Yet another Johnson Outboard bogging problem, WITH VIDEO! Calling Pro's!

cdn-pk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2009
Messages
162
Sounds like a fuel supply issue. or possible air leak in the fuel lines. does your primer bulb stay full/hard? or possible valve in primer bulb gone bad. i am assuming after three carb rebuilds those are okay.

If you get another person to pump the primer bulb while your accelerate does it respond better?

cheers
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
7
Yes, primer bulb stays hard. I've done the primer bulb trick with no success, even pressed the choke (places fuel in the carbs) nothing. I'm thinking on the electrical side. I'm stumped! Even in the vid I said I’ve taken a small tank (outs the boats tank) and hooked it up…. Same problem!

michael
 

REdington

Seaman
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
69
My engine was doing the same thing about 7 or 8 years ago and finally traced it to the screens in the carb fuel inlets were plugged.
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
7
@ REdington

Thanks, but there are no screens in this carb setup. All jets (any and every hole) were cleared with a cleaning wire and I did the WD40 blow through.
All holes seem to be fine (In all three builds)
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
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@ REdington

Thanks, but there are no screens in this carb setup. All jets (any and every hole) were cleared with a cleaning wire and I did the WD40 blow through.
All holes seem to be fine (In all three builds)
 

Taxus812

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 5, 2013
Messages
173
Im not a di-hard mechanic but looking at what you replaced and with the fact that it sounds good at low RPM here are my thoughts.

Carb vacuum out of balance ? The carbs are possibly out of sync and out of balance with each other. I believe that could cause what I see in the video.
 
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Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
7
@Taxus, I've checked that too believe it or not making sure the linkage opens the throttle body the same, this is driving me nuts! Can't go offshore!!!
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
A couple of things to check. Weak ignition components tend to fail once the engine heats up to normal operating temps. So, when the engine is bogging check for spark on each plug wire. Two good tests, the cyl drop test and by using an inductive timing light on each plugwire. The latter is good if you are on the water and the engine is under load. The flashes from the gun will show spark quality on each plugwire. The engine seems to be running out of fuel. You could have an upstream fuel restriction: a defective anti-siphon valve on the top of the fuel tank, or a bad fuel pickup (restricted) in the tank. Try another (6 gal) fuel tank. Make sure none of the fuel hoses are kinked. If regular bulk fuel hose is used and bent into a tight radius, they can kink, restricting fuel. Older fuel hoses get sensitive to the orientation of the fuel hose bulb. Best if the arrow on the bulb is pointing in a generally upward direction. If it's laying downhill in the spashwell, older bulb can cause flow problems. (the ball valves don't always work well) The plastic fuel pickup inside the tank on older boats is not clamped to the tank head. It's just pushed onto the hose barb. Sometimes the plastic pickup get loose on it's mount and air can get sucked into the fuel line at that point (the top of the tank.) During periods of high suction, it will draw air and fuel-a problem. I've seen sand get into the ball valve of the anti-siphon valve, causing poor restricted ball valve movements and-fuel restrictions. Clean the ball valve with some aerosol some carb cleaner and visually manipulate the ball valve to be sure it's movement is normal.
 
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Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
7
@coolbri70, Linkage is moving I should say for the timing. As I look under the flywheel I can see the linkage move like it’s advancing, so I’m "assuming" it’s advancing.
@emdsapmgr, you’ve brought up some good points and I’ll go through them, the fuel thing seems most people here are looking into. It just seems like it’s dropping cylinders to me, something like it goes into emergency…and too, I’ve disconnected them for a test and it still does the same, ARrrrrrr!
Thanks for everyone’s input here in the forums, obviously I’m missing something getting this thing up and running at WOT. When..a big when, I get this up and running I'll post for others to see, share the knowledge!
 

Dbbpeco

Cadet
Joined
Jun 29, 2014
Messages
12
Went through my carbs 6 times cleaning them with spray carb cleaner & wire. Gave up & paid to have it looked at. Cost me $270 to learn if you don't dip the carbs over night, they aren't clean!
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Yeah no offense intended here, but just because they were gone through 3 times, doesnt mean you didnt miss something.

I always remove the fixed jets. You need a tool for this.

WD40 is not a good solvent for this either.

Take them apart fully, soak overnight, blow out with compressed air and solvent, blow dry and rebuild in clean environment. Then linc n sync.
 

c6mcfall

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
90
I'd take Daselbee up on his offer... I did, he know's his stuff!

>>You are not far from Mims....bring it up and we can fix it right up.
 

c6mcfall

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
90
I'd take Daselbee up on his offer... I did, he know's his stuff!

>>You are not far from Mims....bring it up and we can fix it right up.
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
7
@ HighTrim @ None taken, everyone here is willing to help! Yes, I've taken out the fixed jets, you need a thin screwdriver for this and I’ve taken them to a friend that has carb cleaner that you never want to get on you, soaked overnight, ya-da,ya-da. The weekend is coming, I have some good advice from the forum and I’ll press on.
 

rothfm

Ensign
Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Messages
913
Hi,

My Brother responded to your youtube vid the other day...He copied/pasted my reply to him after emaiing me, onto your vid.

This really really looks like a Cylinder drop issue. One of the posters here, like we put onto your Youtube comments, says to use a timing light to monitor spark. I still feel like you are initially running on all 4, then dropping one...Or just running on 3. Erratic spark or no spark is not always evident. There are proven ways to monitor spark correctly, and rule it out. Also CDI Corp has very good Ignition troubleshooting steps on thier website.

You squeezed the bulb and no difference, try spraying a mix into the throats of each carb when its failing...Probably no difference, if its not a fuel delivery issue.

The way its running, seems like a non-firing cylinder. Could be all wrong here, but those components like to to idle, or when cool...they breakdown when hot and under load.

Pease reply so we know were this goes.
 
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