1985 60 HP Evinrude Powerhead Re-build - Thanks guys!

[TonyinPA]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the help over the past couple weeks.

Appreciate all that responded to my multiple threads with different questions.

There were countless other threads from the historical search that helped me a great deal as well.

What a great forum.

Ran it on muff's over lunch and she is running well.

Hoping to get in on the water over the weekend.

Compression went from 115 Top Cylinder, 35 Bottom Cylinder (blow head gasket and stuck ring) to 145 Top Cylinder and 140 bottom cylinder....and it's holding the pressure great.

I'm going to post one more thread on the tune-up chart. Not exactly sure how to adjust on that. I have the manual, but still a little confused on this.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: 1985 60 HP Evinrude Powerhead Re-build - Thanks guys!

Thats great compression.
Ive an 82, looks the same as yours in the photo. Mine isnt a crossflow so i suppose yours isnt too, my compression is only around 100.
Keep an eye on the cooling on it, i dont like the design which it has with the themostat at the bottom of cover jacket

 

[TonyinPA]

Re: 1985 60 HP Evinrude Powerhead Re-build - Thanks guys!

I did do a new thermostat and thermostat gasket/oring as part of the re-build. How do you check temps?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: 1985 60 HP Evinrude Powerhead Re-build - Thanks guys!

I just use my hand to test temp, my 60hp has an overheating problem, even though i did a whole new waterpump kit, cleaned out the water cover and did a new thermostat. It only overheats at idle, pumps a lot of water, the thermostat just seems to me to open too late.
I took a turn and a half clip off the poppet valve spring so that the rear engine cover gets water though it earlier.
My oveheat alam would seem to go off at idle after about 30seconds or so so id end up having to give it some throttle to open the poppet valve and then it would cool down again.
Im not sure how the system is designed to wok but to me it seems like the themostat opens to late. The manufactuer thermostat i got for it seems to open very late too, like near 70deg celcius which i think makes the top of the head to be far too hot by the time the themostats open.
Since ive done the changes i havent had the alarm go off but im concerned it may of broke itself as the head gets very hot.
Maybe mine has some fundamental fault in it i cant find but considering it pumps a lot of water and still overheats when poppets closed i think you should keep an eye on that too.
Try putting the palm on the top of the head when its idling.
You should be able to for at least ten-twenty seconds- mine theres no way i can and the alarm soon would go off.

 

[Fasola]

Hi Guys,

I'm Polish newbie about Evinrude's motors rebuilt - for now I was only using them but last year I purchased E60ELCOD dedicated for scrapage to rebuild it completly.

The bottom cylinder on my outboard blown due to overheating (rings were damaged). The engine was used in Germany on the North Sea salt water without proper maintenance and everything what was under water was coroded.

Now I have cylinder block bored and honed at 0.003" initially assembled being ready for final assembly of my powerhead just for the moment. Also I have 2 new pistons sets purchased oversized purchased from the local BRP dealer and plenty of used and new spares from Ebay US. What are still questions for me even I already did OMC service manual RTFM are:

- for my cylinder head assembly - should I use OMC gasket sealer compund stuff even if my BRP original powerhead gasket has markings on the internal side - the one towards cylinder block? - manual says do not use but what are your experts' recommendations?

- my local Evinrude dealler sold me SIERRA thermostat no. 18-3672 as the replacement of the original OMC one which on my first look have different build than the original one (corroded) but fitting into the original's position. Sierra's one is MERCURY dedicated but I tried both in the hot water and they opens at the same temp.
The question would be about if they provide the same water flow and original relef valve has a little hile while I've heard that for new (possibly replacements) valves without holes shouls be used - so what is the story that I should go?

I already spent a lot on this outboard rebuild going for new parts instead of used rubbish parts available on the local market, so I would like to be sure that I'm following right path.

If You would be so kind - especially You TonyinPA rebuilding the same motor, I would owe You a bottle of nice Polish Vodka

Bes tRegards

Maciek

 

[Bosunsmate]

hey Maciek
you will need to do a new post for this, on the evinrude/johnson page theres a compose new thread button near the top

 

[Bosunsmate]

By the way you must do this, change the outlet to the top of the block, thats what the problem was on mine
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...ng-a-tell-tale

 

[TonyinPA]

Hello there Maciek:

We bought the OEM thermostat, unfortunately I'm not very familiar with them so not sure I can help on that.

I actually called OMC about the head gasket. Their tech said to follow the manual, however like you said it was stamped right on the head gasket not to put sealant on it. I could tell the tech on the phone wasn't very familiar with it. I actually posted that question during my re-build and someone sent a link about gaskets. They recommendation they had was NOT to use sealant.

We didn't use sealant and had quite a few hrs on it over the summer and fall (brother in law just had it out today, prob for the last time before winter sets in). We haven't had any issues...

I would recommend NOT to use sealant.

Also, any of your other gaskets that come with a sticky film on them, do not use sealant.

Any dry gaskets that do not have a film, you should use a sealant. I used aviation gasket sealer.

Good luck on your re-build. It sounds like your build was a lot more challenging than ours was.

Let me know how it ends up.

One other tip, when I was hooking the carbs back up, I put the linkage clip in a little bit higher than how it was supposed to clip together. Pretty easy mistake to make, not remembering exactly how they came apart. The result was one of the carbs was held part open at idle. On first start it wanted to run away at idle. I was freaking out a little bit, till I looked through the pictures I took before taking it apart and found my mistake.

Just something watch out for...

 

[raczekp1]

sierra termostat no.18-3672 should be fine.
in my opinion you should use some sealer to assemble powerhead block

 

[Fasola]

Thanks a LOT guys for your valuable tips - I appreciate much all of them. Bosunmate - sure for the next time I will create the new thread according to my future questions.

Best Regards

Maciek