1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

[renee338]

i have this motor that will get spark on one cylinder and not on the other. i noticed one the one that does not spark that it has a wire that leads to the end of the wire harness into the plug that plugs into the control box or goes to front of boat. i do not have what plugs into that plug. could this be the reason im not getting spark on that cylinder. could someone tell me how to resolve this unless its just a coil that needs replaced. i just need to know how to start this old motor without being plugged up. thank you all!

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

i have this motor that will get spark on one cylinder and not on the other. i noticed one the one that does not spark that it has a wire that leads to the end of the wire harness into the plug that plugs into the control box or goes to front of boat. i do not have what plugs into that plug. could this be the reason im not getting spark on that cylinder. could someone tell me how to resolve this unless its just a coil that needs replaced. i just need to know how to start this old motor without being plugged up. thank you all!

There are few things you can do to see if the problem is the coil or not. Swap the two coils around. Take the one that is supplying good spark and change it with the coil that is not and see if you get spark then too. If not, you've located your problem. If you do get spark, then you have two good coils and further investigation is needed. Did you do a compression test to see if both cylinders are good enough to support ignition? Also what color wires are you talking about? Take some pictures and post for everybody to see what you're dealing with so we can give good answers and ideas. There are so many things that could hamper spark. It could be the coil that you can verify; it could be the points, the condenser, and many different things. Get some pictures and try the coil swap idea for better info and get back to us...

OH! And welcome aboard. Good to have another boater join...

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

There are few things you can do to see if the problem is the coil or not. Swap the two coils around. Take the one that is supplying good spark and change it with the coil that is not and see if you get spark then too. If not, you've located your problem. If you do get spark, then you have two good coils and further investigation is needed. Did you do a compression test to see if both cylinders are good enough to support ignition? Also what color wires are you talking about? Take some pictures and post for everybody to see what you're dealing with so we can give good answers and ideas. There are so many things that could hamper spark. It could be the coil that you can verify; it could be the points, the condenser, and many different things. Get some pictures and try the coil swap idea for better info and get back to us...

OH! And welcome aboard. Good to have another boater join...

I did this and found that my coils are good but one wire is a no go. what would i do next to diagnose this issue? oh and compression is 113 top cylinder and 117 bottom cylinder.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

Your motor has the OMC Lo-Tension Magneto. Actually, BOTH sides have a wire that goes to the plug and ultimately leads forward to the ignition switch. (Blue and Blue with White stripe). The ignition switch electrically connects those two wires together to turn the motor OFF. So....with the plug unplugged, the switch isn't there, cannot connect the wires together, and cannot turn the motor off. In other words, it should run with the plug unplugged. Look somewhere else for your trouble.

I can tell you that 90% of the troubles with those systems are the breaker points. Remove them, polish each contact shiny bright, reinstall and set gap to .020" at widest opening. Or simply replace them. But be advised that some new points need cleaning too because of oxidation over the years in storage.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

Your motor has the OMC Lo-Tension Magneto. Actually, BOTH sides have a wire that goes to the plug and ultimately leads forward to the ignition switch. (Blue and Blue with White stripe). The ignition switch electrically connects those two wires together to turn the motor OFF. So....with the plug unplugged, the switch isn't there, cannot connect the wires together, and cannot turn the motor off. In other words, it should run with the plug unplugged. Look somewhere else for your trouble.

I can tell you that 90% of the troubles with those systems are the breaker points. Remove them, polish each contact shiny bright, reinstall and set gap to .020" at widest opening. Or simply replace them. But be advised that some new points need cleaning too because of oxidation over the years in storage.

I see you tested the coils and found them both to be working. Like F_R above stated, it could easily be the points for that one cylinder, and he equally stated two options to maybe fix that problem as well. I may add, you could also have a shorted condenser too. They are usually not a problem with shorting but everything is a possibility. That is the round tubular part that is connected across the points to help eliminate arcing at the points. But if it is shorted, you will never get any spark ever from those points until that condenser is removed or replaced from the circuit. And for testing conditions that is exactly what I would do if it looked suspect. Remove the wire that comes out of the condenser that goes to the points and try to see if you get any spark. If you do, then you simply need a new condenser. But I would simply change both points and condensers IF they have never been changed previous just for newer better parts. I mean a 1976 Outboard is pretty old and could use some fresher parts... To check those parts requires the removal of the flywheel. While that seems quite simple, they are usually really on there pretty tight on a tapered keyed crankshaft. It takes a three armed quality flywheel removing tool to get it to come off. If you don’t have one Auto Zone will loan you one. And before you even get started, make very sure you get three grade 8 bolts to do that job and thread them in only 7/16”deep period! Not further and not less or you will possible strip the threads in the flywheel...not a good thing to do. It will take a good breaker bar type tool to remove the flywheel and it will pop off with a loud cracking sound as well. Just wanted to let you know ahead of time... Let us know what you find and take some pictures to post for us to see as well... Good luck!

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

I see you tested the coils and found them both to be working. Like F_R above stated, it could easily be the points for that one cylinder, and he equally stated two options to maybe fix that problem as well. I may add, you could also have a shorted condenser too. They are usually not a problem with shorting but everything is a possibility. That is the round tubular part that is connected across the points to help eliminate arcing at the points. But if it is shorted, you will never get any spark ever from those points until that condenser is removed or replaced from the circuit. And for testing conditions that is exactly what I would do if it looked suspect. Remove the wire that comes out of the condenser that goes to the points and try to see if you get any spark. If you do, then you simply need a new condenser. But I would simply change both points and condensers IF they have never been changed previous just for newer better parts. I mean a 1976 Outboard is pretty old and could use some fresher parts... To check those parts requires the removal of the flywheel. While that seems quite simple, they are usually really on there pretty tight on a tapered keyed crankshaft. It takes a three armed quality flywheel removing tool to get it to come off. If you don?t have one Auto Zone will loan you one. And before you even get started, make very sure you get three grade 8 bolts to do that job and thread them in only 7/16?deep period! Not further and not less or you will possible strip the threads in the flywheel...not a good thing to do. It will take a good breaker bar type tool to remove the flywheel and it will pop off with a loud cracking sound as well. Just wanted to let you know ahead of time... Let us know what you find and take some pictures to post for us to see as well... Good luck!

i will buy the tune up kit for it next week i will let you all know and i will see about getting pics.

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

i will buy the tune up kit for it next week i will let you all know and i will see about getting pics.

i bought the kit put it in the best of my knowledge and no fire on either plug now. new condensers and new points but im not sure if i really understood where to set the points. i set them at what i think is .020 at the highest part of the lobe of the crank where the line for the flywheel is im guessing thats the TDC. i need to know what i possibly did wrong not to mention setting them this way the points never touch the crank so im guessing i need to put one point to TDC and put the opposite at .020 where it will touch the lobe as it comes around. is this correct? please help

 

[FishinDave]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

If you replaced the points and you have everything back the way it was and now your not getting any spark, you may have set the gap for the points wrong. On each point, there is the contact side and a side that rides against the drive shaft. The side that rides against the drive shaft needs to be at the top of lobe( highest side of the drive shaft) when you set your gap to .020. Keep in mind that when you gap your points, you need to be able to slide your gap tool down between the points freely at .020 after tightening the adjustment screw. Many people make the mistake of leaving the gap tool in between the points, tightening down the adjustment screw, and then pulling the gap tool out and the points close tighter. I stress that you should have a gap of .020(or very slightly above)after tightening down the points.

 

[JDusza]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

Oh, boy.
Gotta check your work. sigh
Go back under the flywheel and check for loose or unconnected leads.
Check points gap before you loosen anything.
Unfortunately, you need to check it all; points and condenser harnesses, magneto, right out to the spark plug leads.
Good luck. Go slow. You'll get it.
J

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

If you replaced the points and you have everything back the way it was and now your not getting any spark, you may have set the gap for the points wrong. On each point, there is the contact side and a side that rides against the drive shaft. The side that rides against the drive shaft needs to be at the top of lobe( highest side of the drive shaft) when you set your gap to .020. Keep in mind that when you gap your points, you need to be able to slide your gap tool down between the points freely at .020 after tightening the adjustment screw. Many people make the mistake of leaving the gap tool in between the points, tightening down the adjustment screw, and then pulling the gap tool out and the points close tighter. I stress that you should have a gap of .020(or very slightly above)after tightening down the points.

checked again and no spark but i noticed the stator housing moves back and forth on the shaft just about .020 to .025 which moves the distance of the points 0.00 to 0.40. hopefully you understand.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

By back and forth, you mean sideways? If so, that is completely unreasonable. You need to pull it off and see what's wrong. That model has a good armature plate mounting system, unlike some others that were sloppy from the factory.

As for one of your other reports, the points' rubbing blocks should only touch the cam as the ride up and down over the high spot. In other positions, they should NOT be touching the cam.

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

By back and forth, you mean sideways? If so, that is completely unreasonable. You need to pull it off and see what's wrong. That model has a good armature plate mounting system, unlike some others that were sloppy from the factory.

As for one of your other reports, the points' rubbing blocks should only touch the cam as the ride up and down over the high spot. In other positions, they should NOT be touching the cam.

yes it wobbles back and forth. i will take it apart lter today. but oes anyone else know what could make it wobble maybe a bearing or something?

so also your saying that i should set my points on te low end of the shaft and not the top of the lobe? im so confused about this point stuff but im pretty sure alot of my problem is my armature moving side to side a little.

 

[renee338]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue

yes it wobbles back and forth. i will take it apart lter today. but oes anyone else know what could make it wobble maybe a bearing or something?

so also your saying that i should set my points on te low end of the shaft and not the top of the lobe? im so confused about this point stuff but im pretty sure alot of my problem is my armature moving side to side a little.

OK problem solved i set points to .020 on the low side off of the lobe when other side was at TDC and i now have spark on both. which is awesome but now it wont crak i have rebuilt the carb the starter the fuel pump and condensers and points still wont fire up. of coarse it turns over well but no ignition.

 

[Rootguitars]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue



OK problem solved i set points to .020 on the low side off of the lobe when other side was at TDC and i now have spark on both. which is awesome but now it wont crak i have rebuilt the carb the starter the fuel pump and condensers and points still wont fire up. of coarse it turns over well but no ignition.

New to this forum. Not quite sure how to proceed but will give it a go. I have a 1976 Evinrude 35 with the same problems. The driver coil is new and ohm tests out ok. The two ignition coils are also new. The points and condensers are also new And properly set to .20. The armature plate bushing was also worn out and was replaced with a good used one. The wires from the driver coil to the ignition coils have continuity. I get weak spark and intermittent spark as tested by an air gap tool. I have no idea what to try next. Any help certainly appreciated.

 

[Crosbyman]

Re: 1976 evinrude 35 hp spark issue



OK problem solved i set points to .020 on the low side off of the lobe when other side was at TDC and i now have spark on both. which is awesome but now it wont crak i have rebuilt the carb the starter the fuel pump and condensers and points still wont fire up. of coarse it turns over well but no ignition.

.020 on the low side of the lobe is not the way.... both sets should be .020 on the highest point of the lobe or use this method

 

[Crosbyman]

New to this forum. Not quite sure how to proceed but will give it a go. I have a 1976 Evinrude 35 with the same problems. The driver coil is new and ohm tests out ok. The two ignition coils are also new. The points and condensers are also new And properly set to .20. The armature plate bushing was also worn out and was replaced with a good used one. The wires from the driver coil to the ignition coils have continuity. I get weak spark and intermittent spark as tested by an air gap tool. I have no idea what to try next. Any help certainly appreciated.

you should open your own post for this separate problem .... otherwiseit gets confusing
btw ... clean clean clean the points with carb cleaner and blow dry

 

[Rootguitars]

you should open your own post for this separate problem .... otherwiseit gets confusing
btw ... clean clean clean the points with carb cleaner and blow dry

Thanks. How to open my own post? Points are clean also.