Johnson 150hp - Starter won't Turn

[tagmansr]

Was running out for a quick fishing trip before work this week. Boat wouldn't start. Starter would turn but was not like normal. Sounded kind of labored. but after a few times it would start to crank like normal but didn't start. Put boat back up on the trailer and ran it home. Pulled all the plugs and inspected and sprayed some sea foam in each plug hole. Also sprayed seafoam in each carborator. I also re-seated a fuel line that appeared to be a little down on the connector. The engine started right up and ran it for 10-15 minutes. I waited a few hours and it started again.

Thinking I have fixed the issue, I went fishing on Saturday. Got down to the ramp similar issue as the other day.. Slow crank and after a few times was cranking like normal. Was able to get it started. Since it was cold out, I let it warm up for a good 15 - 20 min. Went out on the water and ran it to a few spots and ran it a 4-5k rpm for a good 20 minutes. Then moved it around to a few spots. started each time with out any issue. Ran again and while underway at about 27mph an 4k rpm engine cut out. I never got it started again. The Starter would crank but would not start. finally battery was worn down that i couldn't even crank at all. Had to be towed in. (OUCH)

Get it home and immediately put batteries on charger and get them up to 100%. I have two batteries about 2 years old. they are on a Marine switch that allows to isolate one or the other or use both.

Once they were fully charged, I went to attempt a start all i was getting a single CLICK then nothing. Thinking it was starter, I started to remove it for replacement. I decided it was worth replacing solenoid while i was doing it. Did that and either get nothing, a CLICK only or a partial crank then nothing.

Put a meter on Power feed side of Solenoid and it 12.4v. I don't get 12v on other side of the solenoid when key is turned to start. I get some low number like 4v and it is not steady. Similar results when on the POS post of the starter.

Since this is brand new Solenoid and similar issue to what I was having with old solenoid.

So I am thinking I should go load test both batteries, make sure the cables are cleaned up at contact points.

Any other thoughts of what could be causing the drop in the voltage to Zero?

 

[boobie]

Your thinking is correct !!!! Check the cable connections on the motor also.

 

[WrenchHead]

I was thinking solenoid but because you replaced the solenoid it does sound like a batt or wire connection problem. Do you carry jumper cables in your boat? Quick way to test batt, starter, and connections is jump batt straight to starter.

 

[racerone]

Starters are easy to pull apart and check.---Very easy to inspect too.-----I put new brushes in all the time $5.00 a set.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Before you do anything, do the jumper cable test suggested by Wrenchhead. If you jump the starter from a known strong battery and it cranks the flywheel at least 250 rpm's, it's ok. If it barely cranks with the jumper cables, I'd pull the starter apart and check the commutator on the armature- and the brushes themselves.

 

[tagmansr]

Here was the outcome on this issue. It was a bad ignition switch.

I checked batteries. Both were 12.6V, I cleaned all connectors going to solenoid and starter. Cleaned battery terminals. I started with power meter on the solenoid. 12.6V on the power supply side. (GOOD), Disconnected Starter from Solenoid and had helper turn boat key to start position looking for 12.6V.. Nada. (NOT GOOD). Tested Power Supply from ignition switch to solenoid while key turned to start position. nada. (NOT GOOD) jumped up onto the boat pulled ignition switch pulled Yellow/Red Wire and with meter checked post while key turned to start position NADA/sometime very small amount of voltage. Checked Power Supply wire. FULL 12.6V. Ahh HAAAA.. Went and picked up new ignition switch installed did a quick power test to make sure Yellow/red post has power now when key in start postion. 12.6V.. Connected wire and WOW started on first try without even priming the engine.

I had replaced the starter and solenoid before the switch but I am perfectly happy to have changed the starter because the threads in the Ground were complete soft and detorated so that would have caused me issues sometime soon down the road so money well spent there. Solenoid is probably still good but I don't mind putting $40 in insurance. I will keep that part as a spare in case i need it in the future.

Lastly I got an incredible education on the starter system of this motor which I really like now that it is working. (Hated it while its not working becuase with and 19 year old engine I am always waiting for the shoe to drop and my hobbie to come to an abrupt stop) Now i have to get some time to get out and catch some FALL Stripers while they are in the area.

Thanks to all who have replied and for the forum in general, its a huge help!

 

[Tripp Halbert]

i am having similar problems. is your key switch on the dash or control box? Also, did your starter ever get stuck in the run position to the point where you had to pull the battery cable? and when you tested the different points for solenoid-starter, key switch-solenoid...did you jst click the key over to the run position or actually turn the key like you were trying to start the motor?

 

[Silvertip]

You also learned about "shot gunning" rather than troubleshooting a problem. Always do the simple stuff first. When you throw parts at a problem you spend money needlessly and it takes more time in the long run. As for why the engine died, that was NOT causes by bad batteries. Your engine will run without them -- just don't do that. And load testing batteries is not done by a simple static voltage reading. It needs to be done with a load on the batteries which is why they sell "load testers". Again, one cannot underestimate the value of a factory service manual for your engine -- especially if you intend to do any work on the engine yourself.