1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

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Strahm

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First things first. I just bought this motor sight unseen, unknown condition, unknown history. No electric cables or ignition came with it.
So I want to see if I can get the motor running before buying anything for it.

From what I understand is the motor is in forward gear unless you supply power to the solenoids in the lower unit. apply power to the green wire and it should be in neutral, apply power to the green and purple wire and the engine will be in reverse.

my questions are, Does the motor start in neutral like a usual motor?
What should I do if I apply power to the green wire, and hear the solenoid click, but I still can't spin the prop by hand? the same is true for the other wire, and both wires.

Right now since the motor is in forward gear, it will not start, the starter tries to turn it over but can only spin it very slow.


Also would the carbs be interchangeable with my 1973 75hp, evinrude? any other parts interchangeable?
 

F_R

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

It has to be running, or at least rotating before it will shift out of forward. Reason: The solenoids don't shift it, they only operate an oil flow control valve. The oil doesn't flow unless the oil pump is rotating, and the pump doesn't rotate unless the running motor turns it.

EDIT: As I remember it, without looking it up, it will start with the remote control in neutral or in gear, as long as the throttle is at a slow setting.
 
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Strahm

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

So why would it be struggling to turn over? I was assuming it should be in neutral to start so it was hard to turn over in gear.
The starter only rotates the flywheel like a 1/4 turn.
 

racerone

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

When I test one of these lower units on the bench it is in forward.------With 12 volts to green it shifts to nuetral in about one turn.-----So can you turn the flywheel by hand a full turn.---Do you have a fully charged battery?--------Lower unit oil checked ?----------Any possibility of ice in the lower unit ?-------The lower unit will always be in forward when it is niot running ?--------The early triple had weak piston skirts.--Seen a lot of those motors with a hole in the crankcase.
 
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Strahm

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

I am using a jump start box directly to the starter, so power is not an issue.
using a fully charged battery for the green wire. I have not turned it a full turn yet, will try that next.
Seems like this would be a hard starting motor if it always has to start in gear.

I have loosened the bottom screw on the lower unit and oil begins to come out immediately, I know it would be better to drain it, and check it, but I would prefer not to.
 

racerone

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

It will be in forward gear for less than one turn of the flywheel !!----Then it is in nuetral to start.--------This motor is NOT hard to start because of the shift function.
 

F_R

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

Agreed, even if it were to stay in gear while cranking, that would NOT make it crank hard. Something is wrong somewhere. Bad starter, hard to rotate components, who knows? Hard to tell from a distance. But it isn't the gearshift. If you want to narrow it down, remove the lower unit. You are going to want to do that anyway for water pump service, right?
 

Strahm

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

ok that was just my thoughts.

So how can I narrow down why it is hard cranking? should I spray the cylinders with some fogging or lubrication oil?

Also I have a 1973 75hp evinrude, which is running right either, if it comes down to it, what parts are interchangeable between the two?
 

racerone

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

????------A 1973 75 hp is not listed----Model # required to assist you.----Not many( if any ) parts from a 73 model will fit the 68 model.
 

Strahm

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

????------A 1973 75 hp is not listed----Model # required to assist you.----Not many( if any ) parts from a 73 model will fit the 68 model.

I may be wrong on the year, as I don't have a title. model number is 75643d
 

racerone

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

That would be a 76 model.
 

bonzoscott

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

Take the spark plugs out and try to rotate the flywheel (clockwise) several turns. Make sure nothing is locking it up. Run starter/motor with plugs out and see if it spins faster. If not, move on to starter diagnoses. Maybe corroded connects between cable - solenoid, solenoid started etc.
 

Strahm

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

well with the spark plugs out, the starter still cannot spin the engine quickly. It is more quick than before but no where near starting speed.

I am using a heavy duty battery charger on jump setting to apply power directly to the starter, so I don't think it is a power problem. The same charger we use to jump bobcats and heavy machinery.

Is there anything I can do aside from buying a new starter? I don't really want to buy a starter if I have no clue if the engine is usable.
 

boobie

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

Take the starter to a rebuild shop and see what they have to say. They have the proper equipment to check it out.
 

Tim Frank

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Re: 1968 55hp johnson. trl 10r. electric shift questions

.....I don't really want to buy a starter if I have no clue if the engine is usable.
First things first. I just bought this motor sight unseen, unknown condition, unknown history. No electric cables or ignition came with it.

What you have effectively done is jump past all the sequential steps to check a motor before purchase.
Now you are going to have to work through them anyway.
The lack of control set will be a challenge in itself.

You need a benchmark as a starting point....I'd agree with Boobie....verify the starter first.
Then you can deal with the power head....compression check etc.
 

jbcurt00

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Timbo you may have accidentally flagged a post instead of posting a reply

Sent you a PrivateMessage

Please try to avoid posting in inactive topics, 90+days w no new posts.

Thanks

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