Engine install questions

[BoatingCop]

Tomorrow I'm buying a 1990 Johnson 175hp with a 25" shaft. I have never installed or removed an outboard before so here's my questions. I'm removing a 1996 Force 120 hp engine, so I'm assuming none of the holes will line up for the Johnson. From you pros out there, Is there a kit or a template to lay over the transom to drill the holes? I just don't want to make any mistakes, and I definitely want to get the motor in the center of the boat and level. Any suggestions or tips? FWIW, this motor is going on a Fisher Bay 19 center console. Thank you in advance.

 

[racerone]

Could you use a piece of carboard on the 120 to mark the holes ?????-----Then put that piece of cardboard and the 175 and see if they are the same.

 

[boobie]

Seeing it's a '96 Force it may have the same hole pattern as the OMC.

 

[BoatingCop]

Thank y'all both for the replies. I don't know why I typed '96 but its a '98 Force, which is still the same engine. Thats good to know the bolt patter may be the same. I'l check on it when I get the motor tomorrow. I'll also post pics. Thanks for the suggestion racerone, I'll do just that tomorrow.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Agree. Most late model outboards use the same hole pattern. You will want to determine which transom bracket holes to use to mount the engine in, so that it sits at the right height. Critical for optimum performance and powerhead cooling.

 

[BoatingCop]

Ok, so the two motors have the same bolt pattern. Now my question is what bolts to use? The old ones had some corrosion on them so I really didn't want re-use them. I went and bought some grade 8 bolts but then I thought about rust, and regular grade 8 will probably rust in a hurry. What bolts do people normally use? Thanks

 

[64osby]

Looks like a nice upgrade.

Stainless bolts, but I don't think they grade stainless, because it can't be hardened. They do use stronger alloys than grade 2.

 

[BoatingCop]

Ok, thats good to know, because I was wondering how strong the stainless bolts were. If thats what's normally used I'll do it, but I'd dont' want to have to pick my motor up from the bottom of the lake! lol Thank you for the reply.

 

[boobie]

I'd get the bolts, nuts and washers that the OEM supplies. JMO

 

[racerone]

Some stainless materials can be very hard and tough !---Agreed , go with the factory bolts.--A little extra $$ but worth it.

 

[BoatingCop]

Thanks Racer. Would any BRP shop carry the bolts?

 

[racerone]

Most likely a shop would have used ones laying around.-Get some that were used in fresh water.

 

[seahorse5]

This may help

http://files.websitetoolbox.com/40622/637072

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post...es-and-no-s-4669772?pid=39760931#post39760931

 

[BoatingCop]

Thank yall for the replies. Ok, so as far as proof load goes it looks like I'm ok. I got the motor installed on the boat today and the holes matched perfectly! It actually started nearly almost without any choke. I do have some VRO issues to track down though since it gave the "NO OIL" warning horn which is a beep every few seconds. I'm still running 50:1 in the tank though so thats good. Anyways, these issues are for another thread. Thank for the help, and I'll post some pictures later.