1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

[HawkInstructor]

I have a '71 Evinrude 60hp 60173C. It has been sitting in a barn for about 15yrs. I have replaced fuel lines, rebuilt carbs, replaced impeller, replaced amplifier and coil, new plugs, checked all battery terminal and connections. I do not have any spark coming out of my coil wire to the top of the motor. The only time a spark will come off the coil wire is when i turn the ignition key from on to off. I am currently at a loss of what to do next.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

Temporarily remove the cable from the electric starter. Now, with the key in the RUN, then the START position, check to make sure that you do indeed have 12v applied to the amplifier. Reattach the cable to the starter.

The point setting on that model is critical. Clean the points with either lacquer thinner or acetone, then set as follows:

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

Let us know what you find.

 

[HawkInstructor]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

This morning I checked the voltage at the starter. It is 11.9 volts. I tried to test the volts at the blue wire from the amplifier to the coil, but did not get a reading. The CDI installation sheet said it should be 200 v at cranking. I am getting ready to go measure the points and clean them in a few minutes. Then off to work and try again tomorrow. I think I installed the new amplifier and coil correctly, so I don't understand why there is not power between the amplifier and coil. Does the power go from the amplifier to the coil or from the coil to the amplifier via the small blue wire?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

Voltage goes from the amplifier to the coil. Usually the lead from the amplifier that leads to the timer base (points) has a quick disconnect (plug/unplug) connector.

You can simulate the points opening and closing (for a spark test) simply by unplugging that connector then tapping the amplifier end against the crankcase (block).

The following may be of some help to you.

(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)

On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.

********************
(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
(J. Reeves)

Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.

 

[HawkInstructor]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

I cleaned and adjusted the points. THe engine fired right up, now I just need to adjust the carbs, verify it is cooling, and order the correct gear oil so it will shift correctly. Thanks for the time you have taken to post with info on this thread.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

 

[HawkInstructor]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

During the carburetor adjustment I discovered that it was running on the center cylinder and the bottom would fire on occasion. The top would not do anything. I replaced the plug wires and distributer, now it wont start again. When I am cranking it, there is exhaust smoke coming out, it just wont take off and run. I am not real sure where to start next. Any suggestions?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1971 60 hp Evinrude no spark to plugs

When you had the flywheel off, then re-installing it, did you make sure that the flywheel key was where it should be... straight vertical edge straight up and down, NOT aligned with the crankshaft taper?

Also, did you torque the flywheel nut to the specified 105 foot pounds? If not, the key is most likely sheared (out of time).