First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

[Cap'n Chaos]

Evinrude 18202. Stock 3 blade prop.

Low speed testing went fine. Half speed did fine, 3/4 speed did fine.

At WOT it slipped out of fwd... I slowed motor back to idle speed, shifted to neutral then to rvs. Nothing. Back to fwd, nothing. I didn't try to run anymore - hooked up the trolling motor fished for a few hours and went home. I thought the shift rod connector came loose. That's what it acted like. ***I had to replace the shift rod connector when I changed the water pump, etc yesterday prior to testing. I also flushed and filled the lower oil.***

Looking at it today (at home) shifting to fwd engages prop, so does rvs. Decided to check lower oil before pulling the lower off. White foamy milkshake... so I have a leak somewhere. The brand new drain/fill plugs and seals I doubt are leaking.

I haven't drained / strained the LU oil yet to see if I have any metal or surprises waiting for me... headed out there to do it now.

Would this be a good indicator of a bad clutch dog?

 

[rockyrude]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

The slipping out of gear could be a bad clutch dog, but the milkshake is a different story, you've got a bad seal someplace. Most common is the prop shaft seal.

 

[scuba_redneck]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

When the engine slipped out of gear, did it make a banging sound like you had hit something or does it just rev up losing speed? If it sounds like you are hitting something it will most likely be your clutch dog. If it just revs up you may have a spun hub on your prop. I had a '73 18 hp evinrude that had a worn clutch dog and forward gear. Long story short, I pulled off the skeg where the gears were housed and took them to a machine shop that I trust and had them mill the engagement surfaces with a carbide bit back to how they should look. Any kind of rounding on the edges of the "ears" will cause problems. If you find that it is your clutch dog and forward that is out of specs, I would highly recommend resurfacing and not buying new if at all possible. For a new clutch and forward you can look at spending $468.28 on parts alone from marineengine.com. Not the best solution if you ask me.

Now onto your other problem, the leaky LU. When you go to reseal, you will have a brass bushing that your shift rod goes through. Underneath this bushing is an o-ring. It NEEDS to be replaced. If you take a 5/16" diameter metal rod (home depot, lowes, etc) about 2-3 foot long, slightly grind a bevel on the end to 1/4". This will allow you to remove the brass bushing with some tapping. When you go to remove the bushing, you will insert the rod from the skeg side into the gearcase. It is imperitive that this rod is straight otherwise you will be in for a nightmare. Once your bushing is out, switch out your rubber and place the bushing back into place. For re-insertion, take either a large diameter bolt, socket, etc. to lightly tap the bushing to reseat it. Once it is flush with the top stop.

Your driveshaft also has a seal on the top of the gearcase, part #39. Take a seal puller or a flathead screwdriver and work your way around it to pull it out. It will be a PITA, and you will destroy it so don't worry about some damage to it. While you are pulling it do not damage the aluminum around where it sits. Like the shift rod bushing, tap the new seal back into place with a socket that is about the same diameter as the seal and apply some 3M 847 adhesive around the edges.

The spaghetti seal... This one can be a PITA also if you let it be. Make sure you have the 3M 847 sealant/Gasket adhesive handy because you will need it. Also make sure that you have cleaned both mating surfaces with acetone to remove all old gasket material. Cut the new spaghetti seal 1/16"-1/8" long when dry fitting. This will allow for shrinkage or any oops moments. When you go to reassemble, make sure you have all of your gears in their respectful places and the clutch dog cradle is in place. You will also have to apply a bead of the 847 where the spaghetti seal goes and also around the bolt holes to ensure that the water doesnt come in through the bolt holes. OMC was not on their A game when they engineered this LU. Bolts inside the seal? Hmmm...

Anywho, if you have any questions, just holler back at us. There are plenty of guys here that are highly knowledgeable about these motors. Good luck!

 

[Cap'n Chaos]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

scuba_redneck - excellent info.

There were no banging noises... it was as if I had shifted into neutral and revved to WOT.

I will inspect to see if all is well with the prop... I was thinking this was like my '62 and pin driven.

Anyhow, I drained the LU oil and there were no surprises, other than being contaminated by water there were no metal shavings or metal pieces...and as embarrassing as it is I had left one of the old seals in the drain plug... that may be the source of my "leak". Thats what I get for rushing to get done.

I'm going to refill the lower again this coming weekend and re-test. Would it be acceptable to use automotive type 80/90W gear oil for testing purposes only - $8 a quart for LU oil is a little pricey.

Could a poorly set shift rod be causing it to jump out of gear, it shifts smoothly with no force?

 

[lindy46]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Sounds like a spun prop hub to me.

 

[rockyrude]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

The extra seal could be your best news. You could use auto 80/90w, it just won't the anti-water additives marine lube has. Yes the shift rod adjustment could cause those problems also.

 

[stylesabu]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

drain plug seal isn't enough to cause a milkshake in that short of time. I would guess prop shaft seal, did you say you replaced water pump/ there are seals up there too.auto gear lube doesn't have anti-foaming agent.so ok for testing

 

[scuba_redneck]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

You can drop your lower unit to test your shift rod linkage fairly easily. All you will have to do is remove the oval-shaped plate from the starboard (right) side of the engine, take a socket and remove the bottom bolt from the brass linkage. Once the bottom bolt is out then proceed to removing the 4 bolts holding the lower to the main and the one on the rear of the lower. With these 5 bolts out and the shift rod disconnected you should be able to ease the lower off. Of it does not want to come apart you can tap on it with a 2x4 or soft faced mallet. The main thing here is to not warp the aluminum. Once the lower is off, take a pair of needle nose pliers and grab the shift rod still inside the exhaust housing through the oval hole and work the shift lever. If the shift lever is able to move without the pliers moving then you have found your problem.

I'm not too knowledgeable on spun props, however a new prop for your motor will run you approximately $100 for a Michigan wheel match 9x10. That should give you an idea of how much you should be willing to spend on rehabbing versus replacement.

As far as gear oil goes, Walmart brand oil by the quart is the cheapest option you have for testing. A pump sweetens the pot even more. I would recommend one If I had to redo my lower again. The 9 ounce tubes are a royal PITA.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Proper sequence can be everything....

You might want to hold off getting the wrenches out until AFTER you check for a spun prop. That is non-intrusive and i can't think of many things that would ruin your day more than dropping the lower unit and then finding out it was the prop all along.

Just make a mark on both the prop nut and the propeller body....make sure that they are aligned. run the motor and recheck the alignment. They should not move relative to each other.
If they have moved, the hub is slipping and you need to buy a new prop, or get the current one repaired if there is a shop nearby that can do it at a rational price.

If it has not slipped, try it a couple more times just to be sure.
If tests prove negative for a spun prop....then get out the tools....

 

[scuba_redneck]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

True, I reckon it would make more sense to check for the spun hub first. Either way the lower unit is going to have to come off for a reseal job. A crayon or something similar would make a good water proof mark. I remember when I was working as a janitor at a church back a couple of years ago and tried to get crayon drawing off of the inside of a toilet bowl. Long story short, crayon marks are VERY stubborn to get off. Just my $.02

 

[Cap'n Chaos]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Well I may just be incredibly lucky after-all... maybe I need to go and play the lottery.

I just pulled the prop and guess what I found... a broken prop drive pin! (Well to be exact, a broken piece of an old bolt that was used in place of the proper drive pin.. and remnants of an old rusty 16 penny nail that was used at some point as well.) Even though it was broken it felt as if everything was properly engaged in gear, how it managed to move the boat at all is amazing to me. I guess that I am not out of the woods yet, the PO could have hit something and broke the pin and busted the hub?
This prop is NOT like my 62, there is a slotted notch on the backside as well as a prop nut as opposed to a pin that goes all the way through and is secured by the rubber nose cone.

I've got to pull the flywheel and re-adjust the points as well as re-route the plug wires.... and I really need a picture of the parts (not sure what to call it, but it mechanically prevents you from starting with the throttle too far advanced) my manual only shows a profile view.

I am trying to get this ready so I can get down to New Bern, NC in time to get a striped bass while they are still in season.

Thanks again EVERYONE !

...to be continued...

 

[samo_ott]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Make sure you buy the proper drive/shear pin. I get mine at the dealer.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Well I may just be incredibly lucky after-all... maybe I need to go and play the lottery.

I just pulled the prop and guess what I found... a broken prop drive pin! (Well to be exact, a broken piece of an old bolt that was used in place of the proper drive pin.. and remnants of an old rusty 16 penny nail that was used at some point as well.) Even though it was broken it felt as if everything was properly engaged in gear, how it managed to move the boat at all is amazing to me. I guess that I am not out of the woods yet, the PO could have hit something and broke the pin and busted the hub?
This prop is NOT like my 62, there is a slotted notch on the backside as well as a prop nut as opposed to a pin that goes all the way through and is secured by the rubber nose cone.

I've got to pull the flywheel and re-adjust the points as well as re-route the plug wires.... and I really need a picture of the parts (not sure what to call it, but it mechanically prevents you from starting with the throttle too far advanced) my manual only shows a profile view.

I am trying to get this ready so I can get down to New Bern, NC in time to get a striped bass while they are still in season.

Thanks again EVERYONE !

...to be continued...

Find parts here....
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=qja3n706106400ijftftlca1i5&catalog_id=5&siteid=1

Not sure what you mean by the highlighted and underlined text. The '62 vintage OMCs still had a nut that was secured from loosening by a cotter pin....not a plain pin secured by a rubber nose cone.

 

[Cap'n Chaos]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

Tim - I was going from memory... and my memory is terrible.

So I go out to pull the flywheel and my bolts are too short... the threads are messed up in the flywheel... wonderful. Off to go get a tap and longer bolts. Hope this one comes off easier than my 6 HP. I used a "cat's paw" to steady the puller and it popped right off.

Points are re-set, wires are routed,need to clean magneto assembly (re-oil wick) and reassemble, torque, fill lower, install drive pin / cotter and go try again. I'll eventually get around to the lockout lever assembly.

Also - I've installed a lanyard kill switch but it didn't work right when I took it out last time, I ended up disconnecting it to get it to start... two posts on the back of it say "M"... it shouldn't matter which lead goes to which should it?

 

[Cap'n Chaos]

Re: First time out - slipped out of gear & water intrusion - 1972 Evinrude 18HP

I got her almost complete and got called into work... got back, finished up and ran her in a barrel.

(I never put it in gear but hopefully can test this week.)

Kill switch works like it should...

I discovered a water leak in the thermostat gasket area...

 

[webbrs]

I know this is an old thread but I need help in this area as well. I hope I am not hi jacking but some reply's refer to the prop shaft seal. Is this referring to the seal inside of the gearcase head assembly omc pt#0383757? I am doing my gearcase and see some very light wear (mostly shine) on the prop shaft where this seal rides. the seal feels pliable but is a direct line to allow water in. if it is good I don't want to spend the $150 to replace it unless needed. Even then I don't want to...

 

[HighTrim]

webbrs just start a brand new thread. Will cause less confusion. Who is charging you 150 bucks for a seal! lol

In the new ad, be sure to state your model motor as well so we can better help.

 

[racerone]

Well, I think $150 is for the complete assemly with the washer blocking the seal.---You just remove the washer and install the $4.99 seal !!

 

[GA_Boater]

I know this is an old thread but I need help in this area as well. I hope I am not hi jacking but some reply's refer to the prop shaft seal. Is this referring to the seal inside of the gearcase head assembly omc pt#0383757? I am doing my gearcase and see some very light wear (mostly shine) on the prop shaft where this seal rides. the seal feels pliable but is a direct line to allow water in. if it is good I don't want to spend the $150 to replace it unless needed. Even then I don't want to...

If you know it's an old thread, why hijack? Read the Help Tip on top of the page and start a thread of your own for best results. Thanks.

Closed.