1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

[aquatone282]

Hi,

I am getting nothing when I turn my ignition switch on - no accessory power and nothing at the motor when I turn to the starting position.

I have confirmed the following with a volt/ohmmeter:

• Battery is fully charged - bilge pump on separate circuit runs fine
• 12 volts is present at the B* terminal on the switch.
• The kill switch and neutral switch are both good
• When disconnected, the switch passes continuity checks between the B and S terminals, the B and A terminals, and the B and C terminals when the switch is put in the appropriate position for each.
• When connected, there is NO voltage between the B and S terminals when the switch is in the starting position. There is NO voltage present between the B and C terminals when the switch is pushed in.
• There is only 5 volts present at the A terminal when the switch is on the ON position

What is confusing me is the switch passing continuity checks but not voltage checks. Is this an indication the switch is bad, or is it more likely something else in the circuit is the cause?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Jim

*B=battery, S=start, C=choke, A=accessory

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

The voltage at the "B" terminal should remain 12v when you turn the key to the START position.

If it does, suspect the ignition switch.

If it does not, you have a bad connection at some point between the battery and that "B" terminal (voltage drop). From what you've said, I suspect this is your problem... OR a faulty battery.... 12v only when not under a load.

 

[aquatone282]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

Thanks for your response!

I replaced the ignition switch but got the same results. I checked voltage at the B terminal and it was 5.4 volts - same as at the A terminal.

I disconnected the A terminal and the voltage at the B terminal returned to 12 volts, but the S and C terminals are still showing 0 volts.

I checked ohms for the kill switch again. 5 ohms with the switch closed AND open. Guessing 5 ohms is enough to keep the starter and choke from energizing? Going to replace it next and will post the results.

Thanks again for your help - any more suggestions greatly appreciated.

Jim

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

I checked voltage at the B terminal and it was 5.4 volts

As I said in my previous post..... "The voltage at the "B" terminal should remain 12v when you turn the key to the START position.

If it does not, you have a bad connection at some point between the battery and that "B" terminal (voltage drop). From what you've said, I suspect this is your problem... OR a faulty battery.... 12v only when not under a load.

Bottom line..... Your problem is that you have either a faulty battery or a bad connection between the voltage supply (battery) and that "B" terminal.... results in a voltage drop!

Why are you checking ohms and the kill switch?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

I think you are using flawed voltage testing. In your first post you said you don't have +12 volts between the "B" terminal and the "S" terminal when the switch is connected. If you have the positive probe on the "B" terminal and the negative probe on the "S" terminal of course you will not measure voltage. You are attempting to measure voltage between two connected points. You measure voltage from "B" to ground. +12 volts (yes or no). NO = fix it. Yes = turn key to "S" and measure "S" to ground (yes or no). No = bad switch. Yes = switch is good. Push key in and measure from "C" to ground (yes or no). Yes = switch is good. No = switch is bad. Turn switch to RUN and measure to ground (yes or no). Yes = switch is good. No = switch is bad. Understand that the first test must be at the "B" terminal for the other tests to produce valid results. If you do NOT have +12 volts on the "B" terminal with the switch in ANY position you have a wiring issue, you are using a poor ground for testing, a battery issue or improper testing. Lastly, when making resistance (ohms) checks, you cannot get proper results unless the circuit or component you are testing is isolated from all other circuits. In other words, when testing any componet, you need to make sure it is ONLY that component you are testing and not other stuff connected to it or in parallel with it. And you NEVER measure resistance on a powered circuit.

 

[aquatone282]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

Thank you.

The voltage drop at the B terminal was caused by the alarm. When the alarm is disconnected from the accessories circuit the voltage at both the B and A terminals returns to 12 volts.

As for voltage at the the S and C terminals, I checked it from each respective terminal to ground.

The ignition switch is good. The battery is good. The circuit between the battery and the switch is good.

The next logical step is to ensure the kill switch is isolated and check its ohms again.

I have never attempted to measure resistance on a circuit when its energized.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 Evinrude VRO 40 Ignition Switch Bad?

I 'm thinking about leaving the marine area of the "Dear Abby" advice section and going into painting outhouses or some such thing. Seems like I'm wasting a great amount of my time lately. I've noticed that quite a few of the more knowledgeable members have slacked off with their advice lately... same reason?

 

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