1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

[shotout]

I purchased a 1997 Evinrude 130 from a private party and when we tested the motor at purchase the tilt and trim did not work. The motor had been lying on it's side and when we hung it up vertical we tested the t and t with the button on the cowl. The t&t motor seemed to work fine (t&t motor working) but no movement of motor. We checked the fluid level and it checked out ok. The owner of the yard where it was stored stated that maybe it was because it had laid on it's side and when it was vertical the air would go out of system. So anyway I now have it hanging in my garage from an engine hoist and the t&t motor works fine in both directions but no movement. There are no leaks of fluid anywhere. How should I proceed? Crack fill screw so air can escape? Loosen manual release screw? Thank you for any help that may be offered. Have a nice day.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

(PTT Oil Pump Air Lock)
(J. Reeves)

When the PTT unit is as it should be, the electric motor runs, the manual release valve is closed, the unit is full of lubricant, and nothing works, the usual problem is an air lock under the oil pump Proceed with the following.

Engine in full tilt position. Remove reservoir fill plug screw. Insert a air nozzle up against the reservoir fill hole with rags (or something) packed around it to obtain a tight fit. Apply just a slight amount of pressurized air (10 psi resommended) to the reservoir. This will force the oil under the oil pump to remove the air lock. DO NOT go crazy with the air pressure (15 psi tops!).

NOTE: The reservoir should be filled to overflowing when the engine is in the fully tilted UP position.

 

[James R]

Re: 1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

Good info from Joe as always. If the manual bypass is not screwed down then the motor will run but nothing happens.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

if it was me and i was not in a rush ...
set or mount engine upright. open manual release and move engine a few inches. just enough to move about 1tbsp of fluid around. let it sit for a day or two so that trapped air can work its way through the mesh filter and float to top.

Joe's compressed air is similar. He is pushing oil down into the gears to prime the system.

the dangers of setting a system on side long enough for pump to run dry are - surface rust on ball bearings can lead to intermittent and quirky behavior. dry gears can burn their spindles resulting in a noisy and/or finicky system.

 

[shotout]

Re: 1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

Ok guys, first thank you for your previous answers. I looked at it today and the reservoir screw is stripped. So the first thing is to repair or replace it. Any ideas as to proceed in the best manner. If I take the reservoir off so I can get it to a bench what am I liable to run into? Really not looking forward to parts going flying upon disassembly. Thank you in advance for any help that you can offer.

 

[James R]

Re: 1997 Evinrude tilt and trim questions

To remove the t/t unit you may need to disconnect the Electrical cable in the motor and remove the plug to pull the cable out. However if you have a bench that you can put close to the unit there may be enough slack to give you access. The motor will need to be latched or blocked in the full up position to pull t/t the unit out. With the motor up you will need to remove the pin securing the tilt cylinder at the top. A circlip may be securing it. With that done remove the bolts securing the t/t unit and pull it out. It is heavy.

 

[Schmie98]

Hey guys, I'm working on a 1997 90hp 2 stroke, getting some leaks from my trim unit. Looks like it may be coming from the oil line assembly where it meets the main cylinder because every time i trim down i get a leak. Tried to simply take the oil line off to see if my o-ring had gone bad, but can't get a good look in there. Tried taking the mounting screws out to remove the whole unit (3 on each side), leaving the bushings attached to the main push rod, but I can't get the manifold to budge. Any tips/tricks to get that thing out of there so I can get a new o-ring in place?

Lastly, if it's not a simple o-ring problem, worth buying the brush/seal kit, or just take it to the shop? I'm tired of having an oil slick behind the boat, and sure don't want to keep polluting if I can help it. Thanks!

 

[Tim Frank]

Welcome aboard.
Looks like you missed the Forum greeting and instructions/rules. at the top of the page:



Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone else�s topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when it�s posted at the end of someone else�s topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.


http://forums.iboats.com/forum/other...t-in-the-rules

 

[GA_Boater]

Hey guys, I'm working on a 1997 90hp 2 stroke, getting some leaks from my trim unit. Looks like it may be coming from the oil line assembly where it meets the main cylinder because every time i trim down i get a leak. Tried to simply take the oil line off to see if my o-ring had gone bad, but can't get a good look in there. Tried taking the mounting screws out to remove the whole unit (3 on each side), leaving the bushings attached to the main push rod, but I can't get the manifold to budge. Any tips/tricks to get that thing out of there so I can get a new o-ring in place?

Lastly, if it's not a simple o-ring problem, worth buying the brush/seal kit, or just take it to the shop? I'm tired of having an oil slick behind the boat, and sure don't want to keep polluting if I can help it. Thanks!

Please start a new topic with your question.