1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

[Proselect]

I have cracked float chambers on both of my carbs. I just need some advice on what to do. I can find new plastic replacements for 85 bucks a piece. I was told that I should go with used metal ones instead. I can find sets of older carbs with metal bowls for around 50 bucks a pair. Will my high speed orifaces screw out of my old bowls and right into the metal ones? Will everything switch over, like the gaskets and floats? I read somewhere about having to change over the intermediate jets to a different size due to a difference in the metal vs the plastic bowls. I am not sure what to believe or which route to pursue. Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Stay away from the plastic ones. If you get the metal ones you may have to do some jet changing to get the same size you had in the plastic ones.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Ttt

 

[boobie]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Ttt ????????

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

To The Top........I want to see if anyone has any more info on changing over to metal bowls. I need to know if I would need to change any jet sizes or anything and what sizes I would need. Or, where to get such info.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

All OMC crossflow plastic bowls warp over time. Not a matter of if, but when. I've not heard of them cracking, but sounds like you are due for new bowls. If you order the original float bowl part number from Bombardier, they supercede to the aluminum type and that is what you will get. The new bowls are around $110 each and come with new drain plugs and orings. There are other main differences between the two bowls. They may come with new main jets, but you can reuse your old ones. The only problem is the mid jets in your old carb bowls. They won't fit in the replacement bowls. (different thread size) You will have to purchase 6 jets of the 8/32 thread size that are the same orfice throat size of the original mid jets. About $ 10 each. Take out one of your mid jets and take it to your dealer. Have him compare it vs. factory master listing of all jet sizes, (found in most newer Bombardier Service Manuals) then have them order new ones. The new bowls will work like new and the changeover is not at all difficult. If you shop around for used ones, you need to be careful which ones you buy. Even though they all look alike, they have internal machining differences.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Thanks emdsapmgr! I was told by a different forum to look for used ones. What scares me is what you talk about and that is the machining differences in them. From your advice I take it you just recommend biting the bullet and buying the new ones and getting it over with? I just want to make sure that I am getting aluminum and not the plastic. On the parts fiche it doesn't say what they are made of and I don't want to get stuck with some left over NOS plastic ones. Instead of ordering online maybe I will just call and order over the phone. Thanks for the info!

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Also which are the main jets and which are the mid jets? The main jets go in behind the bowl drain plugs and the mids come down from teh top? Also, there are two of each in each carb? That means I would need 4 of each, not 6? I have two carbs on my motor.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

You are correct. The mains are the ones behind the drain plugs. The mids are the ones you access from inside the top of the bowls. You need one of each type jet per cylinder. IE: you will need to buy 4 of the mid jets. The Bombardier factory folks are very knowledgeable about this type conversion. Probably moreso than some of their dealers. I don't think you will have any problem ordering the correct parts, but if you have any concerns, I'd call the Bombardier Customer Service hotline in Illinois 847-689-7090. They are very helpful. My concern with used bowls is that the early crossflow bowls never had mid jets-you just want to be sure you get the right bowls for your application.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Thanks for answering all my questions. I am just going to buy new so I know what I have. I figured if I go used off of ebay I may not get what I am looking for and wasting money. I might as well invest the cash into new with the piece of mind that I have the right stuff. I figure its cheaper than burning down a powerhead or something.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

I did some digging so far and found a good deal on new bowls. I found out the new part number was 0437214. These are the new aluminum ones. The guy could not verify whether the new bowls came with jets or not. He could also not give me a part number for the mid jets and if the main jets interchanged to the new bowls or not. He suggested I go on a forum, such as this, and ask for help from people who have done this before. He said there are manuals out that list the new bowl number along with the jet part numbers and such. So.......I am asking for help finding part numbers for what I need so I can order it. They do not give those jets away so I want to make sure I order the right ones the first time. Thanks to anyone who can help.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

437214 is the correct bowl. Used on V4 and V6 crossflow applications. You won't need the mains. Remove one of the mid jets and look at the number stamped on the side of the jet. It looks like a 1994 factory 112 carb has a "25C" mid jet in the bowl. If that is what you have, you will have to replace it with an 8/32 jet, part number: 323003. The 323003 should come stamped "25."

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Awesome! Thank you very much! Now if the snow would quit I could get the boat home! It has barely snowed all winter and now we get this off and on crap every other day it seems. Luckily its not much.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

One more question. I have done the link and sync myself before and the motor has always run great. I have never checked the timing though. I am cosidering taking the boat in to a shop to have the link, sync, and timing done just for piece of mind its all done right. Then I was told if I can do the link and sync that I should have no issues checking and setting timing. I do have the repair manual for this motor and the timing check is a little fuzzy to me. It says you have to plug in an evinrude "timing anylizer" or something?? What is this and do I need it? That is why I figured I would just take it in. Advice?

Also, the carb rebuild kit part number should be the same regardless of metal or plastic bowls, right?

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

All the V4/V6 crossflow carb kits supercede to just one part number. (they are all the same.) Your ignition system is not one that will permit connection to some type of analyzer. You need an engine with fuel injection (with a computer management system onboard) in order to interrogate the ignition system. It is easy to check the timing on that engine with a common timing light. Setting/checking the max advance on these crossflows is entirely another issue. Most folks are not able to set the max timing. The ignition systems on this engine will build up degrees of timing as the throttle advances. In other words, the timing will creep (upward) as much as 4 degrees over the rpm range. To truly compensate for this electronic phenomenon, you must set the max timing when the engine is running at 5000 rpm's. That means the engine must be under load (so it won't blow up) while setting the timing. When you have the engine at the dealer for adjusting the sync and link, have them set the timing for you. (ask them to confirm that they will actually run it a max rpm's in their test tank when the timing is set.) There is another way for owners to set the max timing that has been used by many on this board. It is an approximate method which will get you close. This procedure is known as the Joe Reeves procedure and is listed at the top of this website under the "top secret" file. You need to decide if "close" is good enough.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

Thanks once again for all your info and taking the time to help me out. I must have maybe read the wrong section on timing when I read the manual. I do have a timing light to check it. I will call around and get some prices on having the timing checked at full throttle. It's a toss up between saving some money and doing it myself or just taking it in and sit back and relax about it. I guess it depends what they soak me for it. First thing first is getting my carbs rebuilt and I can go from there.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

I got all my parts to rebuild my carbs and I went and got the boat from storage tonight and brought it home. I plan to work on the carbs tomorrow and thursday night. My problem is I did read the Joe Reeves method, but there are some things that are unclear. I am not sure of the rubber stop that I need to hold(or wire tight) full advanced. Is the cam arm or under the flywheel somewhere? I do have the repair manual but its for multiple motors and in PDF form so finding all the info is kind of a pain with each page having two columns. It still talks about needing something that you plug in to set the idle timing, and looks like it even on the carb models. That is where it seems fuzzy to me. I know with the Joe Reeves method you don't need to set idle timing. I also see the timing pointer is adjustable and I need to figure out how to make sure its where it is suppose to be. This would be a whole lot easier with some pictures. Once I know what has to be held in place while checking the timing the rest should be easy.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

I re-read the procedure again and I am thinking that maybe the older engines had the timer base up against an adjustment screw? Mine has the linkage with the jam nut and thumb wheel. Do just put it to wide open throttle and then adjust the thumb wheel to get the timing in spec? Also, how do I know if it has the fast start feature or not? It says to disconnect if its present.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

The 112 model does not have quickstart.

 

[Proselect]

Re: 1994 Evinrude 112 SPL Cracked Float Chambers

I got my carbs rebuilt. Boy, the aluminum float chambers are so much nicer and the drain plugs in them are such a better design. I got my link and sync done last night. That seems to get easier to do every time I do it. I timed it using the Joe Reeves method. When I checked it I was at 20 degrees. I set it at 24 because the spec is 28. I am currious to see if I will notice a difference with the 4 degrees of additional timing now or not. 4 new plugs topped off the project. It was too late to start it up last night so I am going to shoot for that right after work today. Then all I have to do is change the gear oil and charge the batteries. If it all goes well I will try to get on the water this weekend with it.