Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

[trxxx250r]

I just aquired this motor and it will be a week or so before I get the service manual so forgive me for asking trivial questions... I've posted several regarding this motor...

I've rebuilt the carbs and they are going back on tomorrow and I want to get the torque right, especially since when I took them off some of the bolts were finger tight....

Also, I'm going to be taking off the "fuel manifold" or fuel rail to clean it out ( do I need to?). Is there anything I need to look out for or replace in the process?

Thanks for all advice!

Btw - this motor sat for years but it seems to be in excellent condition. The water pump was still in what seemed to be working condition although we replaced it. The carbs had thick oil in them but nothing dried out or varnish... I was stunned. The motor probably would've started as is had I tried it but I didn't want to risk it. 110 compression, good spark...

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Anyone?

 

[boobie]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

45-55 in. lbs.

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Thanks man, Should I use thread lock like permatex blue?

Also, do you think I need to replace the oring gasket between the manifold and the block or just torque er down.

I used a remote tank and squeezed the bulb to flush all old fuel and oil out of the lines, fuel pump and fuel rails, it's flowing free and clean now. I didn't see any seapage at the fuel rail and manifold. Should I just bolt up the rebuilt carbs and run it this way and check for any leakage after running?

Thanks!

 

[MaPaHa]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

I took the throttle body off on mine and cleaned it because it has the idle jets in it. (count the turns out on the idle screws and log it down) There is a complex o-ring between the throttle body and the oil injection plate that you may want to change. The way to get it to stay on there is to use a heavy body grease where the o-ring goes. I have taken it apart and cleaned out the throttle body without replacing the o-ring but the longer it's off the more chance the o-ring will get out of place. My last one I did the o-ring was torn and that's the biggest reason the motor wasn't running right. It's a gamble to not remove the throttle body as it may be part of the problem, and it's a gamble to remove it and not change the o-rings. There is a port side and starboard side and they are different o-rings.

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Good information! I understand exactly what you are saying. It's only been apart 12 hrs so no deformation of orings... Since everything was so clean I'm gonna go ahead and bolt it back up and see what happens. I'm leaving all the cowling off to run it in the driveway so if there's problems it won't take long to pull it back apart, especially not that I'm familiar with it (i think...Lol). I eliminated the VRO per J Reeves and will use a 6 gal tank to run it.

I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks

Oh! Btw - I looked at all the slow jets and they're all 40 except for cylinder #2, it's a 38... Is that unusual?

 

[MaPaHa]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

What I usually do to record the jets is to run them in until lightly snug and count the turns. Mine were 5 turns out and one was a little less. I set them all back at 5 turns out. I've got a '94 150 and a '96 175 and they were both the same as I remember. The last set I built was for the 150. My Clymer manual called for 3 out but I knew that wasn't right. Someone looked up in the OMC book for me and it was 5 out.

Be sure and install a inline fuel filter in you're hose. I got a good looking Mr Gasket high performance one that was chrome from the auto store. Don't want all that work to get messed up with trash.

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Cool, thanks!!!!

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Ok, motor back together and fired it up on the muffs. It spun for about 10 seconds and then another ten seconds then I pushed the key in and OMG! It fired up and wow, what a beast! Sounds awesome! I'm used to a Johnson 70...Lol.

Anyway, I let it idle for maybe 2 minutes and I coold feel temp in the cylinders right away. Tell tale was running strong and a trickle out the prop. However, the cylinders were getting really hot, way to hot to hold your hand on and the tell tale was hot so I shut it down. After about 30 min it fired right back up again but....

Question - is this normal? On my 70 you could hold your hand on the cylinders. I only ran it for several minutes but got concerned and shut it down, the cylinders were way too hot to touch. Is this normal or do I have a problem? THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to me as I don't want to burn up a ten thousand dollar motor in my drive way a week after i bought the boat!

What should the avg temp be of the cylinders if you were to use a infra red heat gun, etc? Tell tale temp?

This boat sat for 5-8 years in the elements but under the hood the motor was immaculate and I believe I did a really good job with the carbs, etc....

Any answers ASAP will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[phillnjack2]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

did you check the thermostats by any chance ?
if the engine has sat for a long time it could the thermostats stuck shut ?
or a lot of build up in the water jacket of the engine.

water comming from the tell tale should be pretty strong but not mega strong,this would indicate blockage somewhere or stats not opening.

what a bout putting the leg in a water butt and getting water up over the cavitation plate ?
take prop off first so you can put in gear and maybe give a very short quick blast to try and clear anything before it gets hot.

the oily fuel in carbs sounds like someone put that engine away fully winterised and well oiled up to save it .

i would definitely check the thermostat housing and see if any water is getting there ok.

temp of cylinder heads should be roughly 60-70 degre's Celsius or 140 to 160 Fahrenheit, when warmed up at the top plug area.
this should go down when revved up and running fast as more water gets through.
temp should be about the same as the 70hp motors.

i would aim at the thermostat housing and check it out.

just a few ideas

phill

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

Thanks, phill.

I did pull the tstats out last night and put them in a pan with a thermometer, they started to open at about 150. Is that the proper temp for these t-stats for this motor? I did fire the motor with the t-stats out and the caps off for a very short time, like 5-10 secs and nothing came out the holes. Is that normal or should I let it run a little longer?

How about running it without the t-stats to see what kind of difference it makes?

I supose I could also slowly run water from my hose into the t-stat holes (motor not running) and see if it freely drains anywhere?

Any other suggestions would be great. I'm gonna play with it again today and I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

 

[trxxx250r]

Re: Torque spec for the carb bolts on a 1995 Johnson 175 fast strike?

I pulled the lower unit and the water pump, rechecked everything and bolted it back together. Fired it up with the t-stat plugs out, after some revving water started to pop out of the holes. So I shut it doen and put the plugs in with no t-stats. We fired it up again but noticed (now that we had good light) that the water from the muffs was being completely sucked dry... Well we turned the hose up and problem solved. It's embarrasing and I'm not sure if this was the problem all along but maybe we just didn't have the faucet turned up high enough and the motor was starving for water the first time around which let to the over heating. Anywaym without the t-stats the cylinders and heads were running between 115 - 125... So we put the t-stats back in and batta bing, all cylinder were right at 140. So, problem sloved and motor is running great. Thanks for the support guys!

I'm taking it to the lake mondy for the first time to see how it runs.