1957 Evinrude 18 HP (FD11) won't start

[fesser]

I have been lurking here for about a year and have learned a lot. I need to learn more. I recently bought a '57 18 horse from the son of a gentleman that had passed away. It last ran "a few" years ago. It came with many spare parts and had obviously been maintained throughout its life. I took it home and couldn't resist trying to start it. I hooked up the old gas in the old tank (I know) and after a pretty good workout with the rope she fired up and ran for about 4 seconds. When she died I figured I wouldn't mess with her until she had good gas and new ignition. I broke out the manual and the atm card and put in new coils, new points, new condensors, new plug wires and boots, new plugs, and rebuilt the carb. I set the pont gap at 20 and then used the ohm meter method (from this site) to get the points to open right between the marks. I noticed that the point gap was now much smaller than 20 but I read that it didn't matter. "sync'ed the carb and brought in the new gas and the water tank. I was so optimistic about my work that I even bolted on the big Evinrude clamshell engine cover (can I swap that for a Johnson?).

So now, I can pull the heck out of the rope and nothing close to a"fire". Carb has gas based on pulling lower plug from the bowl. Pulled bottom plug and confirmed that she sparks nicely when the rope is pulled. Tried a little starter fluid (very little) in the air box. No change. Pulled until my arm fell off and started getting a kick back. The only way I can explain what I mean is kick starting a motor cycle that sometime tries to kick your leg back up through your shoulder blade.

That made me think that somehow I got the plug wires crossed. So, I switched them. Pulled easier and made a loud backfire after about the third pull. So I kissed it goodnight, closed up the barn and came running to you guys. Is there some obvious newbie thing I screwed up (like putting a car distributor in 180 out)?

Thank you. Frustrated Frank in Napa


Disclaimer: I did a ton of searches here last night and Iboats "quit responding" according to my browser on every post after I tried to scroll down.

 

[nwcove]

compression test first then a real spark test with an open air tester at 3/8 inch....you should be able to hear it snap.

 

[twocyclemania]

I'd do what nwcove suggested (compression and spark). Besides that, I'd remove the air box (silencer) and squirt a gas/oil mix right into the carburetor. Sometimes I find this is what it takes to get the ball rolling. It may or may not do the trick but if you have spark it should fire.

 

[F_R]

fesser, about that ohm meter method of setting the points....did you use a timing fixture or were you using the flywheel marks? The reason I ask is you said the resulting gap was "much smaller than 20". A little bit less than .020" would make sense, but not a lot less. Something has to be wrong with your method.

BTW, I happen to make the timing fixtures. You didn't happen to buy one from me did you?

 

[restornator]

why tear everything down if it wasn't broken??????

first thing you should have done was replace the impeller and gear oil. Fuel/oil mix is 24:1.

 

[fesser]

Thanks all. I checked the compression and both cylinders are the same at 90 or more. My gauge has a sliding bar for an indicator that is ramped so the pointed tip of the ramp is at about 110 while the thick part is at 90. I have to read up on how to read the gauge. I don't have an open air spark tester. As for timing method I used the flywheel marks. I don't own a timing fixture. I am going to pull the flywheel and reset the points to 20 and then try squirting a little fuel mix in the carb throat. I am still getting the I boats.com is not responding message when I scroll down on my home computer so I am sending this from my phone (hopefully).

 

[Poorboywaterfowl]

I would give the points a try at .20 and try to fire her. I have always tried to use the ohm meter and never been able to get it right. I usually just use a feeler gauge at .20, and make sure a .22

 

[HighTrim]

Make sure you clean the points after setting them. Even new points. Run paper stock dipped in acetone or laquer thinner through them to clean.

Did you torque the flywheel nut after re installing the flywheel? If not, and if your tapers were not clean, you may have sheared the key, throwing off the timing.

With good compression, and spraying pre mixed fuel directly into cylinder will not get it to run for a couple seconds, look to the ignition.

 

[fesser]

So, no joy with setting the points at 20 and hoping she would start. Had a friend help out and found bottom plug only fired once in awhile. Pulled flywheel and found points were closer to 25 on one set. They were dead on and things were tight. Then friend asked how i knew top from bottom. I could only say that i ran the wires where they had been. Lad thing of note, the key in the crank is not right. It doesn't run parallel to the taper on the crank. It actually is buried so far in the crank it barely leaves anything for the flywheel to engage in. Lastly, i didn't torque the flywheel nut. Hate to confess but i used a quick hit with the impact wrench.

 

[twocyclemania]

As for the points setting; Sounds just like my recent screw-up (and posts) with no spark on my 63 18 Johnson. I put everyone including myself through the ringer trying to solve the problem. Mine were also set at about .25 and there was no spark. After setting a .20 the motor started right up. You'll get there! good luck

 

[HighTrim]

The coil over the top of the carb is the TOP cylinder. So that plug wire runs to the TOP cylinder.

As stated, CLEAN those points. They are still dirty.

ONLY use OEM keys. NO hardware junk. You must use a torque wrench, after cleaning the tapers with acetone.

 

[64osby]

The covers are not interchangeable.

Good luck with getting it running. I have one and runs fantastic.

 

[racerone]

The flywheel key does not need to stick out very far.----------Fact, the flywheel key only locates the flywheel for proper spark. The flywheel is driven by the locking tapers when properly torqued !!