1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

[ryan 98]

Hi. I've posted on this forum a few times before about this engine and a few others and always got a great response, so i figured this is worth a shoot. I've been using this motor about two summers now and what little rubber was left of the cowl mounts has simply turned to dust at this point. this has caused the motor to get a million little rattles well running and has destroyed my paint job on the fuel mix plate at the front, it also caused the 2 pegs in the cowl to get busted off. I'm not really sure how to fix the pegs as one of them is lost completely and you cant weld this cast metal that the cowl is made of, any suggestions? what i'm really after however is the rubber itself. i need the 3 little rubber stops that go in the cowl and the gasket-type trim around the fuel mix plate and any other trim that may have been there but has fallen off years ago. is there any place that sells re-pro rubber for this outboard?

The other issue i have is when i checked the oil in the lower end this year there was very little left and it was mostly filled with water. the lower seals are obviously shot but i can not find any replacements on this site and i seem to remember something about having to remove the power head to remove the lower end on these motors. So is it possible to get these parts and where? does the power head have to come off, and if so where do i get new seals for that, as there most likely shot to? and finally is it even worth it or should i just top up the oil and drain the water every month?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

Repro bumpers at Antique and Classic Outboard Motor Paint & Decals

No you do not have to remove the powerhead on a 10hp. Your best friend is a parts list for your motor. Armed with part numbers, visit your local Evinrude dealer. He can order the parts (if available) if you have the numbers, otherwise he probably won't give you the time of day because he probably doesn't have the book either.

 

[ddwilson]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

might check with Doug at vintage ourboards Outboard motor parts, Mercury, Johnson, Evinrude, new, used, NOS, classic, and vintage
not sure if they will have them but good chance also Laings outboards

 

[F_R]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

BTW, the hood can be welded. It is die-cast aluminum. The area you need done may be a bit tricky though.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

You have a PM (Private Message)

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

I have drilled and tapped some of the mount areas after the nubs are gone. Once tapped, I install a bolt, usually 5/16" if there's enough meat in the casting, but 1/4" if not. If you cut the head off the bolt, it will approximate the nubs that held the bumpers previously. I've also used small chunks of old fuel hose, cut to length, as bumpers. In one case, I used rubber cement to glue some 1/4" hose inside a larger diameter hose to build up diameter for some of the "ball-shaped" bumpers. I then shaped them on the belt sander. This was all with old scrap hose and didn't take that long to do, either... it was done on motors where I wasn't really concerned with originality - I just wanted the rattling to stop!

 

[Crosbyman]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

if one old rubber bumper is still good maybe you can make a small plaster mold (oil the rubber bumper to act as a release agent)


.... then just paint in a dab of oil as a release agent inside the mold

Fill the mold with GOOP rubber or black silicone... center in a small bolt and let it harden up for a few days

drill and tap the side mount then screw in the new bumper !

winter time experiment

 

[ryan 98]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

This is great. So the new plan is I will order up new rubber mounts from (Antique and Classic Outboard Motor Paint & Decals) as they have the correct ones and misasagua is only about an hour away from me. Then all have to just make new rubber for the front. All attempt to use the drilling and tap method to get a bolt in to replace the nibs that broke off.

Thanks to F R I now have the parts list so providing a local auto parts store can still order the seals, I think all rebuild the Lower end with all new seals and throw in a new water pump as it's got to be ten years old. Are there any little tricks to doing the lower end or is it fairly straight forward? I don't want to mess up the shift linkage or something whel I do this.

Thanks for all the great replys

 

[ryan 98]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

That would work but all the old rubber has simply turned to dust. So I have nothing to mold.

 

[ryan 98]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

One more more thing. The stone like filter that goes in the bottom of the glass carb cup is gone. Last summer the motor was running horable out in the lake, when I removed the stone it fixed the problem. The only problem is I was in a bad mood about the motor by that point so long story short my filter stone is at the bottom of the lake right now. Where can I get one or should I Justnput a filter on the line?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

Ryan are you near Hamilton. If so I can help. PM me.

 

[cgorney]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

I rebuilt the lower on my '69 evinrude. It was pretty simple assuming the construction was relatively standard for the period. I'd recommend getting a seal puller if I were you... and get some gasket maker to supplement the o-rings. Better safe than sorry. Careful with those cotter pins... they are pretty flimsy and it's a pain pushing them out when they break off in the hole.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

Thought I had a '54 QD cowl but it was a '54 RD cowl.

You can still buy an original stone filter. Not cheap. Or, put a plastic one inline and leave stone out.

Peter has the gaskets for around the carb face plate as well as the bumpers.

If he doesn't have seal kit and impeller, I usually have a couple dozen in stock.

 

[ryan 98]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

I'm in the process of dismantling the lower end. the gaskets are all relay quite nice however the last person who had it open went nuts with the gasket sealer. I'm going to do a little more work cleaning things up then all upload some photos tonight. I'm going to have a few more questions later but as of right now my only question is i have the exploded diagram of a Evenrude lower of the same vintage, and everything is identical except for part numbers. can these relay still be the same parts? since none of the seals and some of these parts don't have a number on them is it still a safe bet there the same part when i order them withe the Evenrude part numbers?

 

[ryan 98]

Re: 1954 Johnson 10 HP Parts.

on further inspection they are all the same part numbers except the prop shaft sea; wich was probably a replacement

 

[OMCfan]

Ryan 98 try NY Marine. Peter carries all the rubber bumpers for your motor.

 

[jbcurt00]

Closed

Its been over 2yrs since ryan posted to this topic and nearly 2yrs since he logged on to iboats.