Re: 1984 evinrude 60hp 2 cyl E60tlc. wont start
Jonny evin said:
I have an 1984 evinrude 60hp 2 cyl E60tlc. It would only run for 5-20 mins max it had spark and fuel and compression but would only start after about an hour once it stopped. When it ran it would run nice no problems starting. I replaced the stator, coil assembly laminate, and timing base sensor, power pack, coils, leads, rectifier and spark plugs, also the primer solenoid gasket as it was leaking. The motor wont start now, it has an awesome spark and the primer soleniod is pumping fuel. I have no idea where to go, is the timing out, air in the fuel line or something else.
You haven't mentioned that the engine even attempts to fire, backfire, whatever, so I am under the assumption that the engine cranks over at a normal fast cranking rpm and makes absolutely no attempt to fire occasionally or start.
That "awesome" spark.... With all spark plugs removed, it must jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Is that what you've got?
Did the engine start okay "before" you replaced that primer solenoid gasket... and now it doesn't? If so, check the solenoid for proper operation by...... pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard, find the small prime hoses attached to the primer solenoid and remove one from the carburetor, intake manifold, whatever it is attached to, turn the key to the RUN position (engine NOT running), observe that loose hose and push the key in to activate the primer solenoid. Fuel should shoot out of it... Did it?
The individual components you replaced on the timer base must be positioned just right so that they are the proper distance from the flywheel magnets. If you do not have the proper service tool, look at the seat upon which they sit... look for a slight bevel at the top of the seating area. The vertical edge of the component must be aligned with the top edge of that bevel.
The timing is set by the alignment of the tapered flywheel slot with the tapered crankshaft slot via the flywheel key. Unless that key is sheared... which it could very well be if you didn't torque that flywheel nut to factory specifications, the engine is in time.
Hopefully you haven't moved out of adjustment the full throttle spark advance screw (which you could reset later), but even if you did, that would not prevent the engine from starting.
I see no mention of compression here.... what are the psi readings of the individual cylinders?
If you have compression, proper spark, and fuel being delivered to the cylinders, the engine has to start and run.
When all is well, the reasons for having the engine run for a short time, then stop and not restart unless it sits 30 minutes or so is:
1 - Layward voltage being supplied to the Black/Yellow (kill circuit) of the powerpack. Disconnect that wire, hook up a volt meter to it, set so that the meter will read the absolute lowest voltage if it exists, then turn the key to the RUN (engine not running) and observe the meter. If the meter shows even a micro volt... replace the ignition switch and run the test again to double check.
2 - Engine overheating... which would be obvious.
3 - Fuel restriction... usually a anti siphon valve sticking. Normally obvious as the primer bulb will attempt to be drawn flat. The anti siphon valve is located where the fuel hose attaches to the built in fuel tank (if it exists).
4 - A overheating stator will result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack (erratic ignition). However, you've already replaced this component.
Let us know what you find.
