What can you tell me about this motor , Please

monriverguy

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Oct 28, 2013
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Thanks to all in advance as i know nothing about boat motors above 20 hp..., I have a chance to buy a 1978 75 hp Johnson model number--- 75elr78c ..... Serial j4949602........ for just a few hundred but it has now wiring cables or controls.... but owner does say it runs sold boat recently and kept motor... my question's are .........Is this a good motor?? Can you still get parts?? Can i get a wire harness and controls for this motor ? and what should i look at when i go to check this motor out?? and once again thanks to all on here you all keep me floating........:)
 

boobie

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First thing to do is check the compression then the spark. Just so you know, that motor was a dog out of the hole.
 

F_R

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Make sure there is no singed paint on the block, indicating overheat. The control might cost you a bit.
 

emdsapmgr

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I ran that same 75 hpengine from 1976 for years. Mine was a short shaft with a small gearcase, however. Your version has the standard 20" midsection with conventional gearcase. It's all electronic ignition, which is solid. I prefer the later 3 cyls which have adjustable idle screws-yours has fixed jets. Seems these 3 cyls are just not good idlers at low rpm's. A solid engine, good runner. Your version suffers from two problems. 1. It's only 49 cubic inches, yet is rated at 75 hp. That's pretty small displacement for the hp it's rated for. It is rated to run up to 5750 max normal rpm's-higher than the sister 70 hp. 2. The powerhead is ported for high rpm hp, so only makes much hp in the upper rpm's bands. So, taking both items into account, I agree with Boobie's comment that it will be a dog out of the hole. A strong runner over 4000 rpm's. They made these by the thousands and many parts are still available for these engines. If you have no controls, be careful. OMC changed the throttle and shift cables in the 79 model year. That means the control boxes for 79 and up are different-internally. Look on ebay for a used control box. You did not mention whether the engine has power trim. Maybe not, but it's a really great addition if it has it-and adds extra value to the engine. (That will also make the control box different-if it has power trim you will need the switch in the control box handle.) If it does have trim, you are probably missing the special trim control box which you will have to get used-it's NLA.
 

monriverguy

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Oct 28, 2013
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Wow thanks for the quick replys, thats what i was afraid of i dont see anywhere on the web to get the control cables at, what should i be looking for on e bay?
 

racerone

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Any OMC / JOHNSON / EVINRUDE control with the big red plug works.----Made from 1973 to 1995 or so.-------------Lots of used one around.
 

monriverguy

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Oct 28, 2013
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Ok thanks all for helping me a few more questions if i may ? what is the easy way to check spark and compression when you go to look at a motor like this ? and can you explain what a whole shot is ?? Please
 

steelespike

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Apr 26, 2002
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Hole shot is the time it takes to get from idle speed to planing speed. Compression check you remove the plugs one at a time and check each cylinder with a compression gauge.Ground the plug wire of the cylinder being checked. Spark check get a spark tester and follow the directions.
When checking for spark Leave the plug wires not being checked on the spark plugs or securely grounded.
Careless handing of the ignition components when trouble shooting can damage the system.
 

monriverguy

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Oct 28, 2013
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how do i turn the motor over to check compression and spark? motor has no wire harness or controls
 

emdsapmgr

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You can remove all the plugs, then install the comp gauge in one of the cyls. Jump the starter direct with a set of automotive jumper cables to a known strong battery. The resulting cranking speed will provide a good compression reading. Do all 3 cyls. I'd be looking for over 120 lbs on each cyl. Each should be within 10% of each other. Good thing to do at this time. No point in putting any $ into it if the compression is bad on one or more cyls.
 
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