'61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

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Hello,
I'm new to owning a boat, last summer I bought a '58 alumacraft 15' with a '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin electric start (15034-10961). It started up and ran great all summer till the fall when the key ignigtion failed and I tried to replace. I wired the kill switch wrong somehow and burnt up the wire harness.. Now It will run but only on one cylinder, I checked for spark and only the bottom plug shows spark. I haven't bought a Manual yet hoping that I can get away with not spending that 65$. What would be my first course of action to figure out why I'm not getting spark in both plug wire?
 

HighTrim

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Which section of wiring burned up? What did you cross in the wiring process?

I think I know what may have happened, but I would also pop the flywheel and go over the ignition system.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

I think I wired the kill switch straight through with positive instead of positive to one side and neg to other. The wire harness that runs from the fuse block in the front to the main power block in the back is what melted, I think there is 4 wires in it. A previous owner added a starter push button on the bottom part of the cover leading me to believe this motor might have not came with a starter originally, also no E in the model #? I just borrowed a flywheel puller from a friend and on my way to go pull it off right now. What should I look for? Again I'm new to outboards and don't know the correct names for the parts so thanks for any help and bearing with me.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

just a quick look over and the starter is definitely aftermarket because the addition starter bracket is black instead of the stock metallic blue color and the cylinoid is drilled onto the bottom cover like the addition starter button that has been spliced into the stock kill press button.

I also have a '68 18hp fastwin 18802e-15730 so if I can use any parts off of it..
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

ok got the flywheel off and nothing is noticably burnt up. But I also don't know what I'm looking at so I'll try to find some diagrams so I can't atleast understand what your telling me to test or look at.

Edit: Thanks to the top secret file I now know what the coil, condenser, and points are.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

I noticed one point was touching and the other wasn't so after I couldn't find my gap tester I put the flywheel nut back on and slowly hand cranked it and noticed one point was not functioning like the other so I'm assuming thats the promblem? Calling it quits for tonight...
 

kfa4303

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

HI Daniel. Here are some great links to familiarize yourself with your motor. Thankfully, the electronics in them are very simple and you should be able to fix everything yourself. You can also get any other parts you may need for routine maintenance right here at iboats. However, before you do anything else, make sure that the motor has good compression. You want each cylinder to be over 80psi with both cylinders within 10% of each other. Assuming the compression checks out, all the rest can be fixed with ease.

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie (overall tune up link)

3 HP Evinrude Lightwin Ignition System Tune-Up 1952-1967 (universal magneto rebuild link)

1961 Evinrude 15034 18 hp Outboard Motor Parts (parts catalog)
 

lindy46

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

If you applied 12 volts to the kill circuit, you most likely fried your coils. The kill circuit NEVER has power going to it. It merely grounds out the points.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

HI Daniel. Here are some great links to familiarize yourself with your motor. Thankfully, the electronics in them are very simple and you should be able to fix everything yourself. You can also get any other parts you may need for routine maintenance right here at iboats. However, before you do anything else, make sure that the motor has good compression. You want each cylinder to be over 80psi with both cylinders within 10% of each other. Assuming the compression checks out, all the rest can be fixed with ease.

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie (overall tune up link)

3 HP Evinrude Lightwin Ignition System Tune-Up 1952-1967 (universal magneto rebuild link)

1961 Evinrude 15034 18 hp Outboard Motor Parts (parts catalog)

Thanks for the links they are very helpful.. Is there a place to get a wire harness?
I checked the compression and they are both getting around 103-105psi.
I think I'm gonna go ahead and replace the coils, condensers, wires, plugs and boots.

Lindy: Thanks.. Since then I've read that, unfortunately I didn't try reading before I tried fixing.
 

kfa4303

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Hello again Daniel. It's probably cheaper/easier to simply make your own wiring harness, or to find a parts motor you can cannibalize. Not including the starter, there are really only 4 wires on the whole motor; 2 for the spark plugs and 2 for the kill switch. Make sure you use 7mm copper core s'plug wires as modern, graphite, automotive wires will not work. Once you have the motor able to start/stop manually you can worry about adding the electric start. Although, my '66 20hp starts in 1-2 pulls, so I don't even bother with a starter.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Now after looking at all the prices of the parts I'm leaning more on just replacing what is needed so I took the point of that wasn't springing closed properly cleaned it and adjusted the spring so it was closing properly and making contact with the condenser side of the point, flywheel back on and hit the start button..... Great blueish white spark that jumps 1/2" on the bottom plug wire but still nothing on the top plug wire..

Hightrim: what were you thinking was the promlem?
 

kfa4303

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

what "spring" are you adjusting? there shouldn't be any under the flywheel. the lac of spark is probably due to a loose/corroded spark plug wire in the #1 coil. the fact that one side is working is good. now you can use it as a template for the other side.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

there is a very thin flat spring on the point to hold the point closed. It was all black and burnt up not making conductivity so I looked up the part # for the points and they happen to be the same as my '68 fastwin so I use one off of it, put it back together and both plugs showing good spark.. I got her all cleaned up and took her out.. still not running flawless at trolling speed but she purrs nice at full throttle. Caught our first 2 lakers last night and boated another 5 this morning. I'm gonna take the carb off and get it cleaned up and hope the low speed hickups clear up and soon as I get some money I'm gonna get all new electric under the flywheel. I love being able to do the work myself and not pay the $80/hr labor that all the marinas around here charge.
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Great!! Thank you.. Your just full of good links:)
Do you have one for the wiring system for the the kill switch? And maybe one in-depth of what all the ignition components do? ie... coils does this and condenser does that and points do this...
I understand what the do as a whole, just not how each part works to create and regulate the spark to ignite the cylinders at a precise time. Also I read that that later '60s fastwin models have a update carb, would it be more reliable/consistant at slow trolling speeds if I were to put the '68 carb on my '61?
 

dkonrai

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

usually low idle issues are the packing seals on the needle valve, and or debris in the carb. pull the carb and clean it first, and look carefully down the low speed idle, everything should be nice and clean.
dino
 

kfa4303

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Hello again Daniel. The kill-switch is dead simple, if you'll pardon the pun. You simply run one wire to each set of points to the back of the switch. The point end of the wire will need a little crimp-on eye, while the switch end of the wire will need a crimp-on female adapter. You simply mount the eye to the points using the small screw that holds the coil wire and condenser wire in place. The switch end simply slips over the male post on the back of the switch itself. That's really all there is to it. The only tricky bit is routing the wires. Here are some pics of the fittings you'll need.

lanyard kill switch.jpg121222-insulated-crimp-on-electrical-connectors-labeled.jpgLightwin-new-magneto-labled-kill switch.jpg0714121430-01.jpg

As far as the ignition system as a whole, it's pretty ingenious system commonly referred to as a "magneto" (that's where they got the name for the X-men character). It essentially operates off of the natural phenomenon of electromagnetic induction in which an electrical current is created by moving a magnet past coils of copper (aka "a coil"). In this case the magnet is molded into the inner rim of the flywheel. When you pull/rotate the flywheel clockwise, the magnet passes the face of the coils, so named because they are simply large coils of copper wire mounted on an iron base and encased in plastic. By definition, any time a magnet passes by a copper wire, or vise versa, an electrical current is produced. The strength of the current depends on the strength of the magnet, the amount of copper and their proximity. The more powerful the magnet, the more coils and the closer they are, the stronger the current will be. Once the magnet passes by the face of the coil, a current is created which then travels to the capacitors (little smooth round cylinders). Capacitors are short term (milliseconds) storage devices that can hold/store a charge briefly, then release it all at once in a single "zap". If you've ever worked with Leyden Jars in science class, it's the same phenomenon. These capacitors release their zap when the points are opened by the rotating cam shaft lobe. This causes an intentional shorting the system, which causes the spark plug to fire and ignite the fuel. The points themselves operate sort of like clam shells, or castanets. As one pair is closed, the other is open which creates the alternate firing of the cylinders. As you can see it's a pretty simple system that relies on a natural phenomenon, rather than an outside source, to create the spark needed to ignite the fuel. Each cylinder uses 1 coil, 1 capacitor, 1 set of points, 1 spark plug wire and 1 spark plug and that's it. Not much to go wrong really. Modern motors, on the other hand, use solid state technology to crate a spark and generally rely on voo doo and black magic, which is why most folks here try to avoid them :) Hope that helps.

Here's another link that explains it too.

Magnetos
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Thank you very much!! that makes a lot more sense now..
 
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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Well the part kits should be here tomorrow for carburetor and ignition rebuilds.. This is a fishing boat and primarily used for trolling, I've read that the j6c is probably the best plug for trolling??

Also while I have this torn apart I'm going to fix the wiring harness and replace some dryrotted wires.
what gauge should I be using for the accessories and what gauge for the main Power and grounds that goto the starter and motor?
 

kfa4303

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Re: '61 evinrude 18hp fastwin 15034-10961 (NO SPARK IN 1 PLUG)

Hello again Daniel. I'm not sure about the wiring, but I run Champion J6C plugs on my 20hp without issue. You can also use J4C, but the J6C are a little hotter, which is nice if you're gonna troll a lot.
 
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