New Boat

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Hello everyone. I just bought a new to me 1970 Chrysler Hydro Vee Commando ( I think) model 522. It has a Johnson outboard but claimed as a 1988 90 HP but I believe it is a 1990 88 HP. Anyway it is a Model# J88MSLESA Serial# R 08533310 It is a USA model and I am looking for a factory service manual for the motor and any info about the boat would be great. Thanks in advance. Bob
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Thank you Vic. I appreciate the info. What exactly does pushing the key in do for cold starting? Is there a choke? I am just getting started with this motor so please excuse my ignorance. Anyone familiar with the boat itself? Thanks everyone.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Also, before I get my service manual can anyone tell me a good place to check voltage output for the charging system on this motor? There have been several hands on this electrical system and I would like to find the source before I deem the problem engine related. The voltage is the same engine running or not so there must be an issue. Wiring or mechanical. K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupid.:wink:
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
I am wanting to take her out for a test run tomorrow morning weather permitting but I do not wish to create any problems I don't already have. So far it all seems okay minus the batteries not charging when the engine is running and a water leak on ear muffs. I am going to look at the lower end oil tomorrow and if it is clean and full I am taking her for a spin. I have two fully charged batteries (isolated) and a remote jump starter. So power should not be an issue. I have noticed however that the starboard cylinder bank runs cooler than the port side measured via infra red thermometer by 40 some degrees. I will open the cooling passage behind the lifting eye for a visual inspection for clogged passages but failing that I will take her out. Anyone want to chime in here for any other pre maiden voyage scruitany? Let me know.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Also if the cooling passage has an obstruction what is a good remedy? CLR, White vinager.... ??? What should I do?
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Can I use mobile1 75W 90 synthetic gear lubricant in my lower unit. Although it is not dedicated lower unit gear lube it does meet GL-5 specifications
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Thanks Boobie. I found an old thread here where another salty member was good with mobil 1 75w 90 so I went for it as I had it on the shelf and I wanted to open the system. Had good oil level but some water incursion. I refilled with Mobil one and will check after this weekend if still leaking water into the system.
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
The key should be pushed in when cranking a cold engine. As long as the key is pushed in, it will provide extra fuel to the carbs. (choke) To cold start, it, pump up the primer bulb, then push in on the key for 10 seconds to choke it while cranking. Once started, you will have to occasionally push in on the key during the first minute in order to keep extra fuel going to the carbs when cold. After a minute of occasional choking, it should run on it's own. That engine is a bear to start if the choke solenoid is not working or any of the choke/fuel lines are leaking. Your 88 model engine has a charging rectifier only. Once started, you should see the voltage across the battery terminals gradually increase from 12.5 volts upward. Since it is unregulated, it can get up to 16+ volts after running on plane for 20 minutes or so. If your voltmeter still reads only 12.5 volts after 20 minutes, possible that rectifier is not working. Usually when that happens, the tach will not read correctly-if at all. Runing it that way will eventually discharge the battery over time. That engine has two thermostats, one for each head. The stats open at 143 degrees. Engine heads should warm up to 143-155 at idle after 10 minutes of running in summer lake temp water. If one head is heating more than the other, you may want to pull the thermostat housing apart and change both the stats out. (no point in doing just one at that point.) I'd be careful with the mobil 1 gear oil--does is say for marine use? Any marine grade oil is special-a hypoid oil made to mix with water and still lubricate-if the gearcase seals leak somewhat when in the water. Automotive oils are not made to that spec. Follow boobie's comment in post #9. If you found water in the gearcase oil already, likely the gearcase needs to be re-sealed. Best to do that before you do damage to the gearcase internals. Get a gearcase seal kit and put all new seals in it. Since the engine is new to you, consider replacing the water pump impeller. You may not know how old it is and no point in overheating on the maiden voyage. If you plan to reseal the gearcase, that's an opportune time to put in a new impeller.
 

itsaboattime

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
791
+1 on the impeller replacement. I swap mine out every two seasons.
It is normal for the starboard bank to run hotter than the port one. But I believe 40 degrees is out of spec. As said above swap out the t-stats. And believe me, that's a FUN job. As for cleaning the water jacket, I'd wait on that until after you swap out the t-stats.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 20, 2013
Messages
154
The impeller was just replaced and the pea stream is good. water flow is not an issue however I believe temperature might be I will replace or at least inspected the T-Stat's's report back. I do believe that fuel consumption is an issue as I burned through over 6 gallons in an hour and a half. Power is okay but I believe the fuel consumption is excessive I am not familiar with the Hydro Vee hull and perhaps it is a hungry design. There is a pronounced miss in the mid to full throttle range and I am expecting the carbs need to be adjusted if not rebuilt even though this was recently done. I will do a compression test in the next day or two. We will move forward from there.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Also is iboats a good source for the thermostats and manual or where else should I be looking
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
A compression test is a must on any new engine. Should be one of the first things you check. No point in putting any $ into an engine that has bad compression. That crossflow type engine was never known to be fuel efficient-it's a gas hog. But has lots of torque and will provide years of service with normal maintenance. Lots of parts still readily available for this popular model.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
You are absolutely correct. I did a compression test and it failed miserably. Could be the tester but we will see. The manual is on its way and I will retest and find the cause of any low readings after I get a look at the book. I am betting rings at a minimum or full rebuild.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
Well the compression tester is bad but I still suspect I have a week cylinder.
 

bobsquatch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
154
I was getting like 60 40 0 and zero but now I'm getting all zero the compression tester was bad. No point in posting numbers that are not relevant Or accurate. I have a good tester now but I have yet to make the time to retest.
 
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