Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

[HansL]

Hi all

We have just been owner to a Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965, and I have some questions about the electrical connection.
Have read the manual and understand most of it, but not all. To that comes the problem that I some parts (starter switch, regulator).

Here comes some questions and guesses. All comments are welcome!

Stop the motor
1. To stop the motor the two black cables to the breaker plate will be grounded. Is this right?
2. The plan to do this is by button controlling a double relay that connect the two cables to ground. Is this ok or are the other things happening in the original starter switch?

Safety switches
1. The ?cut out switch?. Understand that this will be activated if the motor is running too much (and the vacuum from the carburetor becomes too high.) Is this right?
3. The ?safety switch?. This is connected to the movement of the breaker plate. I do not understand the function?
4. And how is the connections supposed to be working? I see the connection but I cannot figure that out.
5. What is the function of the white cable from the two switches? It is not connected today but it seems to be connected to the solenoid. Why and how? Little unsure then the solenoid not is original (but have an empty connection.)

Regulator
1. We also need a regulator. My guess is that this is a real standard type (same as in a old car). Is this right?
2. Is this needed for running the motor as long that the generator not is connected? (My guess is no.)

Big thanks in advance to this grate forum!
Hans, Sweden

ps. We also some problems starting the motor.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

Stop the moter
1. Yes, the two black wires coming out from the mag plate must be shorted togeather to kill the engine.
2. No need to use relays, just connect one black wire to each side of a push button switch, when you push the switch it shorts the two black wires togeather and kills the engine.
Saftey switches
1. Yes, it will short out one set of points to keep the engine from over reving.
3. The starter solenoid is grounded through the saftey switch.
4&5. The white wire is the ground wire for the starter solenoid. Look at the schematic below, it might help you out.
Regulator
1. I would use a marine regulator instead of an automotive regulator.
2. If the generator is not being used, you don't need a regulator.
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/61_66_40HP.jpg
What type of starting problems are you having?

 

[HansL]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

Stop the moter
1. Yes, the two black wires coming out from the mag plate must be shorted togeather to kill the engine.
2. No need to use relays, just connect one black wire to each side of a push button switch, when you push the switch it shorts the two black wires togeather and kills the engine.
Saftey switches
1. Yes, it will short out one set of points to keep the engine from over reving.
3. The starter solenoid is grounded through the saftey switch.
4&5. The white wire is the ground wire for the starter solenoid. Look at the schematic below, it might help you out.
Regulator
1. I would use a marine regulator instead of an automotive regulator.
2. If the generator is not being used, you don't need a regulator.
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/61_66_40HP.jpg
What type of starting problems are you having?

Thanks Daviet
Grate input and best schematic

Stop 1&2.
This surprised me. I was quite sure the both cables should be connected to ground to stop the motor.

Safety 3
The solenoid we have is seems to be through the chassis, at least it connect when I connect +12 V to one of the two small terminals. I do not understand the "connection", or the "functions", between the safety switches and the solenoid.

Safety 4&5
Grate schematic. (I have seen a lot but this is the first that I really can follow.) But still I do not get the function of the switches.
One of the black cables to the mag plate get connected to ground if both switches are activated (the motor is over reving AND the mag plate is at "low speed".
Is this right?
What is the connection to the forth terminal on the solenoid?

Have an other forum post about our starting problems, click on the link, "We also have..."

Thanks, Hans

 

[racerone]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

If this motor is electric shift then the generator / voltage regulator must be in good working order.

 

[F_R]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

Connecting the two black wires together stops the motor.

Safety switch function is as follows: With the CORRECT solenoid, applying 12v to one of the small terminals starts the motor IF the other small terminal is grounded via the safety switch. Note the vacuum cut-out switch is mounted on plastic. Therefor it is not grounded. The safety switch does double duty by providing a ground return for the vacuum cut-out switch, but only at slow throttle settings. That prevents it from operating at fast settings, which could cause a mysterious mis-fire.

No, you cannot use a car voltage regulator. You need a 10 amp regulated unit. Furthermore, it has to be a type "A" field. No cars have only a 10 amp charging system. If you don't limit it to 10 amps, you will burn up the generator armature. New OEM regulators are about $100. Get used to it.

 

[HansL]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

Connecting the two black wires together stops the motor.

Safety switch function is as follows: With the CORRECT solenoid, applying 12v to one of the small terminals starts the motor IF the other small terminal is grounded via the safety switch. Note the vacuum cut-out switch is mounted on plastic. Therefor it is not grounded. The safety switch does double duty by providing a ground return for the vacuum cut-out switch, but only at slow throttle settings. That prevents it from operating at fast settings, which could cause a mysterious mis-fire.

No, you cannot use a car voltage regulator. You need a 10 amp regulated unit. Furthermore, it has to be a type "A" field. No cars have only a 10 amp charging system. If you don't limit it to 10 amps, you will burn up the generator armature. New OEM regulators are about $100. Get used to it.

THANKS! I know more and more...

Is this right?
- The safety switch is grounded at slow throttle setting.
- It then grounds the solenoid to make it possible to start.
- If the throttle is at slow setting, and the motor starts running to fast (bigger vacuum), one of the cylinders are grounded and stops firing.
- At high throttle speed nothing happens at bigger vacuum, because the white cable is not connected. (Nor at the solenoid or at the safety switch.)

I will try to get used to the $100. Do you have an idea where to find the part no?

Thanks! / H

 

[F_R]

Re: Connections safety swiches and more, Evinrude Lark VII, 40hp, 1965

You got it understood.

Voltage regulator is part number 381538. From your friendly local Evinrude dealer, or an on-line dealer selling OEM parts

EDIT: Warning: If you (or somebody else) have installed a car (Ford) solenoid, which looks identical, and connect the white wire to the safety switch, it will instantly destroy the safety switch the first time you try to start it. Ford and OMC solenoids look alike, but are different inside.