Kill switch woes

jetajockey

Recruit
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
5
Hey guys. I have a new (to me) 83 25hp seahorse on a little fiberglass boat. Seemed to run good apart from a slight hiccup one time while we were out. It sat for a few weeks and I decided it would be a good time to install a kill switch (the thing with the lanyard). It already has a stop button so wiring the kill switch was a no brainer, and I figured since I like to operate the tiller while standing that it was better safe than sorry.

I ordered the kill switch from Ebay and installed it without any issue. Fast forward a few weeks and I'm ready to go out with it. I get out on the water and no dice, the motor wouldn't start. I fiddled with a few things as well as the kill switch and nothing worked. Got sick of it and put it back on the trailer and tried it one last time and it started up, albeit briefly.

Next day I have it in the yard and it starts up with the choke all the way in or the idle slightly raised, but any time it goes back to idle it sputters for a few seconds and dies. So after a few hours of tinkering with that I decide it might need a carb rebuild. (I got the kit from iboats, it was really nice, had a good diagram of the carb and some basic instructions. It included the float and was by far the cheapest kit around, not to mention I got it shipped 2nd day ground for just a few bucks!

I rebuilt the carb, was pretty easy (I was super paranoid about messing it up), got it all back together and nothing changed. So then I start checking the plugs, they are fouled at this point, not a big surprise, put new plugs in it. Still no go.

The plugs were getting a good solid blue spark.

Finally after looking over everything, re-tightening ground bolts, etc, I decide to disconnect the kill switch completely.

Tada! It starts right up, I have to adjust the mixture since I rebuilt the carb, but otherwise runs great.

So I stuck the old stop button back in it and will be ordering a new kill switch, perhaps from iboat this time.

I don't know what/why the faulty kill switch would cause it to run really poorly, but I'm convinced it did. Just thought I'd share this gremlin.
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Re: Kill switch woes

I believe kill switches come in 2 varieties, NORMALLY OPEN and NORMALLY CLOSED.

Make sure you get a NORMALLY OPEN one that closes when you kill it.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
Re: Kill switch woes

good you have tracked it down to a not so expensive part. I think that sometimes a bit of leakage through a faulty ignition kill switch will cause the powerpack to behave a bit wacko. Thats if yours has a powerpack, i assume being 83 it will
 

jetajockey

Recruit
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
5
Re: Kill switch woes

I believe kill switches come in 2 varieties, NORMALLY OPEN and NORMALLY CLOSED.

Make sure you get a NORMALLY OPEN one that closes when you kill it.

Well the thing that threw me for a loop was that it operated fine initially, I even tested it a few times by pulling the lanyard as well as shut it down by pressing the button itself with the lanyard clip left in.

The only thing I can think of causing the issues was possible leaking voltage as Bosunsmate mentioned.
 
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