1978 75hp Johnson MagFlashCD idle problem

TrollPro

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Joined
Jun 13, 2013
Messages
14
This is a bit of a long read, but I tried to include everything I could think of.

Normally I take the boat into a mechanic, however I entered a fishing tournament which is this Saturday (June 15th). I just got the boat/motor back from a mechanic who replaced a bad impeller/pump on Monday June 10th. The water pump works flawlessly now, however I believe I was running the engine with a bad impeller for an extended length of time.

Ok so the problem is a fairly common one, and after going through a lot of threads on here and trying a few different things I have a few questions so that maybe I can figure the problem out tomorrow and still fish the tourney on Saturday.

Engine runs fine on muffs (never ran it more than 60 seconds though), however under load (in water), it barely maintains an idle, but it can maintain it. However anything more stalls the engine. Short of taking apart the carbs and rebuilding them (not so confident I could do it in the given amount of time) what are some ideas?

I had the mechanic check the compression when the water pump was replaced, he said the compression was good, although he didn't give numbers. I also took the boat back to him today, and he checked the spark plugs and they were soaked with unburnt oil and pretty black, though I wouldn't go so far as to say they were fouled. He changed them out for fresh ones and I took the boat back down to the water and the problem was still there. Noticed my trim tab was missing, but was told that it wouldn't cause my problem.

So far with it back in the driveway I called most of the local shops and the earliest any one can look at it is Monday. So I began to tinker a bit. The carbs seem like they are in sync. Choke is working (side note: choked the engine as I gave it throttle under load and that killed the engine even faster). I took off the cover of the air intake and thought it was very odd there wasn't any sort of filter, I feel like there should most definitely be an air filter. Is there no air filter on this engine? I sprayed liberal amounts of sea foam into all 3 carbs with the throttle open, and closed, ran it on the muffs for a minute or so and didn't notice any difference. I was contemplating pulling the plugs and fogging the cylinders as well?

Also went from the fuel tanks (new last year), fuel line (new last year), the bulb, to the fuel filter. All appeared to be in good condition and not pulling any air. Filter looked brand new (may have been replaced in March when I took it in for de-winterizing/tune up). I've tried fresh fuel twice, but used the same oil (Sierra brand), mechanic recommended XD50 but with 18 gallons of fuel in the tanks I'm having a hard time believing its just the oil causing the problem. I was also told that I could fill up my car with the mix without problems, but that doesn't sound good and almost sounds like a way to watch my car blow up or something lol. If any one can confirm that its not harmful to my mini van I'll change the fuel/oil again tomorrow.

I also read that the linkage that operates the carbs has to "hit it just right" when it activates, I assume this is the curved metal plate that links everything together and has a position labeled "start" on it. The nut holding that plate was slightly loose and my first instinct was to tighten it but stopped at hand tight just in case it shouldn't be torqued too much. How can you tell if its activating the carbs at the right time? Mechanic also suggested adjusting the idling screw which is the lower of the 2 adjustment screws (according to him). My question is which direction adjusts the idle up/down? Clockwise,counter clockwise? Also there is another adjustment screw above it, what is that screws function?

I plan to do another check of the boat side fuel system, possibly drain and refill with fresh mix, check the spark on all the cylinders, also contemplated pulling off spark wires to see if I had a dead cylinder (wouldn't the compression check have shown a cylinder down?), contemplated fogging all the cylinders with sea foam, and lastly playing with the idle screw/linkages in the morning and then taking it back in the water and see if the problem is resolved or not before I officially accept defeat.

Anyone who managed to read all that, I applaud you, any one who helps me, I salute you!
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: 1978 75hp Johnson MagFlashCD idle problem

Does it run rough just when it is cold or does it still do it after it has warmed up? My 70 runs rough when its cold I just lift on my warm up lever until it smooths out, the lever goes back down when the throttle is pushed forward.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Re: 1978 75hp Johnson MagFlashCD idle problem

OK, ask the mechanic where the heck your trim tab is, he had to of taken it off when dropping the lower unit to do the water pump repair. You would have some issues with steering torque while up on a plane I should think.

There is not an air filter since there's no dust or dirt on water.

Lord no don't put pre-mix fuel in your car, your mini vans O2 sensors would pop a SE light and send you off to a auto mechanic to have them replaced at a huge expense.

My 1977 Johnson had a similar problem last year, would idle and start to take off and then bog down and die unless I backed off the throttle. Too much air and not enough fuel. Turned out my fuel pump diaphragm was stiff from age and wouldn't pump enough fuel.
 

TrollPro

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2013
Messages
14
I know this is an old post but I'd figured I'd update it. Well after this I had the mechanic completely rip apart and clean the carbs in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then rebuilt them. This alleviated some of the issues but introduced a new one. I was able to get it to run under a load after cleaning the carbs, but it would not plane out. Could not for the life of me figure out why. Bought a clymer manual, started reading and studying the diagrams. Talked to my mechanic again and he mentioned that there was sometimes a plastic retainer ring under the timer base that would melt if you over heated the engine causing the timer base to stick and not advance the timing. Replaced that ring, and everything was back to normal yay!

Not so fast, it was normal for all of about 2 trips when I made the terrible mistake of messing with the timing screw, must have advanced it too much or retarded it too much because it back fired badly and the engine died. Tried to start over and over with no luck. Got it home, checked the plugs, and my bottom plug was SHINY clean, with water in the plug. That's not good. Hoped it was just water in the fuel so I drained the carbs and gas tank and refilled with new. The next day I blew up my tow vehicle so the boat went into storage where it sat for a year.

Fast forward to a month ago and I finally get a new reliable tow vehicle so I pull the boat out, fill up the tanks with fresh gas, oil, and a healthy dose of seafoam, sprayed a little in the carbs and cranked the motor. Wouldn't start, so I check my plugs, water again. No way this is fuel this time. Check compression, 125, 127, 130, looks good. Visually inspect the head gasket and thermostat area, all looks tight and good from the last time I replaced them with the water pump. So I check the exhaust manifold, and indeed the gasket had blown. Pulled the manifold off, cleaned it all up, took it to a machine shop and had it properly machined, bolted her back up and tried again. Still wouldn't start, but was back firing. Hmm, its getting fuel, so checked spark, no spark on top cylinder. I made a new thread for this issue I'm having now.
 
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