1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
I recently fixed up a 1974 15hp evinrude model 15404s. it has new fuel pump and lines, carb was cleaned, new head gasket, new everything to do with the cooling system. the motor runs great but after test runs my wot is 4320rpm with the factory 9 1/2x10 prop and I need to be running between 5500-6500rpm anyone have any idea what could be keeping my rpm low?

ive checked the throttle and the stator ring travels its full distance and opens the carb linkage fully..
 

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

have not checked, wasn't concerned about it since the engine runs so smoothly, idles great, great takeoff just low wot rpm. I will check it in the next day or 2 and let you know.
 

Daviet

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Messages
8,958
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

Has the engine/boat combination ever preformed properly, what type and size boat is it on?
 

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

no. I received the boat and separate motor in a trade. the boat is a 16x50 ouchita aluminum flat bottom. I did all the work and got the motor running great but don't have the rpm to get the boat on plane. I have another thread in the prop section getting advice because I thought the problem was prop pitch. but after a test running the other day with an inductive tach to determine engine rpm I believe that I still have some sort of motor problem keeping my rpm down
 

Daviet

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Messages
8,958
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

If you are trying to move to heavy of a boat, you probably will not develope theproper rpm.
By 16X50, do you mean 16' long and a beam of 50", sounds like a lot of boat for a 15hp engine.
 

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

yes 16' x 50" the boats weight is around 300lbs total weight with myself, gear, fuel, batteries is around 700
 

Daviet

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Messages
8,958
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

Is the engine trimmed properly, cavation plate even with the bottom of the boat?
 

OptsyEagle

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,356
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

Is the engine trimmed properly, cavation plate even with the bottom of the boat?

Yes. Try changing the holes that your trim rod goes into and check the various RPMs for each hole/trim position. This can make a huge difference.

Also, do a spark plug boot pull test. With insulated pliers and the motor on a fast idle, pull a spark plug boot, one at a time to see how well the motor runs on each cylinder. Perhaps one of your cylinders is week. The motor should run well on either cylinder.

Also, verify that your sparks timing advance is synchronized properly by ensuring your carb roller is positioned correctly with the indented arrow on your throttle cam.
 

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

ive also been working with those issues. I had to cut the 20" transom down to 17" to work with the short shaft motor and im still thinking I may need to go an inch lower. trimmed down the plate is even with the bottom of the boat but the prop is facing down instead of being level, all the way down I have no cavitation/ventilation issues. when I raise trim to the 3rd notch where the prop will run level in the water the plate sits about 3/4 inch above the bottom of the boat but I get such bad cavitation that I cant get anywhere near wot. here are some pictures. the daytime pictures show the motor trimmed all the way down, the pictures ive taken tonight show the trim out to the 3rd (middle hole).IMG_5337 (800x600).jpgIMG_5338 (800x600).jpgIMG_5363 (800x600).jpgIMG_5365 (800x600).jpg
 

wolfman77

Cadet
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
17
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

so.... the mark on the spark advance cam was way off from the roller and the idle adjustment screw was all the way in to compensate...(i was not the last one to put this together) i adjusted and got everything where its supposed to be. ill test run sometime this week and let you guys know what happens.. thanks for the ideas
 

OptsyEagle

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,356
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

On the spark timing note. The first order for setting your spark timing is to set your points correctly. They should be set at 0.020" gap on the set mark on the points cam. This times your spark for maximum power. Have you also done this? Fairly important if you want maximum performance.

I am not an expert on cavitation but I would think that having the prop facing down a little when stationary would be preferred since it should push up the front of the boat when under power. My method is to keep moving the trim rod out from the transom until the boat starts bobbing up and down when I am at WOT. I then use the trim hole, one hole closer to the transom and that is what I assumed was my best trim. Not overly scientific but it works for me. That method has it at position 3 when two people are in my boat, 2 when it is just me, but with a very heavy trolling motor and battery in the bow, and 1 when I don't have the trolling motor. If I do that, my motor always manages to pin me to my seat when I open it up to WOT in my 14' aluminum springbok. I have a 1976 15Hp which is basically identical to yours. I have no idea what my RPMs are, however.
 
Last edited:

JBIII

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 21, 2008
Messages
33
Re: 1974 15hp evinrude low wot rpm with factory prop?

I'm not an expert on anything, and I'm not trying to be a wize guy or anything. But I hear a lot of people talking about cavation and ventilation/aeration, and confusing the two. And so did I until about 15 years ago right after I bought my first boat. Then my boss gave me a copy of Chapman's Piloting, Steamship & Small boat handling. And was I ever surprized when I found out what they actually meant.

Enjoy,

?"Propeller ventilation" is caused by air from the surface or exhaust gases being drawn into the rotating propeller blades. This results in the propeller slipping more than usual due to the reduced water load on the blades. The obvious symptoms of this are a sudden increase in engine RPM (over-reving) as well as a possible loss of speed. This commonly occurs when trying to turn the boat at high planing speeds or if the outboard or sterndrive is trimmed out too high.

In racing conditions this can also occur when following another boat too closely. The small bubbles in the water created by the leading boat can cause ventilation of the propeller of the following boat, with a subsequent loss of speed. This is why you rarely see high speed race boats following directly in the line of the leading boats, even if they are far enough back to be out of the spray and wake.
Most drives and outboards have a plate above the propeller area designed to keep surface air from entering the blade area. This plate is correctly called the "anti-ventilation plate", although you will often see it referred to as the "anti-cavitation plate". Through-hub exhaust systems also have specially designed hubs to keep exhaust gases from entering the blade area.


"Propeller cavitation" is less obvious than ventilation, but can be far more damaging. When the propeller blade passes through the water at an increasing speed, the pressure that holds the water to the sides of the blades is lowered. If the water is sufficiently warm, and depending on the speed of the boat, boiling can occur forming steam bubbles. During normal propeller operation, low pressure exists on the blade back. Normally, the pressure does not drop low enough for boiling to occur. However, ventilation, poor blade design or selection, or blade damage can cause an unusual pressure drop on a small area of the blade. Boiling can occur in this small area. As the water boils, bubbles bubbles form. As the boiling water passes to a higher pressure area of the blade, the boiling stops and the bubbles collapse. The collapsing bubbles release enough energy to erode the surface of the blade. This entire process of pressure drop, boiling, and bubble collapse is called "cavitation" and the damage caused by the collapsing bubbles is called a "cavitation burn". It is important to remember that cavitation is caused by a decrease in pressure, not an increase in temperature. One of the advantages of stainless steel propellers is that due to their superior strength they can withstand cavitation damage better than aluminum and can also be produced with thinner blades to reduce the occurrence of cavitation.?

I just think it is amazing that the propeller go fast enough to boil water. It's sort of like the space shuttle on re-entry gets red hot. Amazing.
 
Top