How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

[jimpittman]

I have gear oil leaking from my lower unit from above the water pump and out the exhaust through the prop. I have a lower unit oil seal leak I am sure. I don't know how to remove the lower unit. I see five bolts to seperate the bottom, but how do I separate the shift and power shaft from the bottom. I had an old 55hp evinrude and you had to disconnect the shift column just below the powerhead behind the starter. I don't have a manual. This motor is old and runs very good, but there is some rusty bolts so I don't want to try to remove more than is necessary.<br />Any help you guys could give me would be very helpful. How about an old manual? Does anyone have one?<br />Jimpittman

 

[wilde1j]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

You need a manual before you begin. How are you going to find the leak and replace the seal(s) w/o one? There's too much to describe here. If you've never opened a LU before, you'll be glad if you have a really complete manual (and a PL for the LU wouldn't hurt either).

 

[Greg Lawrence]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

how bad a leak is it? just keep adding oil to the sucker and run it..

 

[almost retired again]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Hello Jimpittman,<br />Are you sure that you have a leak in the lower unit? Sometimes unused fuel and oil mixture will cause a person to think that they have an oil leak. The only sure way to find out is to pressure/vacucm check it.<br />It's not to hard of a job to remove the gearcase, but once you have it removed it will require special tools to get inside of it, and you should have special tools to change most of the seals.<br />Oh by the way remove the gear lube before doing the pressure/vacuum test. If the gear lube looks milky then it's for sure that you have a leak somewhere. A pressure test might reveal something easy to fix.<br />Hope this helps, but if you still need to remove the gearcase re-post and I'll lead you through it.

 

[Solittle]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Jim I'm a bit confused by your post. Oil does not go through the water pump and then out of the exhaust. There is a seal at the base of the water pump but that seperates the water from the gearcase. I agree with the guys that you need to check for water in the gearcase first. If no water in the oil, the oil that you are seeing comming from the exhaust is normal and nothing to be concerned about.<br /><br />On removing the lower unit - unless you have lots of guts I would get a manual first - check at your library. The driveshaft comes down from the powerhead with the lower unit and not up from the lower unit. The gearshift rod is most likely connected just below the carb (I'm not farmiliar with the year of your engine). There is probably one or more bolts that are sort of hidden behind the trim tab in addition to the ones you can see. Don't mess with it unless you have to and not without a manual. If you do need to get in there might as well replace the water pump while you're at it.

 

[Lugnut36]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

I have a 1972 evinrude 125 , and just to let you know i did also in fact have a leak at the seal that is under neath the water pump especially when the engine was tilted upward but when i tilted it down whatever had leaked out would come out the prop opening very slowly. how it got from point a to point b i have no idea. it was an easy fix i pulled the water pump and the plate below it the bearing has an o ring around the outside of it and if your careful you can punch out the shaft seal and replace it too. ( for my year anyways, yours might be different)

 

[jimpittman]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Thanks guys,<br />You were great to reply back to me with good advice and some good points to check and so quickly. I have an outboard repair friend coming over saturday to take a look see and give further advice.<br />This is a great forum. You are a tremendous help to the boating public.<br />I'll let you know the results later.<br />jimpittman

 

[jimpittman]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

OK guys, I got a repair manual like you suggested. It is not an original and is not too comprehensive but it does show most of the information i need. I started removing the lower unit of this 1976 Evinrude 135 motor and I can't reach the connecting pin for the shift linkage. My question is, do I have to remove the carbs to get to this or is there some kind of trick to it. How do I get the pin out. If I remove the carbs can I reuse the gaskets if I don't tear them up? I am dead in the driveway until I can figure this out. PS my friend?? didn't show up to help me. I am going it alone.<br />thanks <br />jimpittman

 

[wilde1j]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

You need a LONG extension to reach the pivot bolt. It can be done w/o removing the carbs, not easy, but can be done. I had a '73 135 and did it a number of times.

 

[jimpittman]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Hey wildeone, thanks for the reply!!<br />I got the pivot bolt out but it looks like a small pin is connecting the shift rod to the pivot arm slap dab under the carb and I can't reach it. What am I supposed to do once the pivot bolt is removed? If you can help i'd appreciate it.<br />jimpittman.

 

[jimpittman]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Come on guys don't quit on me now. I am almost home with this lower unit.<br />I have all bolts and connections disconnected and I expected the lower unit to come apart somewhat easy, but I was mistaken. it won't move. <br />What next? What is the best way to attack this last step. I don't want to hit it too much. I don't have a good feel for how to procede. Please help!!!<br />Thanks<br />jimpittman

 

[75RUDE135]

Re: How do I remove the lower unit from 1975 evinrude 135 hp

Man, I have an original owners manual and an original repair/parts manual. I'm sure I could scan and email you the instructions in PDF. I'm having problems myself and am likley going to have to remove the lower unit. Its the last ditch effort. Since were runnnin the same great motor that we are soo close on getting it running perfectly, I feel your pain.

See my post. Its long, but I would like to hear your thoughts on what I should do.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=554409&p=3891141#post3891141

Here is a post I just poset tonight..

"Ok, I'm nearing the sell it and give up point.. but I'm too OCD for that probably. I'm so close to the boat being perfect! Recap of the problem. Compression is awesome, seems to shift very well, new gear case lube. The old lube was definately old...black as night, but no metal on the magnet (just some shiny dust when I whipe it off on a towel.. metal dust smaller than the head of pin. New Solaris Rubex propellor and greased it up good(so not a spun hub).I adjusted the timing as the orginal manual said. I've been on the lake with it twice since my last tread. Thank god I have a trolling motor.. lol.

Both times before I hit the lake, I put the muffs on, i push the button and it starts and idles great. I shift into forrward gear.. the prop spins in the correct direction, and as i increase the spead the prop also increases spead. It spins FAST. Same in reverse.

I get it in the lake. I start it up..starts up nice, sounds great.. Put it in drive and all I get is splashing and bubling watter from the prop spinning. If I bring it up to where the prop is half way visible, its spinning like any other boat i've seen spin..throwing a lot of water up in the air but not in a completely rear spray.. kind of up and a little out. The boat doesnt move. If I do this in reverse, it splashes (significantly to where it worried me I'd take on water. I have a video of this, I need to get it from a buddy and I'll post it.

One thing I noticed. If I put it in reverse, full throttle down... I hear some clicking. So i did that no more.

So how is it even possible that if the thing is shifting, spinning very fast, that the dang boat wont move!? lol. Its killing me guys. The boat is light..17 foot and I can pick the front of the trailor myself and move it.

I look at this diagram.. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/jo...ction=Gearcase

same as in original owner manual and part manual. And I dont see a shear pin.. is their any other kind of safety piece possibly? And would my prop spin like it does it is in safe mode?

I am thinking maybe the timing needs to be adjusted because over time the motors timing specs have just changed? Does anyone know how to easily do that without just checking each grove and starting it up and trying each one? And I guess i just need to take the lowe unit off..find something on youtube on how to do it and check all the gears and see if they all look ok?

Any Ideas? Guys If you can solve this over forum, you are a boating mechanic god! And I will worship you! haha. But really, pleeeeease help. Its going to drive me nuts. I want to catch some dang fish!! The trolling motor isnt going to cut it. lol "

So send me a message and lets figure out what you need. Its actaully a very precise manual. I think it will help you a lot. Also, if you end up giving up and seals are the only problem, I will buy your motor!. lol. But I'd rather you get it running. Such a beast of an motor.