1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

[shrimpinmachine]

I am trying to remove the trim/tilt assembly for a 1991 Johnson 40 VJ40TLEIA. After plenty of effort, and a heavy hammer, I got the top pin out but I have 2 things left.

1. I need to disconnect the wires from the trim so that I can take the whole unit off. The wires run through a sleeve that enters into the cowling through the bottom. I think I have "unclipped" the wiring harness from under the cowling however I could figure out how to remove the wires from the "clip" so that I could make the bundle of wire fit through the hole in the cowling. Any advise would be great; the service manual isn't detailed enough to help me.

2. The bottom pin (pin is threaded on both ends) is stuck! I just started soaking it in a penetrating oil and plan to beat it out the best I can. I would greatly appreciate other ideas if someone has had luck with this.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Will Bark]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Before you start beating on things, let the gurus chime in with their thoughts and help; I'm not familiar with your engine so I can't be of any help but others certainly can. Good luck

 

[boobie]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

If you're going to beat it out use a brass drift and a BFH. Heat also helps. With a brass drift, you won't damage the pin.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

make sure to drop engine onto blocks or stops so that the weight of engine does not bind the pin.
make sure not to mushroom the end of pin. It won't pass through. If it does mushroom, use an angle grinder to taper it back down. If you do ruin the pin and evinrude wants solid gold pricing then just use SS rod from machine shop as replacement.

 

[shrimpinmachine]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

I appreciate the advice everyone. I'll definitely be putting it to use.

Does anyone have any idea what I'm talking about with the wiring? I need to disconnect the wiring to the trim system but I'm not sure the best way to do that (please see above for more details). Thanks again everyone!

 

[bonz_d]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Is this a plastic connector with wires passing thru one side and pins on the other or is this a molded connector?

If this is a plactic connector that when you wiggle the wire the pin moves also then yes they will come apart. What you will need to remove the wire from the connector is a mini straight blade screwdriver and then insert it along the wire to the barb on the pin and then the wire and driver will pull out.

Almost forgot. When you pull the wires from the connector be sure to note what position each wire is in so you can replace them back into the same position!

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

i think 1991 has the round connector made from soft rubber. They are removable but I don't know how.

Most of the systems sent to me for rebuilding are cut a few inches below the connector (where they can later be spliced and sealed with a crimp tool and a $9 chinese heat gun). When I ship back the rebuilt system i included a pair of waterproof yellow butt splices. If I have reason to believe the rubber connector may be damaged then I send them 3ft of blu wire and 3ft of green along with Mercury style bullet connectors and some non-flammable poly woven cable sheath.

25 Permaseal Yellow Heat Shrink Butt Connector 12 10 GA | eBay

20 Yellow Insulated M F Crimp Bullet Connectors 5mm | eBay

 

[shrimpinmachine]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Thanks Again Everyone!

RRitt, you wouldn't happen to be netsvc on ebay would you?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Thanks Again Everyone!

RRitt, you wouldn't happen to be netsvc on ebay would you?

same.

 

[shrimpinmachine]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

same.

Awesome. Small World. As soon as I get this thing off I'm sending it to you for a rebuild!

Thanks again & Merry Christmas!

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Awesome. Small World. As soon as I get this thing off I'm sending it to you for a rebuild!

Thanks again & Merry Christmas!

oh, well, then my standard advice is to choose a place safely away from splashing water but open enough for you to work a crimp tool and get good access with a heat gun. Cut the wires there. the butt splice you'll get back uses a regular crimp tool like the kind you use to build leaders and rigs. The ouside jacket needs even heating to melt the sealant. You can use propane but it is difficult to evenly melt sealant without damaging wire. the $9 harbor freight heat gun is not very durable but it works well while it lasts.

 

[shrimpinmachine]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

oh, well, then my standard advice is to choose a place safely away from splashing water but open enough for you to work a crimp tool and get good access with a heat gun. Cut the wires there. the butt splice you'll get back uses a regular crimp tool like the kind you use to build leaders and rigs. The ouside jacket needs even heating to melt the sealant. You can use propane but it is difficult to evenly melt sealant without damaging wire. the $9 harbor freight heat gun is not very durable but it works well while it lasts.

That sounds good and I really appreciate the help. Also, before I posted this thread, I followed an "idea" of a friend and and took the 4 screws off the top part of the trim motor to see if the wiring would be accessible from there. As soon as the cap came off, i saw the brushes so I knew I was somewhere I shouldn't be. The brushes and springs are still in place (thank the Lord nothings came flying out) but I was unable to keep the the brushes slid back into there place and put the cap back on at the same time. I put the cap on as far as it will go to keep things from coming out and put the screws back in. Is that going to be a major problem for you to put back right?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

if you crack the circuit board or break a brush then the motor's toast. it will be much more difficult to ship because now you have a pint of oil seeping out of cylinder housing. if you can address those problems then I'll be able to fix. if you leak too much oil during shipping it could end up in a dumpster instead of delivered.

 

[shrimpinmachine]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Nothing seems to be broken and the brushes are still in there. Any suggestions on how to keep the brushes pressed up against springs enough to get it to completely close?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1991 Johnson 40 - Removing Trim assembly - Wire & Bottom Pin

Nothing seems to be broken and the brushes are still in there. Any suggestions on how to keep the brushes pressed up against springs enough to get it to completely close?

If any of the four motor bolts (1/4"-20 x 7/8" phillips) are seized then just drain the oil. individually wrap the parts in foam/bubble/newspaper to prevent any shipping damage. open the mrv and push/pull the piston as best you can to force out as much oil as possible.

twisting off one of the four large phillips head motor bolts is a worst case scenario. Two of them are jammed up against body. They can not be drilled out and rethreaded for anything close to reasonable price. If a bolt is seized I'll cut a slot and spread the threads open. It is a far better option than sheared bolts. So, if a motor bolt is stuck - don't force it. just take extra effort bagging and packing.


As regards the trim motor:
you have to take the motor base off the aluminum housing. then gently spread brushes apart and insert the armature without damaging brushes or circuit board. Next put the baseplate and armature in a bench vise - gently clamping on the lower tip of aramture so that it can not possibly lift out of brushes. carefully lower the magnet bell into place. DO NOT crack magnets. modestly tighten three small screws to hold bell housing snug. replace motor with oring into aluminum housing and gently tighten each of the four bolts.