1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

saf0775

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Jun 14, 2013
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I've got two Johnson Seahorse's: a 1964 and a 1967. The '64 is an automatic, the '67 is a manual. Both run, but the '64 is stuck in forward.

Question #1: Can I swap out the top ends? The '67 overheated and has a scored cylinder, so I'm thinking the top end is toast.

Question #2: Is it more feasable (by feasable, I mean both less expensive and more likey to to fix the problem) to repair the bad lower end on the '64 instead of doing the top end swap?

I'm new to boating (so forgive me if my nomenclature is off), but I've got 12+ years as a GM master mechanic, so I know my way arround the toolbox just fine. Before I go all crazy with diagnosing or parts swapping, I thought I'd ask for some advice.

Stephen
Seattle, WA
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Mar 25, 2001
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45,907
Re: 1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

Howdy, saf.

:welcome:

Swap requires compatible model numbers. You offer no model numbers.

The electric shift foot defaults to FW when there is no power to the solenoids for N and R. That might be a simple fix.

As a Master Mechanic I am sure you agree that you need either training or an OEM Service Manual to deal with a new-to-you product.

Original outboard product and service manuals for Johnson, Evinrude, Gale, and OMC
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,195
Re: 1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

The 1964 40hp Electramatic defaults to neutral, not forward. It takes 12v to the green wire to make it go forward. So.....question becomes why are you getting voltage to the green wire? Bad or wrong shift switch? BTY, the wrong shift switch will seriously damage the lower unit clutches or break the drive shaft. It is not something to play around with without knowing what you are doing ($$$$).

Forward clutch could also be siezed. How does the gear oil look? Water or rust in it???
 

saf0775

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
9
Re: 1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

Howdy, saf.

:welcome:

Swap requires compatible model numbers. You offer no model numbers.

The electric shift foot defaults to FW when there is no power to the solenoids for N and R. That might be a simple fix.

As a Master Mechanic I am sure you agree that you need either training or an OEM Service Manual to deal with a new-to-you product.

Original outboard product and service manuals for Johnson, Evinrude, Gale, and OMC


In regards to the model #'s, they are both Super Seahorse 40's.

With regards to the service manual, I already ordered one two days ago (but thanks for the link!).

Just looking for some pre-advice before I get knee deep in these things.
 

saf0775

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
9
Re: 1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

The 1964 40hp Electramatic defaults to neutral, not forward. It takes 12v to the green wire to make it go forward. So.....question becomes why are you getting voltage to the green wire? Bad or wrong shift switch? BTY, the wrong shift switch will seriously damage the lower unit clutches or break the drive shaft. It is not something to play around with without knowing what you are doing ($$$$).

Forward clutch could also be siezed. How does the gear oil look? Water or rust in it???

I'll let you know tomorrow on all. I need to dust of the old multi-meter and do some probing.
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: 1964 Johnson Seahorse 40 Swap

The '64 40 HP Johnson Model number is either RD-26, RDS-26 or RK-26. They are not identical. The 1967 40HP (not in my book) is possibly model RD-29 or RDS-29 or RK-29.

I may be confused about the default. I respect F_R's knowledge, but remember being told if there was a electric shift failure the engine started in a usable condition (FWD) to get home. I may have confused it with another outboard.
 
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