removal of outer exhaust housing 115 1977 johnson v4

crankbait cowboy

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trying to remove just the outer exhaust housing to get in and inspect the dual water tubes. the lower unit ( gearcase) is removed and i have removed the 5 main bolts connecting outer housing to adapter and the stern bracket bolts. what am i missing as will not budge. do i need to remove the power head to get at more bolts on front end, or what may i be doing wrong or missing. i only want to remove the outer housing. any help or suggestions greatly appreciated and thanks
 

racerone

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Powerhead must come off to do what you want to accomplish.-------What is the nature of the problem to lead you to this approach and this inspection ?
 

crankbait cowboy

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its a 1977 v4 115 and sitting in shed for 15 years so i got her to fire did a compression test, removed lower unit and put in prop seals, shift shaft seals and drive shaft seals and water pump. i am basically restoring it , and want to be sure the water tubes are ok, and then thermostat. may be all for not but hate to slap her back together and have cooling issues. so in order to get the outer exhaust housing off, your saying there must be some bolts under the power head that i am not seeing or cant get at? i really just want to drop the outer housing from the housing adapter ( not the whole thing )
 

F_R

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Do whatever you want, but it seems like a lot of work looking for problems that probably don't exist. Anyhow, you have to remove the powerhead, then take the midsection out of the motor mounts (top & bottom), then remove the powerhead adapter. Finally, you can remove the inner exhaust housing, which is where the water tubes are.
 

crankbait cowboy

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seemed like a good idea till i realized the powerhead had to come off. FR actually i believe the tubes are inside of the outer housing and outside of the inner housing that is why i thought not such a big deal to just take the outer housing off.
 

boobie

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Go to shop.evinrude.com and look up a parts break down of your motor.
 

crankbait cowboy

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maybe i am not explaining myself correctly. i want to drop only the outer housing from the adapter which is between powerhead and outer housing. all the schematics i look at it looks like the 6 big bolts between housing and adapter and stern bracket bolts should be all i need to remove. when done the inner housing and tubes should still be attached to adapter which is attached to powerhead. sound correct or am i seeing something wrong or not seeing something.
 

Bosunsmate

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maybe take some photos.
sounds like a lot of work especially if its a saltie
 

F_R

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maybe i am not explaining myself correctly. i want to drop only the outer housing from the adapter which is between powerhead and outer housing. all the schematics i look at it looks like the 6 big bolts between housing and adapter and stern bracket bolts should be all i need to remove. when done the inner housing and tubes should still be attached to adapter which is attached to powerhead. sound correct or am i seeing something wrong or not seeing something.

OK, I understand what you are contemplating. Before I go on, let me say that although I am quite familiar with previous models, the 1977 has some changes in the adapter and inner ex housing.

Having said that, if I am not mistaken, 6 bolts that hold the outer exhaust housing also go up into the powerhead. Even if that does release the outer housing, you still have to remove the lower mounts. Now, it is my belief that once the powerhead is off, the two front upper motor mount bolts go down into the outer exhaust housing, which means the powerhead would have to come off to access those two bolts, if nothing else.

My disclaimer is that as I admitted, I haven't had occasion to remove the exhaust housing on that particular model. And I've certainly never removed only the outer housing on any model. Never saw a need to.
 

crankbait cowboy

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thanks for the input guys, and i am now with you FR after further inspection. also my thinking is if the inner housing is intact and looks good ( and it does) and the tubes look fine ( and they do from the lower end) i should leave well enough alone. my new question concerns the guide tubes. they are in tough shape ( frayed and one looks like it took some heat ) they look a bit damaged so i would like to replace the guide tubes from pump housing to copper tubes before putting lower unit back on. anybody able to help me in locating #314081 short and #314765 guide tubes as everywhere i have searched says unavailable or obsolete.
 

crankbait cowboy

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OR, are these guides only to get tubes lined up ( copper tube to pump housing) and serve no other purpose . if so what i have would be good enough , if they actually tie the copper to housing after fully installed lower unit then they should probable be relaced . i noticed when i dropped the lower unit these guide tubes were flush with the copper tubes. leaving me to believe they are for guiding only, and serve no other real purpose when assembled. ?? thanks gang
 

F_R

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You are correct. The guides are only to make it easy to assemble the gearcase onto the ex hsg. Once installed, they merely go along for the ride. And yes, they usually shinny up the tube and most people don't even think of looking up in there.
 

crankbait cowboy

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thanks for the input and advice fellas. what i have decided is the following. let me know if it will be ok or if i should go the distance. the guide tubes are rough but they do slide up the copper tubes so i think i can make them work for the install. pic 1
the tubes had been smashed up by po i assume so i came up with the following to try and make them usable. pic 2 before trying to repair pic 3 used a 1/2 inch bolt and ratcheted slowely into tube pic 4 used needle nose vise grips to try straighten up ends while bolt still in place. pic 5 tubes after trying to repair. they are much better and i believe round enough to fit into grommets on pump housing. gonna work??
 

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F_R

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Holy cow, no wonder you were trying to get it apart. One has to wonder what the guy was thinking, to do that much damage. I reckon right now you have two choices, One, get them as round as possible and hope they seal well enough in the grommets, or Two, go ahead and replace them. On some models, you could cut them off and solder some repair extensions on, but I don't think that would be practical on this one. No room.
 

crankbait cowboy

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yeah they still aint perfect. is there any truth to the starboard side being more important because it is the tube taking h20 up to engine and port is just a return line. also how tight a seal on them grommets is neccesarry , because i dont see ever getting them perfectly round. also if i could improve on my work how far into the grommet does the tube actually go ( how far up the tube would i need to get rounded properly). lots of questions i know, but figure somebody here can shed some much needed light, as i am really just guessing that i can get them good enough? probably not gonna tell me much but thinking i could slide an old grommet off the pump housing i replaced onto the tubes and see if gonna work or not.
 
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crankbait cowboy

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how bout it gang , any of you wiser than me got any thoughts concerning post above? not sure which way to go and any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. thanks
 

boobie

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What kind of an idiot did that ?? If it was my motor I'd replace them.
 

boobie

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You can buy water tube extensions with an o-ring in them. Cut the tubes off and install them. Check shop.evinrude.com on the bigger motors.
 

crankbait cowboy

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not sure who. i got the motor a year ago and has been in storage for over 20 years i was told . its a project for a projects boat i am working on . i had it running and just dont know how to proceed with these bent tubes. but got it for nothing and it runs. all new seals in lower unit, gonna do carb kits and such. really need some input on how true those tubes got to be to match up with grommets. what i got will fit in the grommet, but dont know how tight a seal is neccessary between tubes and grommets on pump housing , or how deep the copper tubes gets into grommets ( to know how much of the tube i have to straighten up for good seal ) thanks for your input boobie, can you or anybody else shed some light on how good a seal needed between the tube and grommet and how deep they get in the grommet. big job to remove and replace tubes, and another 80 bucks from what i can tell. if absolutely neccesary ill do it, but hopin somebody here could tell me they have straightened them the best they could and it worked. basically fishin for thoughts or other experiences. thanks
 
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