1975 evinrude 85hp Help!

Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
21
Just got this motor this fall and have had it out 3-4 times this year. Performed perfectly and had absolutely not issues with it. Idled well and it purred like a kitten. All the cylinders have compressions of 105-108 which isn't great but it will do. I noticed the leak when i first boat the Motor (paid 300 for it). Coming from just underneath the flywheel on the side of the motor toward the transom. Pretty good with engines but this is my first outboard. (worked on other 2-strokes before)

-what is leaking exactly?
-what should I know before I start taking it about to fix it? IMG_1785.jpg IMG_1786.jpg
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
"Charge" coils on the stator. They are the coils that charge the ignition system, not the battery. When bad enough, the motor will be hard to start or won't start at all. You have to replace the entire stator, as individual parts are not available. But first make sure that the present coils are the leaking ones, and not some previous ones that have already been replaced.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
21
And stators can run up to 500 dollars!? At least that is what it is on iboats. I don't have problems starting and it runs like a champ so do i let it go until it does?
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
Ive re-expoxied mine before and they are still going.
You can also pick them up from wrecker places.
To inspect you would need to pop the flywheel. You need a proper flywheel puller for that, not one of those jaw ones as they just bend the flywheel.
Back the nut off but not the whole way as it will stop the flywheel hitting you if it takes a lot of torque to remove it.
The puller will need to have 3 bolt holes on it like a harmonic balancer and make sure you get at least grade 8 bolts and you thread them deep but not so deep you screw into the electronics below it. Dont use a steering wheel puller as two bolts aint enough, These things go on at least 100 foot pounds and get quite attached to where they have being for years
Once you have popped the flywheel, look for the flywheel key (woodruff key). Its crucial to be used to get the timing of the engine right as its all done by the magnets spinning in the flywheel in time with crankshaft position.
When done, reinstall flywheel lining up the key groove in the flywheel and torque down to the proper torque reading, too light its come lose and engine will stall out of time, too tight and you damage the crankshaft taper and it will go crooked at go out of balance.
Crankshaft taper must be absolutely clean, no grease or anything.

Check the wires when you are in there as they often get frayed/corroded and cause problems and check the screws that hold the plate down to the top of the engine, they can rattle lose over time
 
Last edited:

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
If they are leaking, they WILL fail. It's just a matter of time. I suppose if you are a real wiz at it, they could be rewound. I haven't tried it, but if I were looking at $400, I'd be tempted to try. You would have to figure out how many turns and what diameter of magnet wire.
 
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