94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

lwood24

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Dec 24, 2010
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13
I have a 1994 Johnson 150 faststrike and the past two times I have taken it out the tach jumps up between 2000 and 4500 rpm at idel and after about 10 minutes of idling the buzzer goes off if I cut the engine off and pack on it doesn't sound any more but the tach jumps up but never zeros out and after a few minutes of running settles back down and acts normal the voltage never drops on the battery could this be the rectifier going out or the tach going bad any help would be appreciated
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
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11,551
Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

You have two things to look at: 1. An erratic tach is usually a sign that the rectifier/regulator is starting to go bad. 2. It's unusual to get a hot horn-that's a sign of an overheat. If the water pump is weak, possible the block is not filling properly with cooling water, esp at idle. Since the combination rectifier/regulator sits inside the top of the block (it's water cooled)-possible it's not getting enough cooling water and that could be affecting it's output.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 

lwood24

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Dec 24, 2010
Messages
13
Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

The motor has good water preasure would the rectifier just go out or could it gradually just start going out the tach seems to work fine once the engine is good and warmed up
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

When the rectifier goes (shorted)... it's finished. No such thing ads an intermittent rectifier. However, the charging system which is incorporated within the one piece unit is another matter.

Do the test to determine if the tachometer is fauty. It's beyond my knowledge how engine temperature could possibly have an effect on the tachometer... perhaps I'll learn somehting here.
 

lwood24

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Dec 24, 2010
Messages
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Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

Iv just taken the plastic covering off to look at the rectifier and it looks like in front of the rectifier and the top plastic cover on top of the rectifier have gotten hot it's melted looking and iv noticed that there is a purple wire in my wiring harness that is not pluged up but there is no other wires coming from the rectifier to plug it too
 

lwood24

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Dec 24, 2010
Messages
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Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

And when at ideal the voltage gauge on dash reads 12 and when running full throttle it reads 14
 

boobie

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Nov 5, 2009
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20,826
Re: 94 Johnson 150 faststrike tach jumping

Check all your wiring connections on both the motor and the tach for bring loose, dirty or corroded.
 
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