Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

[Coachjfk]

Recently acquired 1957 3hp Lightwin. Model 3022 for $40.

Seller said it was his Dad's motor and he could remember going out with it as a kid. Said it worked fine. When asked how long it had been sitting he guessed that it has not been in use for at least 30 years.

I suspect that he tried to take it apart to see what was wrong with it because all of the nuts and screws came out easily. Many by hand. Even the flywheel nut and flywheel opened up easily.

I intend to follow the procedure here: Outboard Boat Motor Repair and Tune-Up old Evinrude Johnson
for replacing coils, water pump impeller, and carb rebuild.

I know that I need the manual and would like to order with the parts.

In addition to the parts listed in the above link, I can tell that I should get:

300565 Propeller Clutch ring. What is procedure for replacing this? (Currently dry and cracked inside of propeller)

Propeller shaft cap looks OK. The nut is inside of the conical shaft cap but seems loose... Does it just sit inside of this cone?
There is no cotter pin. The hole in the shaft is full of rust, so I'm guessing that the pin rusted and sheared off when Previous Owner tried to take apart.

The in-tank fuel filter is completely disintegrated. The adapter is wrong and has been cobbled together to allow for non-standard fuel shut off valve. Tank appears to be sound but needs cleaning. Unplugged vent hole in cap.
Need: Fuel Shut off valve, Adapter to tank, flex fuel hose, Chain to keep cap from falling overboard, inline filter, clamps.

I can also see that at least one of the spark plug wires is pulled out from attachment to coil. Coils are in bad shape but planning on replacing. How do the wires attach to the coils? What kind of wire (I've read solid core) do I need? Where to get it? What Length?

I also need pull handle. Cord looks OK. I'll probably buy whole assembly, change handle and keep rope as spare.

Anything else that I should be getting.

I'll try to document process and keep advised of progress. In the end, I'm guessing that this 56 year old motor will work great with my 42 year old Sportspal canoe.

Thanks in advance.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

Great little motor you have there.

You need to get metallic core plug wire. Usually copper core. Do not get graphite auto wire. You can get it at your local OMC dealer by the foot. Put a little dielectric grease into the cavity with the pin in it, then twist the plug wire into the hole. That is all there is to it.

What is the compression of the motor? I would check that first before doing anything.

For the pull handle post a wanted ad in the webertize at aomci.org. A site that will come in handy for your motor.

Change the gear oil with new gaskets, and when cleaning the carb be sure to update the fuel line to modern ethanol proof line.

Once tuned and running, you should have alot of fun with her! Let us know how it goes.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

Here is your parts manual

Vintage Evinrude Johnson Outboard Parts & Diagrams - Catalog ITEM_2829

 

[Coachjfk]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

Thanks HighTrim for the reply. I'm not sure of the compression yet. My tester is with my other boat in the mountains 2 hours from here. I just got this motor for a little added fun around Long Beach Harbor when things warm up for my newly acquired canoe.

Not accurate I know... but when I pull the cord, I get good sound, and pressure build up from finger inserted into open spark plug hole, so I'm hopeful that they are at least even across the two cylinders.

Your comment on the spark plug wire gives me hope. Am I right to assume that there is only one "boot" end on these wires and that the other one just slides into a well silicone greased receiver on the coil assembly? I've heard that marine wires don't go "bad" like auto wires.

Can I just check the ohms for 0 resistance, clip back 1/4 inch or so to get clean solid wire contact and re-insert the current dangling end of the spark plug wire into the new coil and call it a day? Or do you think that I should buy new wires. After all, they are most likely 56 years old.

In the end, I'm looking to fix it once, then have a reliable motor for another few decades. Of course I'll have to change wear items and do normal PM like impellers and plugs.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

That will be your judgement call. If the wires look good, and measure good with a meter, clip them back and reuse them. No silicone needed. Just twist the wire into the coil and it will stay. I add dialectric grease. On the boot end, cut back 1/8" or so of insulation, fold the wires back over the insulated wire, insert the spring clip through the center of the wire, spray with WD40 then slide into the boot and you are done. If you did get new wire though would only cost you a few bucks. I almost always replace if it is original.

 

[F_R]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

Old plug wires often leak. That is to say, spark leaks through the insulation and arcs to ground. If you are going through all that work, replace them for a few bucks. Get new boots for the plug ends too. They rot and crack and then the spark arcs to the plug shell. The wire you are looking for will have stranded copper core, 7mm. Cars haven't used it for many years, but if you have trouble finding it, try a tractor parts place. Or simply order the right stuff when you order the rest of your parts.

That rubber cap just snaps onto the prop nut. Install the prop, then the nut and secure it with a stainless steel cotter pin, then snap the rubber cap on. You will have to pry/dig that old rubber ring out of the prop.

 

[Coachjfk]

Re: Revive 1958 3 hp Evinrude Lightwin - Spark Plug Wires ... Prop rubber?

Old plug wires often leak.

That's just what I was looking for. I figured that would probably be the case after 56 years.

That rubber cap just snaps onto the prop nut. Install the prop, then the nut and secure it with a stainless steel cotter pin, then snap the rubber cap on. You will have to pry/dig that old rubber ring out of the prop.

Thanks FR for your reply. You have confirmed both of the thoughts that I had. I'd just like to buy all the parts at once to cut down on shipping and more importantly so that I can put it all back together without having to go back in anytime soon.

Awesome replies point me in the right direction.

Thanks again.