Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

[Texasfatfish]

I have a mechanic that feels he can cutout the sleeves in a 150 HP Intruder with a saws all. He also believes he can drive the new sleeves back into the block afdter the originals been removed. Whats the proper proceedure to, first- get the bad sleeve out and second - replace it with a new sleeve
Fat Fish

 

[boobie]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

Get a different mechanic !!!

 

[175se]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

STRONGLY agree with#2, the quickest way to turn that engine to junk. IN the oven block temp must reach 475- pull out old sleeve- make sure block is back at 475-take new sleeve out of fridge insert in block. Make sure you line it first,watch it as it cools may have to be tapped down as it cools,use a flat plate not just a hammer.

 

[boobie]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

Forgot to ask, why do you want it sleeved ??

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

And how is he going to mill it down as a new sleeve is longer and must be milled even with block deck and the bored to size??? Has he pressure tested block for glue line leakage?

 

[bob johnson]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

sounds like he is a jerk of all trades.....stay away.... don't let people mcgyver your outboard motors

bob

 

[jimmbo]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

I have a mechanic that feels he can cutout the sleeves in a 150 HP Intruder with a saws all. He also believes he can drive the new sleeves back into the block afdter the originals been removed. Whats the proper proceedure to, first- get the bad sleeve out and second - replace it with a new sleeve
Fat Fish

April Fools was 8 days ago

 

[175se]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

what does scrap alum. go for these days?

 

[Texasfatfish]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

STRONGLY agree with#2, the quickest way to turn that engine to junk. IN the oven block temp must reach 475- pull out old sleeve- make sure block is back at 475-take new sleeve out of fridge insert in block. Make sure you line it first,watch it as it cools may have to be tapped down as it cools,use a flat plate not just a hammer.

The mechanic had stated he had removed and replaced sleeves before by his method. Not knowing any better I took him at his word. I know some diesels allow inframe rebuilds that allow sleeevs to be replaced in this way. He removed two bad sleeves and tried to go back in. When he found out he couldn't drive the first one home he decide the block was warped. The engine had been hot, the top and middle pistons on the right side had galed the sleeves pretty badly. He felt the oil pump had died and caused the issue. We had check compresion and all cyclinder in the left bank came back at 120 PSI. There was none on the top two on the right and the lower right was at 100 PSI but didn't show sighns of galing. When he decided the block was warped I started checking around for a new/used block and started coming up with responces that the block had to be heated to both get sleeves in and out. I took the block to a machinest that handless outboard work and he confirmed the heated block was they way it was to be done. I had him do the work and the new sleeves dropped right in. So much for the hammer method.
I am concerened however about comments I see and hear about a "Glue Line" in the block and its got to be pressure checked. I understand that was an issue in the early models of the 150 intruder but had been resolved by the model year 1995 manufacture in 1994, is this correct or should I be concerned about this? The engines not completed so its not been cranked as of yet. While I was told the cause of the overheating was due to being starved of oil I want to be sure before going any further. I believe this engine is refered to a "looper" - something to do with the method fuel and oil mixure is provided to the cylinders - Comments are appreciated and welcomed.
Fat Fish

 

[Texasfatfish]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

Forgot to ask, why do you want it sleeved ??

The top right and middle cylinders lost compresion - the sleevs were galled badly in what seames to be a problem with no oil in the fuel. The lower cycling was down to 100 PSI while all three cyclinders in the left back were at 120 PSI each. The attempt was to replace two bad ones and come back to original speck being the others were in fair shape. Where I am now is that a machinest has replaced the sleeves (by heating the block) and overboard all cylinders 20 thou.
My concern is what truely caused the cyclinders/pistons/rings to do what they did. No oil is speculated as these are know to have oil pump issues but I'm also seeing coments about water coming in throught the "glue line". I've read that the glue line issue was fixed in motors built by 1994 (year model 1995) which would be my motor but I'm not sure. How can I be sure that this wasn't the cause of the problem and that it was in fact the oil pump / fuel mixture is what caused this on this "looper" motor.
Feed back is apprecated.
Fat Fish

 

[bob johnson]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

you didn't get a low oil or no oil warning??

if no oil I mixed, then the motor should send a warning horn and light. same goes for a low oil reservoir/.

normal compression for most of those v 6's as only about 100 psi anyway. Although the intuders and faststrikes were SLIGHTLY different

I would have thought if the block was warped replacing the sleeves would’nt “straighten” it out any more than boring .040” over size would…..

And you could have saved the cost of buying, removing and installing those sleeves.




bob

 

[Texasfatfish]

Re: Replaces Sleeves in 150 HP 1995 Evinrude Intruder

I bought the boat with the motor on it. The previous owner said an alarm did sound when this occured, he wasn't sure if it was oil or water related though he did say the pisser was sending out a stream. He was up front about the motor being bad bad didn't know to what extent. I wasn't buying the motor - just the boat and if I could salvage the motor that would have been great.
I knew nothing about these motors when all this started, I'm learning by fire. Bad info hasn't helped. If I had known more about this I would have taken the block to the machine shop right off. They may well have been able to over bore which would have saved me some bucks. At this point the motors assembled but not corrrectly, I'm going to have to have some one go back through it. Its binding when turned by hand and I know one of the rods is in backward. I need a mechanic - enough said
Thanks