1984 Evinrude 150 stator

[SEGAangler]

I have a 1984 150 Evinrude, model # E150ANCRS. I recently lost fire/spark...at first it seemed intermittently (just on 3 cylinders) then altogether. I've already replaced the flywheel woodruff key for good measure. I may really show my ignorance but I'm not sure about the stator. I first though the black in these pictures was just sloppy insulation but it appears the two "packs" on the rear have leaked this out. Is this correct? No doubt the stator needs replaced but by looking at it does it seem it would more than likely be my culprit? Thanks for any help and advice

 

[boobie]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Start with replacing the stator and go from there.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

I think you'll find the two coils in question are the coils which provide charging voltage for the battery. (Yellow and yellow wire with gray tracer.) They don't affect the other coils which provide ignition voltage. Nonetheless, it is very possible the stator is degrading and that there is a problem with the other ignition coils also. You can find some excellent ignition troubleshooting information at this website: cdielctronics.com. The site lists some cranking output voltages for the ignition side of the stator which, if measured with a special peak-reading voltmeter, should help you qualify the ignition side of the stator. The site also lists cranking output voltages for the timer base too. Might as well qualify it while you are at it.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Sorry to disagree but the two larger coils that are melted provide voltage to the power pack for ignition. The smaller coils around the stator are for charging the battery.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Thanks for the correction. All the more reason to test the output of the ignition side of the stator. (those two black coils.)

 

[James R]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Replace the Stator. Replace it with a CDI unit. Generally way better than OEM. This may not be the only problem but fix the obvious first.

 

[SEGAangler]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Sorry it's been so long before an update; I had to wait to order the stator ($$$). The stator has been replaced and I still have spark issues. I am getting fire (but it appears weak) on just one side and nothing on the other. If I switch the power packs it is identical....so it seems both power packs are ok. Can the timer base or rectifier cause these types of problems? I feel I am probably over my head on this one as I have neither the knowledge or tools/meters that I need. I would really like to figure this out vs taking it to a mechanic though.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Well for one thing it isn't the rectifier causing this. As a last resort disconnect the black/yellow wires from the packs and see what happens.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

The original stator was shot as per Bobbie's suggestion to replace it. That component replacement was a good investment.

Checking spark... All of the spark plugs must be removed in order to obtain the highest rpm available. The engine must crank over at least 300 rpms in order to have the stator energize the powerpack. The spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

There may be a slight intermittent short within the ignition switch whcih would allow low voltage to travel down the black/Yellow wire to the powerpack's kill circuit... this in time would destroy the pack(s).

To test the igniiton switch for this type problem, disconnect the Black/Yellow wire from its "M" terminal at the igniiton switch or at the powerpack(s) (whichever is easier), then retest for spark. If you have spark with that Black/Yellow wire disconnected but weak or no spark with it connected, replace the ignition switch.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Swapping the power packs is a good ignition system test. If your results changed (they do not appear to have changed) that tells you something. Have you qualified the cranking output of the timer base?

 

[SEGAangler]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

I apologize for not putting this info in the original post: I changed the ignition switch 1st and replaced the flywheel woodruff key for good measure. I have isolated the kill circuit and it made no difference. I've swapped power packs from side to side and the outcome is the same. Joe no I do not have strong spark as you described; I have weak spark on one bank and none on the other. No I haven't qualified the cranking output of the timer base and I don't believe I have the correct tools to do so (this requires the DVA meter correct?). Are there any "backyard mechanic" tests I can do to check the timer base (understanding it may not be a 100% definitive test)? Thanks for all your help so far guys and I apologize for my lack of knowledge and/or proper tools.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

To eliminate any possible conflict with the control box and/or instrument cable running between the engine and the control setup.

Disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine.

Remove all spark plugs.

Set up your spark tester.

Crank the engine by using a small jumper between the battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid and the small 3/8" terminal (white wire) that energizes the solenoid.

Did this make any difference?

-----------------------------
The sensor resistance of the timer base can easily be checked with an ohm meter. The "white wire of the timer base is the common lead (black lead of ohm meter), the colored wires are the sensor leads.

Touching each of those colored wires with the red lead of the ohm meter should give you a reading of 40 ohms +/- 10 ohms.

Now, checking for a grounded timer base... have the ohm meter set on High Ohms, one meter lead connected to a good clean powerhead ground... the other meter lead attached to both the colored and white wires one by one. Any movement/reading of the meter indicates a short which must be corrected.

Let us know what you find.

 

[SEGAangler]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Disconnecting the wire harness did not make any difference. My resistance testings on the timer base were all over the place; one side (the side of engine with weak spark) produced readings between 11 and 13 ohms. On the other side (the side with no fire) one lead read ~48 and the other 2 leads produced no readings whatsoever. I removed the timer base and have found the plastic ring on the bottom is cracked clean through and it also appears melted near where the linkage is. I am going to order a new timer base and see where that puts me. It may be a week or so for an update but once it arrives and is installed I will post with where I stand at that point.

**with the other problems I found I never made it as far as checking if the timer base was grounding out

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Sounds like you found a faulty timer base. Keep us in the loop.

Also, at the center bottom portion of the flywheel, there is a small magnetic ring which excites/causes those timing sensors of the timer base to send signals to the powerpack(s). Check it to make sure it looks normal. There have been occasions whereas that ring would get so hot that it would start to melt. Hopefully this is not a related problem for you (probably not) but as long as the flywheel is off, it's worth checking out.

Be sure to torque that flywheel nut down to 145 foot pounds to avoid a sheared flywheel key.

 

[striperboat]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

i had similar problems with my 1995 evinrude 130. I had no spark and on very few occasions only one or two had spark. I replaced the power pack and that fixed it. Upon replacing, I noticed that my plugs and ignition coil had a lot of corrosion maybe they just need to be cleaned for proper contact. But replacing power pack did fix it for me.

 

[SEGAangler]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

The latest update has me here: Stator and Timer Base have been replaced. I still have fire on one bank only. If I move power pack or coils to the other bank they work fine. The flywheel appears to be fine; trigger magnet(s) intact and not loose. One of the outer magnets is cracked but it is secure (the outer magnets are primarily for charging, correct?). I have isolated the stop circuit both by disconnecting the black/yellow wires and also by disconnecting the main harness (large red plug) and jumping the solenoid to start and neither made a difference. I isolated the rectifier (I think I did it correctly) by disconnecting the yellow wires from stator.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

In post #16, you state and I quote " If I move power pack or coils to the other bank they work fine."

If this means that you switch the powerpacks, and the problem follows the powerpack.... I've lost track of which bank is or isn't firing, BUT if the starboard bank wasn't firing, then you switched packs, and then it became the port bank that isn't firing... the bank that isn't firing has a faulty powerpack.

The stator was obviously and visually melted down and faulty... the timer base had flawed ohm readings which would entitle it as faulty, and this reveals a failed powerpack if I'm understanding you properly.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Did you change the plugs over too?
Check the output on the new timer base just in case you got a dud

 

[SEGAangler]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

Joe I apologize for not being clearer; the port side has fire and the starboard does not. If I move power pack, coils, stator wires, even timer base wires to the port side I still get fire there (port). All components will work when hooked up on port side but no fire on starboard. I completely changed all the plugs (referring to spark plugs Bosunsmate?). The new timer base ohm readings were good prior to installation and at least up to this point they are still good (I re-check after I try anything to ensure I have not blown it out).

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1984 Evinrude 150 stator

I'm assuming that in testing for spark, you have all of the spark plugs removed, a known good fully charged battery, and that the engine is cranking over at least 300 rpms... needed in order for the stator to energize the powerpack properly.

Your post above #19: Okay, understood... there is no ignition on the starboard bank regardless of what you switch around.

You have the following components installed: New Stator, New Timing Base, and known good powerpacks and coils... and in switching these items to the port side find that they do cause ignition to exist on the port side... BUT even with these items connected properly (port & strb wired properly), you have eliminated the kill circuit to starboard by disconnecting the black/yellow wire from the powerpack... BUT still have no ignition on the starboard bank.

Am I correct so far? If so............

(Electrical Pins/Sockets - Poor Connection)
(J. Reeves)

The electrical rubber connectors that house a series of Pins and Sockets within them have a flaw which can easily be overlooked. The pin or socket (or both) has a habit of being pushed back slightly in the procedure of pulling that plug apart and pushing it back together when replacing a component or doing test work, resulting in a poor connection or none at all.

Also, the wire that is attached to these pins and sockets has been known to break away from the pins/sockets which results in either a very poor or no connection at all. I've found many instances where the wire is held tight in the rubber connector by pure friction but in reality is not making any connection.

Be sure to check all of those rubber plugs for the proper pin/socket position and their wiring attachment.