1979 Evinrude 35 Newbie Advice

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
I just reclaimed my deceased grandfather's boat. This is my first experience owning a boat. It's a 1979 Lowe 16 ft. Aluminum boat that he finished out with plywood. It has a 1979 Evinrude 35 that the previous owner said was having problems (wouldn't go over 10 mph). I put the rabbit ears on it, and it appeared to start and rum just fine, but I haven't put it in the water yet. What kind of maintenance should I do? I tried to check the air filter and I cannot even find it. I'm going to replace the plugs for sure. It also needs a new ignition switch (as well as a new wiring harness). Can I just get a generic ignition switch, or do I need one specifically for this motor? The prop is bent and cracked. Where should I get a new prop? Is stainless worth the extra money? I'm currently removing and replacing the plywood and hopefully I'll get the new wiring harness made tomorrow. I know this is a somewhat scattered post. If I'm in the wrong section, I apologize. I'm fairly handy with cars, but I have very little experience with boats or 2 strokes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,274
There is no air filter, there should be an air box on the front of the carb or a screen but there is no filter in the box.
Use a marine ignition switch, one that has the key that when you push the key in it activates the choke.
Props can be purchased here at iboats, through online retailers or most any marina. As to aluminum or SS that's up to you and your budget but consider the type of waters you will be using it on. Lots of rocks or stumps, I'd suggest aluminum.
Check that it's pumping water good and change the lower unit oil and maybe new spark plugs would be a good start.
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
I didn't even think this posted. Sorry for not checking back on it. I've located the problem that caused it not to go over 10 mph, I believe. The previous owner had the wrong ignition switch in it, and the choke was wired to an ignition hot terminal causing it to be on at all times. Now, however, I've discovered that the propeller shaft seal is leaking. I noticed a little bit of gear oil leaking off the prop, and drained the lower unit. It seemed to be mostly full of water with very little gear lube. Given that I'm not experienced with boats, but rather handy with cars... Should I try to replace the shaft seal myself, or pass it off to a shop? What would a shop charge for this? It does seem to be pumping water fine. Any particular gear oil I should use for this motor?
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
yes the sites got technical problems so its not really easy to follow at the moment.

If youve worked on cars then boat motors shouldnt make you too concerned.
If its being used in salt water they can be more difficult to work on because the bolts seize up in the housings a lot, but there a ways to deal with those problems too.
The shops will charge a few hundred dollars for this. The seals probably only cost $30 or so.
The shop will pressure test it so you know which seals leaking. The hardest ones to do , i find, are always the prop seals so since you know thats leaking you can just do the others as back up too. (the shift shaft and drive shaft seals)
You should also get a couple of new washers for the fill plugs.
Dont whatever you do undo the screw with the phillips head as that makes the shift linkage come lose right inside the gearbox

The oil is just standard marine gear oil. Its just like car oil but lasts much longer with water in it. The 500ml bottles generally go for about $8 from a car parts shop you shouldnt need 500ml in a 35 so just one should do. Fill it up from the bottom plug, otherwise itl get air bubbles and the level wont be right leading to the top bearing running dry
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
That Phillips screws was tempting, but I checked a few posts before removing anything, and avoided that mess. The washers on the drain/fill plugs actually look very new. I know the previous owner had some work done on the lower unit very recently, although, obviously, didn't replace the shaft seal. Ok, if it'll save me a few hundred, I'll try this one myself. What's a good source for the seals on a unit this old? I assume I should rebuild the water pump as long as I'm in there, too?
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
Yep do the water pump impeller and housing if it looks worn back much.
Whereabouts are you? THis website use to provide a posters town and country which was good.
If you are in New Zealand i could give you some tips on where to by. I think this site sellers the water pumps but im doubtful they sell the seals,
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
I live in rural east Texas, it's very doubtful that I could buy anything locally. I was asking about online merchants.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
You will find 79 isnt that old. Most motors look very similar from now to mid last century.
Anything over 1955 is pretty much easy to get most parts for although some rare parts are very expensive.
A 1979 should have pretty easily obtainable parts
Have you got a model number off it, itl be like 35 something something something
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
The model # is 35952a. It's a 79' Evinrude 35 HP, with remote steering, electric start, and manual tilt.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
well that didnt work.
its on that website i mentioned at post #10
All parts seem available. Get the impeller housing cup if you can afford it, an extra $12 bucks.
The rest of the water pump kit is $40 ish
make sure you order the quantity of seals required per assembly, ie two on prop shaft, two on driveshaft and get the o rings too
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
Okay. Thanks so much for all your help. I'll get everything and try to do it right the first time.
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
Does this motor have a charging system? The voltage remains the same whether or not it's running.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
It does have a charging system. 99% of the no-charging problems are caused by a blown rectifier. That happens by running it with battery disconnected or connecting it backwards (you can't disconnect it fast enough to prevent damage).
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
Ok... So I've removed the rectifier to test it. I got the CDI Installation and Troubleshooting guide. It says to measure the resistance both ways between the red wire and two yellow wires, the measure it both ways between the black wire and two yellow wires. Only problem is... I have a red wire, a yellow/blue wire, a yellow/gray wire, and a yellow wire.
 

jmdale1984

Cadet
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
10
Here's what I get with my Fluke. Red (+)to any other wire (-) reads "OL". I assume that means Ohms low. Red (-) to any other wire (+) reads about 32 kOhms. Beyond that I don't know what to check.
 

Cricket Too

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 14, 2003
Messages
1,732
I found this post in a search because my 30hp is having a charging issue as well and am trying to find the resistance values I should be seeing when I check my reg/rec also.

​I obviously can't help you with those but I just wanted to point out to you that 2 strokes run filthy normally and with yours having been run with the choke on there's a good chance what you saw dripping off the prop was just unburnded 2 stroke oil. You will get that even under normal conditions...there's always unburned oil that will drip down the exhaust housing and out of the prop or run down the skeg...fools a lot of people into thinking they have a gear oil leak. Just an FYI.
 
Top