1979 Evinrude 115 Outboard - Rough Idle and WOT - PLease help

woolsac

Cadet
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
14
Hello. Ran into an issue with my 1979 Evinrude 115 outboard the other day. I will do my best to explain the issue as well as the troubleshooting outputs thus far. I am looking for additional guidance on what I should check before breaking into the engine internals.

Sorry for the long explanation....

Here is background info as well as the issue:
The engine never had issues for 7 years of my ownership. I conducted most of the maintenance as well as winterization every winter. Last summer, the boat sat as I was deployed over the summer. This summer, after taking the boat out of winterization, it had a slight issue with idling as it seemed to sputter, but still ran, and ran great at WOT. i figured that I was still burning through the old, stabilized gas. I was going to get the carbs repaired at the end of this season knowing that it had an idle issue. But that isn’t the big issue. Out on the lake the other morning cruising at WOT, the engine suddenly lost power and stalled out. I sat there for a minute, and turned it over again. Started right up but now the motor ran fairly "bumpy" and rough, but still sputtered at idle (this time more than the previous slight sputter). I then tried to bring it up slowly to WOT but stalled again when close to WOT. I was able to quickly turn it over again, but this time i slowly made my way back to dock at the slow, sputtery idle. When I put it into neutral at the dock, it cut out on me. I packed it up that day and started combing the forums for some help.

I heard various things about "simple" fixes like ensuring no cracks in the fuel line, bad fuel pump, carb cleaning to “advanced” fixes like new head gasket, cylinder repair, rings and pistons.

So I took the advice from this forum on running a few tests first….
1. I checked to ensure that the overheat sensor/alarm was working. Note that I did not hear one at the time of my issues out on the lake. I grounded the temp sensors earlier today and heard the alarm sound. OK those work. Assume that I did not have an overheating/thermostat problem. Correct?

2. Compression test (followed JB’s instructions). 1 cylinder (starboard top) at 120psi, 2 cylinder (port top) at 115 psi, 3 cylinder (starboard bottom) at 70 psi, and 4 cylinder (port bottom) at 118 psi.

So it looks like the issue can lie in the 3 cylinder.

My question is, what should I do next? I read and heard different courses of action. I heard to rebuild the carbs (I should probably do this any way since I never cleaned/repaired them in my 7 years of ownership…. Not sure about other previous owners) as maybe one of the cylinders is not getting fuel to seal the rings. I have also noticed some fuel dripping from the base of the air silencer box and its drain hose…. Maybe the float valve is not closing anymore.
I have also heard that I need to remove the starboard side head to inspect the #3 wall and piston for damage. Is it simple to remove the head to inspect? Can the head slide off and on easily enough without damaging anything further? Do I need to ensure the pistons are in a certain location to remove the starboard side head?

I heard a simple check to see if it’s not a piston/ring issue (but a fuel issue) is to put gas/oil into the cylinder and run the compression test again. If the compression goes up, its fuel starvation from a bad carb. True?

I appreciate any help and guidance. Based on my course of action, I will probably have additional questions to follow up with.
Thanks for the help!!!!!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,303
Step #1 is to take the head off.----Just 10 bolts to take out and the head is off.----And the hose from thermostat housing.------Nothing else needs to be done , just 10 bolts.
 

BonairII

Commander
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Jun 7, 2011
Messages
2,727
Try a decarb first. Maybe you'll get lucky...and it's just a stuck ring.
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Could be an overheating issue. It's possible to have an overheat lockup without getting a hot horn alarm. Pull the head covers off the heads and check the water passages for any restricting debris. The pull the heads and 1. Inspect the condition/location of the rubber water deflectors. Make sure the water passages around the cylinders are clear. 2. check for cyl liner scuffing and ring damage on the low compression piston/head. If you have any damage at all, continued running for a decarb will not help the powerhead any.
 

SigSaurP229

Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
Nope its not that simple as a stuck ring with compression variance of that much cylinder three is toast. You are looking at a rebuild pull the head and see how bad the cylinder wall looks
 

woolsac

Cadet
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
14
thanks for the responses. I will pull the head to check cylinders, i will also check out the water passages too while in there. crossing fingers!
 

woolsac

Cadet
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
14
Sig, you were correct. I feared the worst and it seems to be the case. Took the head off to find a piece of a broken ring that must have bounced around inside the cylinder. damage to the head as well as to the piston. The side walls don't look too bad in my opinion or at least as bad as it could have been....









Looking for opinions.... Advice I have heard between all the mechanics around here is to just buy a newer engine as repairing the blown rude will open up a can of worms and my wallet. Thoughts from anyone if the damage above can be fixed on a budget?

If i were to sell it... what could i get. I heard with the damaged cylinder, the only value is in the lower unit, which is in excellent condition. what is a lower worth?

I also was considering upgrading a 03 evinrude 115. Wanted to get feed back from anyone who might have experience with this engine if it will fit the current transom mounting boat pattern, let alone fit on the trimate's transom.

Thanks for the help!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,303
These 1979 V-4 motors are very good / simple and easy to trouble shoot.----Trouble today is that dealers sell what people want to buy .----People buy new stuff because it is simpler to operate a new motor with a computer on it.-----Costs motre money but that does not appear to be a problem.-----Picking up a 1995 Evinrude 115 hp V-4 from a dealer.----Cosmetically looks to be 3 years old with one bad cylinder.----Deemed not worth fixing at dealer labour rates.
 
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