1952 Johnson TN28

[Eager Beaver]

I have a 1952 Johnson TN28; I have had it running up until 3 years ago. Carb would overflow when the engine was shut off. I ordered the carb gasket kit and was going to start to determine the overflow problem and fix it. This TN28 has had the neutral lever removed and the spot where the lever was has been filled in with bondo and repainted. I always thought this motor was a TD20 until I checked the model # stamp on the power head. Since I have not got to the carb work, I have been periodically turning over the motor to keep it loose, I also put a little oil into the spark plug holes. When turning over the motor I noticed that the prop was not turning. The prop could not be turned by hand yet the motor would turn over when a wrench was put to the flywheel not. I pulled the lower unit and when I pulled it our, the entire drive shaft came out. I thought perhaps something about the clutch spring may be binding things up so the prop would not turn. I can't seem to get the bearing support plate to separate from the lower unit to reveal the clutch mechanism. Can anyone give me some ideas on what I should do?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

There is nothing holding the bearing plate to the gearcase except the gasket. Get a little bit meaner.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

Why in the heck would anyone want to remove the neutral clutch!? lol

I wonder what else was done here?

Here is a link that will help with that TN

New Page 1

 

[bonzoscott]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

Welcome to iboats! If the motor ran three years ago, then sat, the prop should still turn with the motor. It sounds like you always used it as direct drive since the clutch lever is missing /covered up. You said the entire shaft came out? Out of the drive or the power head? If it came out of the drive, you can get it back in the bevel gear with some patience. Look down through the bearing and see about where it's at, use a piece of stiff wire or something and get it approx. Work the shaft into it. Once you have the shaft in again, see if it will turn the prop. Getting all of the parts for the clutch mechanism is a different topic. That is if you plan on it. High Trim helped with mine.

 

[Eager Beaver]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

When I pulled the lower unit, the entire drive shaft came out of the power head, also falling out when I pulled the lower unit was a seal with a thin washer. I assume it fits over the top of the drive shaft but I do not know if the thin washer is next to the power head or rests on the top of the drive shaft. After I removed the lower unit I tried to rotate the prop by hand but it will not turn at all. I don't know what would be preventing the rotation of the prop unless the clutch mechanism is preventing it. It ran fine the last time I used it about 3-4 years ago except for the carb leak when the engine was shut down; so I am really confused as to what could be causing the prop not to turn. Any ideas anybody.
Thanks.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

Don't know why you can't turn the prop. But this shows the seal assembly at the top of the drive shaft.

 

[bonzoscott]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

How is the lube? If it had water in it for 3 years, that may be a problem. Otherwise, some foreign piece of debris may be lodged in the gears. Drain the gear case and with the shaft in, put some kerosene in it and jostle it around it bit trying to turn the shaft. Leave it set for a day and repeat.

 

[Eager Beaver]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

How is the lube? If it had water in it for 3 years, that may be a problem. Otherwise, some foreign piece of debris may be lodged in the gears. Drain the gear case and with the shaft in, put some kerosene in it and jostle it around it bit trying to turn the shaft. Leave it set for a day and repeat.

I drained the gearcase and put in kerosene, let it sit overnight and drained. Got a lot of dirty liquid and rust flakes and particles out. I repeated this process 5-6 times and finally got clear kerosene and very few rust particles. I still cannot separate the lower unit from the bearing support plate to get access to the clutch mechanism. The bearing plate is loose but it will not pull apart

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

By bearing plate, you are referring to the 1/4" thick plate shown in the picture? There should be nothing holding that, especially since you say it is loose. Lord only knows what somebody has done in there when they removed the clutch (???).

 

[Eager Beaver]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

By bearing plate, you are referring to the 1/4" thick plate shown in the picture? There should be nothing holding that, especially since you say it is loose. Lord only knows what somebody has done in there when they removed the clutch (???).

Yes, the bearing plate I refered to is the 1/4 " plate you refered to in the picture. It rotates side to side about 1/4 inch and up and down perhaps 1/32 of an inch. The drive shaft you see in the picture is the upper drive shaft that came out when I pulled the lower unit. It is seized up solid as is the prop shaft. The funny thing is that everything worked fine the last time I ran it about 3 years ago. Do you think the clutch spring may have broken and is jamming things up? When I look up into the empty space where the upper drive shaft is housed, it appears that there is a loose spring or something up there, when I put a long screwdriver up there I can feel it. I have no idea where it goes. Any other ideas? I thought about pulling the prop shaft but I am not sure if that will do any good. Help!!!

 

[jbknows]

Re: 1952 Johnson TN28

Wow, someone else is working on the same project as me. Bonzoscot hit it on the head with my TN-28 motor. I have no Control handle up top to put it in neutral nor a control cable. I assume when I get this war bird running, it will be direct drive.