This motor has recoil and electric start and manual shift. I'm just trying to test for compression at this point and this motor isn't making it easy. First, just to clarify, do I leave one spark plug in while testing compression in the other cylinder?
Second, the pull starter has 3 little wings underneath that pivot and appear to engage the little toothed ring bolted to the top of the flywheel when pulling the rope (see pic below). For some reason they aren't. I lubed them and can move them in and out with a screwdriver. Put the starter back on the motor and got 1 pull out of it. Now the wings are pushed back into their little slots and are not engaging the flywheel. They look like they ride around on some sort of cam that should be pushing them out when you pull on the rope but I'm just not sure. It isn’t at all like the Ease-a-Matic recoil starter on a ’59 10hp I have. Here are some pics.
Third, I've included a youtube link to a video of what the starter is doing when I apply voltage directly to it.
Starter problem '71 40hp Evinrude - YouTube
The negative battery cable is grounded on the motor. The battery I'm using is fully charged. The starter spins up and engages the flywheel and spins it once and then makes a pitiful, slow attempt to turn the flywheel after that. It makes a slow rar, rar, rar sound. It did turn over well one time and I got 75lbs compression on the bottom cylinder. I don't know enough about starters to know what this thing is doing but I've read that sometimes it's just the bendix spring, which can be cheap enough to replace. I think the solenoid might be bad too because when I apply a screwdriver to the screw nearest the battery cable terminal on the solenoid and the positive battery terminal (on the solenoid) itself I get a few little sparks but the motor and starter don't respond at all. I guess tomorrow I’ll try putting a socket and adapter in a drill and see if I can turn it over enough to get compression readings that way.
I've read there's a cut-out switch too that can give people headaches. I can't wait to try to figure out how that fits in with all this. I have this page (continuousWave: Whaler: Reference: Electric Starting
) I found to read up on electric circuits on outboards so that should help. Ultimately, if I get good compression readings, I'll have to wire in a terminal block cause I'm missing the boat-side harness. Oh and I'll need a fuel pump too.:facepalm: Lots of stuff not quite right about this motor but then it was only $50.
Any help is much appreciated.
Second, the pull starter has 3 little wings underneath that pivot and appear to engage the little toothed ring bolted to the top of the flywheel when pulling the rope (see pic below). For some reason they aren't. I lubed them and can move them in and out with a screwdriver. Put the starter back on the motor and got 1 pull out of it. Now the wings are pushed back into their little slots and are not engaging the flywheel. They look like they ride around on some sort of cam that should be pushing them out when you pull on the rope but I'm just not sure. It isn’t at all like the Ease-a-Matic recoil starter on a ’59 10hp I have. Here are some pics.
Third, I've included a youtube link to a video of what the starter is doing when I apply voltage directly to it.
Starter problem '71 40hp Evinrude - YouTube
The negative battery cable is grounded on the motor. The battery I'm using is fully charged. The starter spins up and engages the flywheel and spins it once and then makes a pitiful, slow attempt to turn the flywheel after that. It makes a slow rar, rar, rar sound. It did turn over well one time and I got 75lbs compression on the bottom cylinder. I don't know enough about starters to know what this thing is doing but I've read that sometimes it's just the bendix spring, which can be cheap enough to replace. I think the solenoid might be bad too because when I apply a screwdriver to the screw nearest the battery cable terminal on the solenoid and the positive battery terminal (on the solenoid) itself I get a few little sparks but the motor and starter don't respond at all. I guess tomorrow I’ll try putting a socket and adapter in a drill and see if I can turn it over enough to get compression readings that way.
I've read there's a cut-out switch too that can give people headaches. I can't wait to try to figure out how that fits in with all this. I have this page (continuousWave: Whaler: Reference: Electric Starting
) I found to read up on electric circuits on outboards so that should help. Ultimately, if I get good compression readings, I'll have to wire in a terminal block cause I'm missing the boat-side harness. Oh and I'll need a fuel pump too.:facepalm: Lots of stuff not quite right about this motor but then it was only $50.
Any help is much appreciated.
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