QD 17 overheats

redlinj

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Several years ago I picked up this motor(QD 17) at a yard sale. It started right up but no water was coming out of the pee hole and the motor started getting hot so I shut it down. I removed the bottom end and checked out the impeller which looked to be in good shape but I replaced it anyway. Started right up again, but again, no water squirting out and the engine got hot and so I shut it off! So, assuming that everything was put back correctly, what should I look at next? In my research I believe this engine did not have a thermostat. I'd hate to take off the head if not necessary but wouldn't have a problem doing it if that is what it will take. Thanks!
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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You are certain the impeller key is installed correct?

What was the condition of the impeller housing and plate? Any scoring, gouges, etc...?

Was the vent clear on the impeller housing?

Did you run compressed air or water up the water line to ensure no blockage?

Is the motor being run in a barrel or on lake? If barrel, is it deep enough? Not self priming, water line must be a few inches below exhaust relief.

Grommet not pinching the water line? Upper grommet too.

No debris in water intake area?
 

redlinj

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I'm never certain of anything. I can always make a mistake! Having said that, the motor gets hot just as it did before I put in the new impeller. It's run in a barrel with water a little below the exhaust vent. Now, assuming that I have replaced everything correctly and no pinching or blockage and housing is good, are there any passages that might need to be cleaned that would require removing the head, which I am prepared to do if necessary. Thanks.
 
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tomhath

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Dec 5, 2007
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Pulling the head is the last thing I would do. First is to take another close look at the water pump, make sure the impeller doesn't turn on the drive shaft (missing key) and make sure the water passages in and out of the pump are open (I've found chunks of broken impeller in a couple of them). Then make sure the water tube is open, they get blocked by all kinds of junk.
 

kbait

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Nov 13, 2007
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And make sure the impeller plate is flat. Slight warp/bend and it won't seal, or pump. If it's warped/bent, I've had success banging 'em flat on a piece of wood w/rubber mallet.
 

redlinj

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Interesting note from High Trim is that the QD 17 is not self priming! If that is the case, then how is the pump system primed? This motor is in a barrel as I speak and the water level is a couple inches below the exhaust vent. I've read that sometimes the pump can't get adequate flow when the engine is in idle and therefore must be put into gear to create more turbulence and pressure. Haven't tried that yet but will today!
 

racerone

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The water pump must be submerged in order for it to work properly.---There should never be a need to put it in gear to get the pump to work.
 

nwcove

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Interesting note from High Trim is that the QD 17 is not self priming! If that is the case, then how is the pump system primed? This motor is in a barrel as I speak and the water level is a couple inches below the exhaust vent. I've read that sometimes the pump can't get adequate flow when the engine is in idle and therefore must be put into gear to create more turbulence and pressure. Haven't tried that yet but will today!

as racer mentioned, the pump needs to be under water....thats how its primed. as far as being in gear to get it to pump, nope. in fact some makes/models of direct drive motors need to have the prop removed while barrel running as the turbulence will hinder or even keep them from pumping at all.
 

redlinj

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OK gentlemen. I may have misunderstood what High Trim said about the pump not being self priming. I initially took it to mean that somehow the QD 17's water pump set up was different than other outboards. Yes, the pump obviously needs to be submerged to operate. So, when I initially changed the impeller I may not have put everything back as it should be.(although I didn't have any leftover parts) However, if everything is good and operates as it should, then what is left to consider as the problem????
 

nwcove

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my qd gave me fits....had the lu off more times than i care to mention. i finally bought a new impeller housing and all was good. not saying that is your issue tho, as a new housing isnt a cheap part.
 

HighTrim

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See post 2. That would about cover it I think. Drop the lower and check these out.
 

redlinj

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Yes, that will happen over the winter. Motor looks good and starts on 1st or 2nd pull. My curiosity will cause me to get to the bottom of this. Thanks to everyone.
!
 

geoffwga1

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Is it possible that the hub of your impeller is turning inside the rubber body.This can sometimes happen and can be hard to pick up on first time around.
 

HighTrim

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Is it possible that the hub of your impeller is turning inside the rubber body.This can sometimes happen and can be hard to pick up on first time around.

Had a few Sierra impellers that did that on the first outing. OR, the key cuts a groove out in the hub.
 

redlinj

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Thanks for the tip. I will look out for that. It is a new Sierra impeller so we'll see.
 

redlinj

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What is a good source for mid 50's Johnson/Evinrude parts? They appear to be hard to find!
 

HighTrim

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You can get some of the items at iboats.

Some need sites like vintageoutboard, nymarine, etc....

AOMCI is the best source. Many members on there that sell parts on the side. Put a wanted ad in the webvertize section.
 

tjandrews

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I'd check the tube going from the pump to the powerhead and make sure it's clear, and that it's inserted properly into the "grommet" at both ends. I have a 9.5 that only half-pumped once. Turned out that the grommet around the tube at the pump housing had been damaged during assembly. Part of it was obstructing the opening and I'm sure it was leaking. Replacing it took care of the problem.
 
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