Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

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Mar 4, 2014
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I have a '98 Johnsom 115 Model 115tlsecm....has anyone replaced this part on the forum here? it appears that I can remove from transom and replace from under side of motor? Any advice is appreciated....Thanks in advance....Mike
 

boobie

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

I would recommend getting an OMC factory service manual to do this job. It will also help you out with other problems that will occur on the mtr.
 

V153

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Have you found a replacement? If so how much? You might be in for a surprise. Changing the arm is no picnic, lot more involved than just 'removing & replacing' that particular part.
 
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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

I have the exact same model and problem. My steering arm is "scarry" rusted. I am afraid it will break at WOT and the engine torque will slam the engine hard in one direction, violently turning the boat and injuring passengers. I have read several descriptions for replacing this part ranging from fairly simple to extremely difficult. The 'simple' process I read is to secure the engine in a hoist (still attached to the boat)remove the bolts at the top (top bolts are at the aft end of the steering arm itself) and bottom of the stern bracket , pull the engine away from the bracket, then remove and replace the steering arm assembly.
If this procedure is correct I would try to do it myself. Rusted bolts would be a challenge to remove though.
The extremely difficult procedure I have read is that the power head must be pulled (per a marine mechanic) then the lower unit removed. I have searched the internet and still can't confirm the correct procedure and apparently the service manuals don't describe an R&R of the steering arm. If anyone has done this as described above in the 'simple" procedure, please let us know. Thanks!
 

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175se

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

post 2&3 are right you need the manual, the motor appears to be a crossflow (if my program is right) you have to do it one way, a looper another way. boobie is right get the manual, not a picnic.
 

V153

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Most of the time, they look far scarier than they are from a functioning point of view and simply need to be de-scaled. Properly prepped,painted
I agree. Usually it's just a thin layer of scale, that can be chipped off. Then cleaned up & refinished. I'm told Rusto's "Rust Reformer" is the stuff. Be trying some on my project soon.

Ironically my oldest saltiest motor has the best looking steering arm. Go figure?
 

daselbee

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

And I still have two 20" steering arms....PM me if interested.
 
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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

image.jpgimage.jpg Iimage.jpg These are pics of the steering arm.....Upon further inspection....much worse than I thought....I do not believe the rust restorer would work very thin and brittle.....What do you gents think? Disregard bottom pic ...do not know what that is?....lol
 

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Fed

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

You would have to check this but it looks like they use the same arm up to 175HP so it's probably well over engineered for your 115.

Also take a look at the grounding wires, my arm is rusted and on close inspection I found the sneaky wire that goes to the top of the arm was broken and I believe that's why it's rusting so badly.

After I clean mine up I'm going to drill & tap a small hole in the side of my arm and bond it 'somewhere', by memory the original strap bonded to the swivel bracket which I have now temporarily re-bonded to a convenient negative block connection but my arm remains unbonded.
 

Shorebum

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Go to my profile and find my recent post for the same problem on a 130 ocean runner. I followed dazk14 advice and got a
$20 needle scaler from harbor freight. Scale it and seewhat the old salts think about what is left. As some other advice was given removing the motor the way you are thinking brings a host of other problems. I will be nursing mine. Same arm is on my 130, $456 if you get a new one. There are descaled pictures in the post.
 

Shorebum

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Dazk14 beat me to it
 

daselbee

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

The problem you will likely have is removing the steering tube nut at the bottom. If you are trashing the whole thing, just cut it off. Others that may just want to R&R the tube to replace bushings and lube, etc. will need to save the nut and the bottom of the tube, and that can be a real problem.
 

Faztbullet

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

It being a saltly dog a LOT of them bolts are going to be stuck. If it was mine I would find a fresh water midsection and swap over powerhead and lower unit. It will be a lot less headaches.....
 

dazk14

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Go to my profile and find my recent post for the same problem on a 130 ocean runner. I followed dazk14 advice and got a
$20 needle scaler from harbor freight. Scale it and see what the old salts think about what is left. As some other advice was given removing the motor the way you are thinking brings a host of other problems. I will be nursing mine. Same arm is on my 130, $456 if you get a new one. There are descaled pictures in the post.

Good advice.

Looks fine to within about 3" of the steering link. Can't tell from pics. Get the scale off. A 115 doesn't put the same stress on it as a big V4 or V6 looper.
 
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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Lots of good info. Thanks everybody. I will try cleaning mine up and treating with rust treatment.
Here are a couple of pics. I just bought the boat from a dealer. Obviously the engine has been painted, but I can't tell if the steering arm was treated before or just painted over. I have no Hx from the PO.
 

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dazk14

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Re: Replacing Steering Arm on 1998 Johnson 115

Maybe , a quick scrape/wire brush.

They usually just get painted over hitting it a bit heavier.

The nice paint is the catalyzed Urethane single stage for white and base coat/clear coats for many metallic's.

It's durability, flow out and incredible adhesion. to darn near anything, make it a fan favorite.

A bit pricy and the catalysts can have very short shelf life.

Nothing wrong with rattle cans, especially the whites
 
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