the one picture, I haven't seen the motor in person yet. Ill keep you guys updated. I think if I can get him down to $100 Ill take it. Shouldnt be to hard to flip and not take a loss over the summer

 

[racerone]

????-----That is a 1974 model hood / decal and colour !!!--------1977 MODELS WERE WHITE AGAIN !

 

[Acton]

No Title

Im taking a look at this for $450, but the guy says he's willing to negotiate. Figure Ill ask for $300 and hopefully get him down to $400-$350? Its an 8 HP motor. Guy claims it starts up with no issues and has been stored in a heated garage and properly winterized. Seems like $200+ savings for 2 less HP is a good tradeoff. Looking to buy a trailer for that much...

 

[F_R]

I'm more comfortable, seeing you get that one. Thanks, I was about to get worried about you.

 

[Acton]

Taking a look at this 9.9 HP 1978 with a 15HP carb on it for $450. . . thoughts? Not really impressed with what I'm seeing on youtube for 8 HP. . .




Claims that the water pump is brand new and obviously he switched out the carb.

 

[BF]

What kind of boat will it go on? I have a 1982 Evinrude 15hp that is a great motor. I'd stick with a CDI ignition one, rather than one with points and coils (like the '74-'76 one that you first posted on). I'm not sure what the 78 has for ignition (maybe CDI?), but I'd rather get a real 15hp rather than a 9.9 that's been monkeyed with. I'd also definitely wait for a 15 rather than buy a 9.9 of the same vintage.... 15 has exceptional power to weight ratio, and will have noticeably more top end power than a 9.9. If it's going on a 12' boat, 15hp might be too much... otherwise probably not. Whatever you buy... figure on changing the impeller right away. It's not hard, once you know how.

 

[F_R]

Taking a look at this 9.9 HP 1978 with a 15HP carb on it for $450. . . thoughts? Not really impressed with what I'm seeing on youtube for 8 HP. . .




Claims that the water pump is brand new and obviously he switched out the carb.

I have no personal problem with the 1978. As far as I know, they had the troubles straightened out by then. But I quit the outboard shop that year, so don't have a lot of experience with the '78 models, unlike the 1974-76 that drove me nuts. Couldn't keep them running one weekend on certain boats. Yes, the '78 has CDI ignition.

 

[Acton]

Yeah I have a 12ft v hull. If I end up getting this motor I think I might put a new thicker transom in. From what I've seen online Horsepower Rating = length of boat x width of transom. . . . So putting a newer thicker transom in might boost the HP?