88 150 new r/r new stator no charge?

[71Windsor]

this engine is the only one that's giving me trouble. my other engines I replaced the parts and problem solved

this is the 9amp engine I replaced the r/r new and a brand new stator.

background. I purchased a r/r that was sold as new but when I received it the unit was used. I tried it and no luck. so I went a purachsed a brand new one still no luck. so I purchased a new stator and nope still not getting anything. I checked wiring for continuity across several area before and after where the wiring goes into plugs where do I go next?

 

[emdsapmgr]

Do you mean you replaced the power pack? You may need to check the cranking voltage output on the stator and the timer base. Check out this excellent troubleshooting website: cdielectronics.com. They have your cranking output voltage specs. You will need a special "peak-reading" voltmeter to do this test. A household voltmeter won't do it.

 

[71Windsor]

I have not replaced the power pack as there are 2 and costly. I purchased and replaced a new rectifier / regulator and a new stator. I did not touch either power pack or the timing base. It was my understanding the timer base did not have much to do with the charging circuit.

Side note - CDIElectronics is where I purchased my r/r from through my local dealer I specifically asked for a cdi elec. made r/r and it took me a few weeks to find a dealer who was able to provide me with one.

 

[71Windsor]

If you read through the CDI literature it says not to use a maintance free deep cycle battery. the battery im using which was purchased new 3 days ago and charged before installation is a deep cycle maint free. however that wouldn't stop the engine from charging all together I wouldn't think? the engine should still be trying to put out more then 12.45 volts id assume. last night on my way back into the ramp with my lights on it was steady at 11.3 / 11.5 all the way in then of coarse if the lights where off it would go back to around 12.23 12.33 some where in there.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Not sure just what ignition problem you are having. The rectifier/regulator is part of the charging system and is unrelated to the ignition system on that engine. If your engine is not charging, then the stator and the rectifier/regulator are the components you need to be looking at. If you have an ignition problem, you are looking at the wrong components. The ignition system consists of the timer base, stator, power packs and coils. The coils are usually pretty reliable and you already have a new stator. So do you have a spark problem on some spark plug wires? That engine does have two identical power packs, which control the spark to each head. They can be swapped for testing purposes.

 

[71Windsor]

that's just it I don't have any spark issues I checked by jumping the spark across the gap and it looks good. Im at a lost and don't want to throw any more money into it. until I can get a more definitive diagnosis

 

[emdsapmgr]

I misunderstood your problem. It's clearly stated that you are having a charging issue. Sorry for my misinterpretation. From the measurement testing you've done, it appears that the engine is, in fact, not recharging the battery. There were two rectifier/regulators used this year, depending on which charging system you have. Since yours is the 9/10 amp, hopefully you have installed the correct one. 583529 was the factory original and it supercedes to the current 585195. I hope that CDI's part number corresponds to your needs. You are correct, you should see perhaps 13.5+ volts after running the engine for a while. You need not be using a deep cycle battery for starting. A normal marine starting battery will be the best for this application. Still, it should be charging. Looks like you've tended to all the correct details, yet it is still not charging. Time to check the stator. It has two sets of coils. One set for creating ignition voltage, the other set for charging. Since you have fire in the ignition, you need to check the stator output on the charging side. Section 7 of your factory manual has a test procedure. It requires a 40 amp ammeter, so be careful. If the stator ouputs charging amperage, the culprit must be with the rectifier/regulator or something in the engine wiring harness.

 

[71Windsor]

So I'm reviving the thread because basically I'm still not getting a charge. I read on the cdi website that if I didn't replace the original problem that a new part could and has a high likely to be ruined. The example they used was, if you have a charging issue and decided to just go ahead and replace the reg/rect because some one told you or you've read that it's the usual culprit when I fact your stator could been the issue then the bad stator could in fact cause the new reg/rect to fail and be a waste of money.

So with this in mind I went to cdi' website and ordered a new stator, and. reg/rect straight from them.

So here's my questions.

1 Timer base, mine shows no signs of failure, engine runs great. Safe to say this is ok? Does this have a direct affect on the charging system?
2 New reg/rect from cdi has fins on the bottom that protrude into the mounting area. I can assume the purpose is to pull heat away from the unit. I've doubled checked the numbers before ordering and it's what cdi pulls up when I select my engine so it must be a modification by cdi.
3 Lastly looking at the picture on the cdi website of the ign charging system I see they have the power pack as being a key aspect in the flow chart they have. My engine has two power packs so I would be safe in saying that my particular engine does not rely on the power packs as part of the charging system.

Now I haven't been out to run the engine on the water still a bit cold up here but per the instructions that were supplied from cdi running the engine in a drum per there recommendations on diagnosing and trouble shooting I should see a increase in voltage which I am not.

Before I spend many many hours on building a new wire harness what am I missing? This is bugging me I'm a expert with electrical in automobiles custom built a full new wire harness for a higher end Mercedes with a turbo engine swap including even keeping the fiber optic wiring intact so the car was 100% functional as it should be oem yet I can't figure out this simple charging issue.

In exception of 2 power packs and a the timer base everything's new, I've checked the leads from plug end to plug end for every wire that is involved in the charging circuit, as well as most of the other wiring,and wiring has continuity all over the harness.n

I just ordered a well used and weathered wire harness off ebay so I can make a new one with out damaging my original harness.

Last question and I hope the above gets some answers if not then I hope this answered is it possible to purchase the big round red plug that's at the start of the wiring harness? The rest of the connectors are not a big deal i can re-pin the wiring or just concert to a different style dongle but that primary header plug is proprietary and I swap motors around a bit with my business so having a universal plug is important

 

[SparkieBoat]

you can get the big red plugs (wiring harnesses on ebay everyday. I am not sure why you are getting no charge, did you try the all of the test for the voltage regulator? you should have all of the test listed on the install sheet that came with your regulator. you need to check the stator also, both sides.. the cdi website has some very good troubleshooting guides.

 

[Will Bark]

I'm no expert but one thought does come to mind and that is have you checked your battery negative cable for a good clean connection at the engine?

 

[Faztbullet]

Check to see if you the correct unit as the CDI number is 193-4204. Also if it has the purple wire see that it has 12v when key is on as this turn R/R on/off

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/193-4204.pdf