Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

[RyanInFlorida]

I have a 1993 Evinrude 140HP- TLETF that is not currently charging and the tach is not working. The rectifier shows the following model #584205. It has a red wire, purple wire, grey wire, yellow wire and yellow wire with grey stripe.

This is the testing procedures I'm using below not sure if this is a bad rectifier? I don't want to be one of those people that just keeps throwing parts only to find out I have the same problem. :mad-new:

I have a multi-meter set on the diode option that looks like this ->|-

Here are my results below:
With the black on ground screw and red touching the following leads
Red- 1
Purple - 1900 for a about a second and then back to 1. Not sure if it should stay constant?
Grey - 1
Yellow -1
Yellow/grey stripe- 1

switched the leads from red on the ground screw and black touching the following leads
Red- 1
Purple - 1
Grey - 1
Yellow -1
Yellow/grey stripe- 1

red on the red wire and black touching the following leads
Purple - 1
Grey - 1
Yellow -1
Yellow/grey stripe- 1

black on the red wire and red touching the following leads
Purple - 1
Grey - 1
Yellow -1
Yellow/grey stripe- 512

Would this tell me it is bad? Or am I still missing something or am I testing the rectifier the wrong way? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time.

 

[boobie]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

That's a regulator/rectifier on your motor. I've never checked them when I thought they were bad. Just replaced. Go to cdielectronics.com for more info. You may also want to check your stator on the battery charging side.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

I have a 1993 Evinrude 140HP- TLETF that is not currently charging and the tach is not working. The rectifier shows the following model #584205. It has a red wire, purple wire, grey wire, yellow wire and yellow wire with grey stripe.

There's an easier way to check that component.................

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

You state no charge and no tach, that model with purple wire is what turn rect/reg on/off. Check that you have 12 volts on purple wire when key is on, if not =no tach and charge.....

 

[RyanInFlorida]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

You state no charge and no tach, that model with purple wire is what turn rect/reg on/off. Check that you have 12 volts on purple wire when key is on, if not =no tach and charge.....

Thanks for the quick responses.....

Should I start with just turning the key to the on position without the regulator/rectifier hooked up to see if I get the 12volts? I currently have the regulator pulled off the motor.

Or should I try joe's steps above?

I won't have a chance to do anything until Thursday.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

You can just turn key on and test for 12volts, if you replace it the new one will not have a purple wire...

 

[RyanInFlorida]

Re: Bad rectifier? Not charging & no tach? Proper way to test rectifier?

You can just turn key on and test for 12volts, if you replace it the new one will not have a purple wire...

Ok....I just hooked it back up. I'm getting 12V on Red, Purple, and both yellows. The orange wires have negative 12 volts and the grey wire has negative 6.82V. This is all with the engine turned off and the key in the on position. Does this tell me anything?