1987 Evinrude 200 - no spark to certain plugs

[83ProLine]

Ill try posting this again. . . (this time in the correct forum!)


I have a 1987 Evinrude 200 V6 outboard (E200TXCUC) that has been sitting for a while.

In my efforts to get it running, I was not getting ANY spark to the plugs on the motor, and ended up replacing the powerpacks (0583605) with two used ones from a local pick/pull.

The problem now is I am not getting spark to the FIRST plug on the left head, and the MIDDLE plug on the right head.

Some troubleshooting points. . .

- I have new plugs all way around (Champion QL-77JC4), so I know it is not bad spark plugs;

- I have new plug wires all way around, so I know it is not bad plug wires;

- I have switched the coil assembly on those specific plugs with working coils, so I know it is not a bad coil assembly;

- I have switched the wire coming from the powerpack to a different coil and can replicate the problem, so I know the wire coming from the powerpack is not bad;

- Finally, I have switched the powerpacks around and can replicate the problem, so I know it is not bad powerpacks;


My next thought was to pull the flywheel off and check/clean the magnets of crud?

Anybody have any additional thoughts?


Regards,

James

 

[Bosunsmate]

- I have switched the wire coming from the powerpack to a different coil and can replicate the problem, so I know the wire coming from the powerpack is not bad;
What do you mean here?

 

[83ProLine]

LEFT HEAD If I move the wire (coming from the powerpack that attaches to the coil) from the first cylinder (where there is no spark) to the middle or bottom cylinder, I can produce a spark. If I move the middle or bottom wires (again, coming from the powerpack attaching to the coil), where there is verified spark, to the first cylinder, I no longer get a spark. This makes me believe there is nothing wrong with the wires coming from the powerpack. RIGHT HEAD Same thing, no spark to just the middle cylinder.

 

[schematic]

make damn sure your cranking speed is high enough. Try boosting with another battery. Try cranking with the plugs out. These engines like high cranking speed and will send you down the garden path without it....

 

[83ProLine]

No Title

**UPDATE**

After reading MANY, MANY posts from other users, I decided the best bet to further investigate my spark problem was to pop the flywheel off and look at the points and Stator.

Started by soaking the flywheel nut with PB Blaster for a couple days
Used a thin-walled 1 & 7/16 socket to break free the flywheel nut by tapping on the break bar with a rubber mallet
Picked up a cheap bolt puller from Harbor Freight ($13) and upgraded the bolts to Grade 8 to pull the flywheel
Slow and steady was the key and eventually the flywheel popped right off

No damage to the Woodruff Key, which was still in place, and the shaft looked free of damage.

The underside of the flywheel was pretty bad, and the points were even worse. Pictures attached. The flywheel magnets were coated with this black finish, almost like a paint, and the points were pretty rusty.

At this point, I was positive corrosion was the SOLE problem. . . I was half-right.

 

[83ProLine]

No Title

So I spent a few hours with an air drill & wire brush wheel cleaning the magnets and points. Everything looked good afterwards so I put the flywheel back on and fired up the motor.

I checked the spark to all plugs and realized I had a strong spark to all plugs EXCEPT cylinder #1.

So more reading, some additional reading, and then more reading I realized the problem was right in my face. Three of the magnets had broke loose and moved out of position.

So. . .

Started by popping the three magnets off and cleaning the backside free of prior glue/resin
Wiped each clean with Acetone
Used an air drill & wire brush wheel to clean the inside of the flywheel where they need to be re-attached
Stopped by my local SeaDoo dealer to see about this BPR kit for re-attaching the magnets however, I was unable to determine the difference between the kit and marine-grade JB Weld, so I picked up the latter

Ran out of the time tonight, but will get back at it tomorrow. Still need to space the magnets correctly, mix up the resin, and use a heater gun to heat up the wheel and magnets prior to attaching.

I think I'm finally on the right path though. . .

Anybody have any thoughts?

 

[83ProLine]

BEFORE and AFTER PICTURES
​

 

[woody66912]

A 1987 200 does not have points, It has a timer base. I think you have gone too far by removing the magnets. You have two bad coils.

 

[83ProLine]

I think you have gone too far by removing the magnets.

How would you go about re-installing them?!?! The only way I know is to resin them back into place however, to do so, I had to pull them off to clean and prep them first.

 

[Faztbullet]

To much confusing info here...engine has no points as posted earlier,outer magnets are for charging only as hub magnet controls ignition and corrosion unless really really bad wont effect magnetic feild.

 

[83ProLine]

Sorry to use the wrong terminology. Help me understand a few things.... 1. The magnets on the underside of the flywheel are for charging only? 2. What are the eight little silver plates surrounding the Stator called? I incorrectly called them points. 3. What do those little plates do? Thanks for your help.

 

[Faztbullet]

The outer magnets are for the battery charging and ignition charge coils, on the inner hub are the magnets that supply trigger voltage to fire packs. The silver plates arethe ends of stater hub and wires are wound around each hub. You need to fix the loose magnets but if other cyl's were firing the charge coils was getting voltage to send to packs, with dual packs you have bad pack or bad starter as not spinning fast enough. Also you want to check spark on these engines either running or cranking with all plugs removed.