Did I get ripped off $830 and still not right

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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362
Ok I had posted like 4 times on this subject but here I go agin. 99 Jonson 70 great comp 130ish on all 3 new fuel line new champ plugs with gap opened a little new termo new brain box timing set no fuel leaks fuel vent good . Ok so now my problem is when I first start boat it's idles great but when in gear the idle gets lower and lower till it stalls now please don't reply with how is my comp because the boat runs 100% once it gets past it's tantrum. I just had it at the dealer and they told me it needed a termo because it would not come up to temp then the lower pug was not fireing so they step by step checked everything and told me it needed a $350 brain box. So now days later I go to put it in the water and it still will not come off the trailer it bogs and dies. So I got it back across the pond where it was serviced and he saw it doing it the tec richended up the carbs and was like ok your all set ! Ya right next day stall after stall after stall so I whent back and he richended it up agin and 15min later stalling agine. So it's the same thing as when I first gave it to them. Now he is telling me it's the carbs. So once agin it runs great after it's fit but when I go to fish for 15/20 it starts right back up but has now power it just slowly stalls but if I rev it up first I can get it to go and please the comp is 130 because I know someone is going to say sounds like your engine is got low compression lol . So what do you all think.
 

nwcove

Admiral
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May 16, 2011
Messages
6,293
so what is the compression??:D. short of taking it back to the shop and asking to get what you've paid for, you could try gapping the plugs to factory spec, and do an aggressive de-carb using a product like seafoam. if you do the decarb in your driveway.....your neighbors may get upset or possibly call 911. lol
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2010
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Did you replaced your fuel filter when you put new lines on? It does sound like your carbs may have plugged up idle circuit. Just my 2 cents worth, good luck with it.
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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362
The filter is new and I'm on the water right now because I just pulled the carbs and cleaned then. I cleans all the passages with cleaner and a torch tip cleaner and they looked to be in great condition with no debris or sediment at all.
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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Well I thought I had it but I guess I don't when I tried to putting it away on the trailer he kept stalling out. What are the small screws on the side of the carburetors that the mechanic was adjusting to give it more fuel. And what part of the carb is the idle circuit. I did clean all the passages that I saw small and large and all seem to be very clean. Also I noticed that the primer ball is soft after a short time of sitting even when I prime it back up hard it still does not help and neither does giving at the choke.
 

DAN M VAGOS

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Jul 11, 2008
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I have a tachometer in the boat if that's what you mean. And it idles around 1000 RPM. Yes the arm under the flywheel does rotate when you give it the throttle.
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2010
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When you cleaned the carbs did you remove the Welch plugs? They need to come out to give it a through cleaning.
 

DAN M VAGOS

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Jul 11, 2008
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I must say I did not remove the Welch plugs. I have not seen carbs new that where this clean. Also I did look in it with a light and it seems to be a good size hole and very very clean. And we are talking about the one that comes from the top then turns to the bottom of the main jet right ? And also what was the screw that the mechanic was turning on each carb ?
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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362
Also the screw in each carb bole that faces forward is that just a drain or is that a jet behind it ?
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
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Jun 26, 2012
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4,275
Behind the forward facing screw on the carb bowl is an orifice that can be removed and cleaned if memory serves me right.

The screw with the spring on the side is your slow speed needle valve adjustment. It is set as part of the Link and Synch procedure.
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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I just looked in my owners manual for the engine and there is an orifice behind that screw which I did not know .I thought it was just the carburetor bowl drain
 

Barramundi NQ

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Jul 3, 2014
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342
If your fuel bulb goes soft as it dies, try giving the bulb a squeeze. If it comes good, check the fuel pump and filter bowl if it has one. My 2 cents.
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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362
Is the vro a fuel pump and is it buildable. Has anyone heard of them letting gothe fuel side that is ?
 

fireman57

Captain
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,811
Your fuel bulb will go soft when you are running so that is normal. If you want to test for a weak fuel pump when it starts to die have someone squeeze the primer bulb like a madman. If it picks up your fuel pump is weak.
Now we know that the carbs are clean but have you/they checked spark when the engine is warm and under a load. You could have a weak coil that shorts out when it gets hot. By them just adjusting the carbs they are basically trying to mask the problem. We need to remedy it. You have to do a spark test under a load. If you have a buddy and a timing light put it on each plug wire when it acts up and check for spark. You can also have him pull the plug wires one at a time and see if it makes a difference in running. Make sure you give him insulated pliers or he won't be your friend for long.
 

DAN M VAGOS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 11, 2008
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You know he told me it lost spark on # 3 that's why he changed out the cdi box. I think I will have some one pump the ball when it dies and see if that helps.
 

fireman57

Captain
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Aug 24, 2004
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3,811
If you want to test his theory just physically swap number 2 and 3 coil and see if the problem follows. Quick, easy, and foolproof.
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
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Jun 17, 2012
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5,908
Had one of similar vintage/horsepower,not to scare ya but the crank seals were bad,sucking air. Didn't blow it up but it would do just what you are describing. Replaced the seals and all was good. The only thing is a complete teardown is needed to do them. I do them myself,as a shop would cost alot of $$$.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
The adjustable screws on the carburetor are slow speed (idle) needle valves. See your service manual for the proper method to adjust them.

Carburetors are either bad or good. You mention that when you first start the engine, it functions fine. Forget about the carburetors as they do not come and go. If the engine functions from idle to full throttle for any length of time... the carburetors are okay.

Yes, I know you said that the compression is 130 BUT are you sure? Actually that sounds rather high to me. Is this figure a number that the shop rattled off to you OR did you actually check the compression yourself? If not yourself... pick up a cheap compression gauge and check it yourself (with "all" spark plugs removed).

With "all" spark plugs removed... does the spark jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP!? It should be constant and steady.

Don't experiment with the spark plugs... use only the recommended make and type plug with the gap set exactly where it belongs.

Does the fuel primer bulb have a tendency to go flat? (fuel restriction)

Normally, when a engine runs as you describe... runs great, then slowly loses power... later runs great, repeat, repeat, repeat..., the engine is either overheating, running out of fuel, OR the stator under the flywheel is melting down which results in a voltage drop to the powerpack's capacitor which in turn results in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition/spark. A stator in this condition in its initial stages (meltdown) will function normally BUT as it warms up... the problem creeps in.

Usually the affected coils of the stator are two large black coils, and if melting down, one can see a sticky looking substance dripping down from them upon the powerhead area. If this condition exists... replace the stator.

One other thing (Columbo)... the "M" terminal at the ignition switch that the "Black/Yellow" wire is attached to... do the following test:

Key in OFF position. Remove the Black/Yellow wire (kill circuit) from the ignition switch temporarily. Have a volt meter set so that it will register the lowest voltage possible, even a microvolt. Hook that volt meter between that "M" terminal and a good known ground. Turn the key to the ON position. If the volt meter registers any voltage, even a microvolt... replace the ignition switch as a intermittent short exists within the switch. Voltage applied to that Black/Yellow wire would lead directly to the powerpack and will eventually destroy the pack.

Let us know what you find.
 
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