2003 evinrude ficht 250

[Birdchaser305]

I have had a lot of problems with this motor. To begin I replaced the emm. Then it ran great for a year. Next the lower unit had to be replaced. Now the last time I took it out it shut off and I got towed in. I have the diagnostic software and I had two faults. One was the CPS loss of sync. Well the bolt holding it in place was missing. I replaced it. Second it had an over heat switch closed fault. I then changed the impeller. I no longer have any faults but the motor is missing at low RPMs. And I took it out for a test run and it died again after about 45 min. I couldn't get it started so I took the hood off and the EMM felt hot. About 20min later it started an I went back to the dock with no issues. I hooked up the diagnostic software and have NO FAULTS? I was concerned with the cooling of the EMM so I disconnected the hose to the top of the EMM and the water comes out a little or none at all. I shut the motor off and blew in and the was little or no resistance to the hose or EMM. I then performed the same with the hose on the bottom with little or no resistance. The last hose is much smaller and has a plastic disc but doesn't let any air pass. And when I blow into the fitting on the EMM it will not let air pass either. I also removed the thermostats to allow more water movement being I'm in south Florida and water temp is around 80 degrees. When I ran the diagnostic software the EMM was reading 53 degrees while the motor is at 41 degrees. My question is is the temp being 12 degrees hotter on the EMM a problem? Does it sound like the water flow causing the EMM to act abnormal? Again I getting NO lights on the tach. NO faults! But when I feel the EMM too hot to keep my hand on after 10min on the hose.

 

[Birdchaser305]

Re: 2003 evinrude ficht 250

I fIgured it was a tough one but, no one even tried to help?

 

[boobie]

Re: 2003 evinrude ficht 250

All I can say is go Completely through the water flow system for the EMM from start to finish. Do you have a factory service manual ??

 

[multimech]

Re: 2003 evinrude ficht 250

Yes a hotter temp on the EMM is not normal. You have blown through the holes and you have little resistance, right? I would suggest that you use a drill bit slightly smaller than the cooling passage on the EMM and gently try to remove any buildup on the sides of the tube. You may have a problem with heat transfer. This can happen in the waters in Florida.

Another problem may be that the EMM is overheating internally and is producing too much heat to cool it down with the water flow. You must first determine that the water flow is good through the EMM. Take each hose off while the engine is running. One at a time and watch the flow through it. If it is good, the water is cool, then I would say that the EMM has an internal problem causing the overheat.

The hose with the disc is an atmospeheric sampler for just before the engine is started and a sampler for the exhaust gases once the engine is running. It has nothing do with cooling.

If you have the software to check the engine then do some tests on the engine. Run the engine in gear. Drop a cylinder in turn and see if they have the same response. Use the fuel flow portion to change fuel flow to each injector and see if the engine stablizes while running. On some models, if you have a shop that is a BRP dealer, they may be able to talk to BRP and see if they will give you updated injector profiles to offset wear in injectors. Again this is only on certain year models. I have done this a number of times to get better running conditions at low speeds. Everything from poor throttle response to engine die out.

First and foremost make sure your fuel is clean, fresh. Get a gauge and monitor your fuel pressure. Does the pump hold pressure when shut off? If it doesn't you may have leaky fuel injector and etc. Use the software to monitor system voltage is it steady, or low. Your problem can come from many things other than the EMM.

 

[multimech]

Re: 2003 evinrude ficht 250

Despite some posts on this board, that bordered on nonesense. Your EMM has inbuilt sensors that should tell you if you are overheating the EMM.

 

[apg]

Re: 2003 evinrude ficht 250

Hi all, I was looking through the many threads on the net and happy I found this thread specifically and I will be watching it very closely. I also have a 2003 Evinrude Ficht 250 with 469hrs and just within the last week it has started to act up on me. Up until now it has been more or less flawless.

The problems I had last week and continuing forward are three fold.

First was the shifting in and out of gear went slightly off, when I shift into neutral at the remote it would not always go into neutral at the motor so at times some wiggling has to be done to get it into neutral, and reverse is hard to get into. I?ve adjusted it once and thought I had it centered but I didn?t so I?m still monkeying with that.

Next is the check engine light comes on at idle, this is only at idle never has happened while under power. Checked voltage, it was right on, EMM cooling maybe or..?

Finally and last, while under power higher RPMs (5500-6000) it starting popping or backfiring. I thought this was a lean condition from a bad injector, the common death sentence for these motors.

I brought it in to have it scanned at my local dealer (R&R Marine Shakopee MN....Booooo :facepalm:no other local option either). My main concern was the popping, I explained to them what I was experiencing and they looked into it. After the scan the only code that came back was code 28 if I remember right for the shift interrupter switch, it hit 9 times in the last hour of run time, nothing at all about the injectors. I was a little perplexed and questioned the scan repeatedly. The service manager said, and I quote, ?if the shift interrupter switch is faulty it will interrupt when it?s not supposed to which will most likely cause the popping sound due to a higher fuel/air mix in one of the cylinders when it does fire?. Grrrrrrrr but Okay, I guess?

I replaced the switch ($65.00), test ran it. No more popping, $65.00 victory for me, cheap fix (for now).

However! My Check Engine light is still toning and lighting up at idle and I dont have to wait long, 5 minutes maybe? Fail for me.

After reading this thread I?m wondering if it is possible that my linkage being out of whack will cause the light/tone or should I be looking at my EMM cooling???

Thanks in advance guys,
Andrew