Crazy ignition issues, 1988 Johnson 225

[beamer]

Re: Crazy ignition issues, 1988 Johnson 225

I hope you are using the instructions on page 52 of the CDI guide. The rectifier (Item 57) is under the power pack the yellow and yellow/gray wire runs from the stator charging coils to the rectifier those are the ones you want to disconnect. If you unplugged both yellow/black wires running into the power pack and then lost all spark which you have had previously I would start checking your wiring harnesses and all connectors. The magnets are under the fly wheel. You need to pull the flywheel to inspect them. If you do not have the BRP/OMC factory service manual you need to order one it will help you out greatly. Marineengine.com will have it to you in a couple of days. Do not buy the clymers or seloc manuals.


http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...hnson?ion=Ignition+System+&+Starter+Motor

I do not have the entire guide that I am using. I have been using their individual troubleshooting guides for specific parts, like the power pak and the timer base - to be specific. A link to the guide would be great, I will look for it after this post.

So you must be talking the far right 2 terminals on the strip under the power pak - inside. Like 7 & 8, I think. I have disconnected them in the past to test and no spark still.


I do not have a factory manual, it is one of the others that do not help, lol. This is a buddies (best friend other than my wife - I think, lol) boat and he is budgeted like crazy. I will mention about the factory service manual, but not sure if he will be able to do it.


Is there anything special to be cautious about to pull the flywheel prior to doing so? It is the one bolt on top, and what type of device is best to remove it?


Thanks again,
Mike

 

[hidef]

Re: Crazy ignition issues, 1988 Johnson 225

The guide is in my signature so it is easy to find. You will need a fly wheel puller and the appropriate bolts (3) to screw into the fly wheel. Seriously though I would check the entire wiring harness for shorts and make sure all connections are tight including all the grounds. The easiest way to test the rectifier is to disconnect all of the wires going into it and from it to remove it form the system.

 

[beamer]

Re: Crazy ignition issues, 1988 Johnson 225

Thanks for the heads up to the guide hidef ! That is the information I have been using, my copies are just individual sections split from this, I am sure.

I talked with Doug on the phone and he explained some things to help me understand this. I still believe the timer base is bad.

I was able to read the brown > brown/yellow power created by the magnets and I got 165VDC and 175VDC. Adequate, but not optimal. Documentation says they should be 150V or more.

Doug also asked me to check the resistance between the white > black/white wires in the timer base connectors. I had read 7M ohm before. I reversed the polarity and got 12M ohm in the other direction.

Again, I am thinking it is the timer base. Doug has one that I can borrow, so that would be VERY helpful !


The entire time that I have been testing, I have had the 2 kill wires disconnected to rule them out as problems. I have also verified several times that I am getting the 12VDC from the ignition switch on the purple wire on the terminal bank.



I am still trying to figure this out and taking all ideas !




Thanks all,
Mike