killswitch adjustment?

relics hunter

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I have a 1970 johnson 6hp tiller 6r-70b that Ive been working on and it has the type of killswitch which is operated by the throttle being lowered down to the stop position. I have found that the kill function is engaging just past the shift position which is clearly to soon.
so my question is there a way for this to be adjusted?
 

racerone

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I can not recall the kill switch being installed like that on a 1970 model 6 HP.----You will have to post pictures as it sounds like a " custom " installation.
 

Rick.

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A kill switch is a device that would kill the motor if you were to fall overboard with a lanyard attached to you and the kill switch. It sounds to me like you are referring to the tiller throttle? Is that correct? Let us know. Best of luck.
Rick.
 

racerone

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I believe there is some confusion here .---There never was a kill switch installed on the handle when it left the factory, likely there are no wires visible there..--------Perhaps there are other issues with the motor that are causing it to stall.----The trouble shooting would start with a compression test .---Then followed by a check to see if spark on each lead will jump an actual air gap of 1/4" or more.---Perhaps the motor is only running on one cylinder !
 

Tim Frank

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^^^^ agree.
The twist grip throttle is not "killing" the motor, the motor is stalling because it is not running at 100%.
Troubleshoot per the manual.
 

Tim Frank

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So, when you turn the handle ​to "STOP", it stops....no problem....it's just earlier than you'd like. :)

But you've not taken the time to give us much info to help you.

How long have you had the motor? (that should tell whether you know some history, and whether it's a new problem or the motor has never run properly for you)

What work have you done and why?(did you test components systematically, or are you just throwing parts at it ?)

Do you have a manual or are you just " good with machinery" and winging it? (some stuff with these O/Bs IS obvious, but there are some subtleties that are easy to miss if you haven't worked on a specific model and don't have an instruction sheet)
 

OptsyEagle

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"To Stop It : There is no kill button on these motors up to about 1979, you just retard the throttle twist grip as far clockwise as it will go and the motor should die, it not, then choke it to kill it. At 1979 there was a kill button located below the idle adjustment knob on the front cowling."

--------------------

That is not a kill switch. When you turn the throttle fully clockwise you are just reducing the gas and retarding the spark timing to the point that the motor dies. If you think it is happening too soon then you can look at the throttle cam to ensure it is sync'd properly with your carbs roller (the same link above gives you instructions for this). If that is sync'd right and you are getting good spark it is probably as good as it gets. Although all my smaller motors idle down pretty good they do pretty much die soon after the throttle moves past the shift zone. Never saw the need to label the "slow" zones since my motors were usually dead whenever I got there, but I guess my boat was moving very slow then.

They should label the throttles: Fast, Start, Shift, Dead. lol.
 

racerone

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That is the confusion as indicated earlier.----There never was a " kill switch " intalled on the handle at the factory.
 

relics hunter

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So, when you turn the handle ​to "STOP", it stops....no problem....it's just earlier than you'd like. :)

But you've not taken the time to give us much info to help you.

How long have you had the motor? (that should tell whether you know some history, and whether it's a new problem or the motor has never run properly for you)

What work have you done and why?(did you test components systematically, or are you just throwing parts at it ?)

Do you have a manual or are you just " good with machinery" and winging it? (some stuff with these O/Bs IS obvious, but there are some subtleties that are easy to miss if you haven't worked on a specific model and don't have an instruction sheet)

OK good points. let me point out the motor is running great and seems to idle fine I just wasn't sure if it needed to to have the handle in alignment as per the RPM being high/low and causing future problems. It has a rebuilt carb. new water pump and lower unit fluids changed comp. is 90 on both cyl.
As for me I just like to fix things, I use manuals as well as the web for info and so it's more a hobby than anything else. I hate seeing old things waste away when they can have renewed life.
 
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