1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

eastcoastkid

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i had been recently givin this 1966 33 hp evinrude and have been trying to get it runnning i dont really have any experience with engines in general but im a pretty quick learner so ive been able to tackle just about everything so far

ive wired the ignition got it working (still not sure of the kill switch wiring) help?
also it wont stay running carbs have been cleaned starter has been cleaned and rebuilt plugs have plenty of spark but seem dry to me when i pull them but fuel seems to be getting to the carb
fuel pump maybe... if so where do i find one i cant seem to find that model on here

is it worth my time and money to be spending on this or should i just pick something up newer
 

doityourself

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

I have a '68 version (same) and love it. Just spent $200 on my '75 with electronics. No electronics on the '68. All the parts are still available. Did you try pumping the fuel line bulb to keep it running. If it works like that, it's not the fuel pump.
 

nwcove

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

welcome to iboats!! the first thing you should do is a proper compression test. that will tell the tale of whether or not to spend time and $$ on it. also have a look at the top secret file at the beginning of this forum......awakening a sleeping outboard.
hmmmm....."eastcoastkid".....where from the east coast??
 

eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

welcome to iboats!! the first thing you should do is a proper compression test. that will tell the tale of whether or not to spend time and $$ on it. also have a look at the top secret file at the beginning of this forum......awakening a sleeping outboard.
hmmmm....."eastcoastkid".....where from the east coast??

Cape Breton hahaha
compression seems fine i just dont understand why the plugs arent soaked after me trying to start it repeatedly ive tryed pumping the ball while its running but it quits on me within the first 20 seconds i have looked at the other page i feel like ive gotten most of the little stuff out of the way i.e spark carb cleaned, new selinoid, starter cleaned and rebuilt. im pretty sure theres a leak in the leg because the oil comes out milky no big deal seals on the bottom end arent bad water pump spits out water at the thumb sized hole in the leg half way up but i cant get the dam thing to stay running when it runs the bulb gets soft again so that means its sucking fuel to some extent no?
 

nwcove

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

ahh.....a relocated "caper"!! used to go to judique every year hunting. i still would suggest a proper compression test, you can borrow a tester from most uap stores...with a refundable deposit. other than that, have you had a look at the coils? if they are original, they are nfg. when you say you cleaned the carb.....did you soak it overnight and re kit it, or just blow it out with carb cleaner? you could also try putting some premix in a squirt bottle and give it a shot straight into the carb when it starts to stall. that will confirm a fuel issue or spark issue.
 

F_R

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

Plugs shouldn't get wet unless it is flooded. I think you should be looking at the ignition system. It may have bad coils. The fact it has spark doesn't rule that out. Most carburetor problems...are not.
 

kfa4303

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eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

thanks for the help.. i just soaked the carb and pulled it apart and cleaned it im going to buy a carb kit for it today.. also i think the fuel pump isnt pumping the fuel like its supposed to i pulled the fuel line to the carb and turned over the engine and it spits about an inch out stops spits stop spits ect should that have some force behind it?

and the high speed and low speed needles need to be set anyone know how to do that?
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

Hello again kid. The fuel pump sounds ok, actually. I would focus on one issue at a time. Get the carb cleaned and rebuilt (don't skip the welch plugs), then test the motor. If it's still wonky you can move on the the fuel pump. In the mean time, one way to the condition of the fuel pump is to squeeze the primer bulb prior to start. It should get and stay nice and firm after a few squeezes, if the pump is good. If it fails to do so, then the pump may be bad. You can also get the motor running and manually squeeze the bulb as the motor starts to die. If it pick up after you squeeze the pump, then that is another sign the pump is failing. If the pump is in fact bad, I think you'll have to buy a new/used on because this particular model of fuel pump cannot be rebuilt.

Here's a link on how to set the carb needles as well.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

ok so i picked up the carb kit and the fuel pump ill take care of the carb first and set the needles accordingly if this works i can just return the fuel pump its no big deal. pretty awesome how quick you guys respond with help. ill try this stuff out and get back with my findings thanks again
 

eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

So I found out the safety switch and cut off weren't hooked up properly I'm assuming this could be causing my problems?
 

Herb24

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

How are you doing on this?

I have a 1966 Evinrude 33 ski twin,

I am not using a keyed ignition, just rockers and push buttons. My point is that the two magneto leads should be an OPEN CIRCUIT while your trying to run the engine. when the magneto killswitch circuit is closed there is no spark.

Proper wiring of the leads on my motor, one goes from from the magneto to your keyed ignition (or in my case a toggle siwth i hooked up because i didnt want a keyed ignition), and the other lead goes from the vacuum switch on the motor, (which is grounded by another safety switch) to the other magneto lead on your on your keyed ignition.



hopefully i described that well enough. sorry.
 

eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

Im currently waiting for a new vacume cut off I pulled the other one apart and the gasket was torn I don't know if this was what was stopping the engine from staying running for more than a minute compression was checked 115 psi in both got new fuel pump rebuilt the carb bought replacement push to choke ingnition found a proper wiring diagram everything seemed to work as it should engine still wouldn't stay running replaced both spark plugs and all fuel lines. Still same thing so that's when I pulled apart the cut off I'm missing the neutral safety switch but from what I'm told I don't need it to run the engine I seem to be getting lots of spark and fuel is getting to the carb so I'm at a wall again just hoping it's the cut off
 

doityourself

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

What do you mean by "seem to be getting spark"? When the motor quits, have you verified that you still have spark by actually attaching the spark plug lead to a grounded plug and seeing the spark? Or how?

Seems like you could disconnect the wire to the vacuum cut out to eliminate that as a cause of stoppage.
 

eastcoastkid

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

What do you mean by "seem to be getting spark"? When the motor quits, have you verified that you still have spark by actually attaching the spark plug lead to a grounded plug and seeing the spark? Or how?

Seems like you could disconnect the wire to the vacuum cut out to eliminate that as a cause of stoppage.

ok no it definatly has spark yes i grounded the plugs and turned over the engine i have now gotten a newish cut off and installed it still cant keep this thing running for more than a minute i feel like ive tried everything
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

Hi kid. When you get the motor running and it starts to die, try manually squeezing the primer bulb to deliver fuel to the motor. If it wakes up and keeps running, that's a tell-tale sign you have a bad fuel pump. If it has no effect, then your issue is probably not fuel related. Also, I would check the spark with a proper gap tester. Grounding them on the block isn't the most accurate way to judge the strength of the spark. You can get a tester at any auto store for about $2. You should be able to get a spark that jumps a 1/4" spark with ease. Theses old girls really only need 3 things to run: compression, fuel and spark. If it has all three, it will run. The trick is to systematically confirm each item.
 

Herb24

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Re: 1966 33hp evinrude ski twin model number 33652d

Did you find the number for the fuel pump? replace it?
I had to replace mine, the original pump has been superseded by the following OMC part #0388685
your local dealer should stock them. Marine Engine Parts Search Results - MarineEngine.com
I recommend a new gasket as well.

Outboard Motors, Boat Parts, Marine Engines, Inboard Boat Motor is a great resource for looking up parts. I managed to get a new float bowl for my carburetor there. put in the model number of the motor (without the d) and you can find everything as far as parts go, some are discontinued or just unavailable though.

Here is the manual for the 1968 electric start ski twin, I found it to match my 1966 33652d in just about every single way.
4536709-Evinrude 33 Hp Ski-Twin 338 Series Workshop Manual
this manual will not be viewable from a phone/tablet, use a desktop PC to view the webpage and I noticed some of the pages are out of order. Maybe those would be resolved if you purchase it. but here you can at least take a look for free.

I had trouble keeping my engine running and turned out I accidently had the high speed/low speed needle setting mixed up. The manual states for this carb after a rebuild to seat the needles then then back out the high speed needle out 3/8 turn, and the low speed backed out 1-1/4 turns. chances are you will be turning them back in a little ways once you get the engine running.

Hope this helps,
Herb.
 
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